Chienmortbb

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1442953744' post='2870961'] Eek! Minor overhang! [/quote]Yup.Time to ditch the Valves?

[quote name='dave_bass5' timestamp='1453676345' post='2961782'] According to the website "The Two10 cab be used horizontally for maximum thump or vertically for increased clarity." I can confirm this as i noticed a slight difference when i tried it with mine. For me the best tone was horizontally, it did indeed have a b it more "retro" thump or low end. Also the Retro name has been dropped. Just thought i'd add that in case someone went looking for something called a Retro 210. @Mark. Leave now :-) [/quote]My post was a little too short to make my point properly. I was really thinking of stacking the cabinets and I seem to remember Alex said that horizontal stacking was OK.

Based on the South Coast too at Poole Dorset. Often in Bournemouth, Southampton, Romsey and Winchester areas. Will do basic setup and any electrics/electronics. Including action, intonation, pickup replacement, preamp design and/or installation, pots, caps Jack sockets and general wiring. Custom instrument cables and speaker/speakon leads. Still learning fretwork and finishing so can't do that at the moment.

The things that cause or contribute to the dead spot are: Bolt on neck Big 4 in line Headstocks A fender research programme concluded that to totally curr deadspot you had to go headless and through neck. Take a bow My Steinberger. Certainly carbon fibre/ graphite necks seem to improve or cure dead spots although Ststys necks seem to be better at it than Moses. Maybe adding carbon fibre rods in a wooden neck would also help. Maybe some luthiers can comment? One thing is for sure I am ordering new lighter strings immediately.

Please post the dreadnought too Andy. Hopefully I will learn more on there.

Nice to see some love for linden/lime. Basswood is the US name for it and it is pronounced like the fish not the instrument. It is good to hear of your experience especially getting the dings out. Keep up the good work.

The Biamp recommendation from Neutrik is that the lows go 1+/1- whereas the highs are on 2+/2-. Full range is on 1+/1-. One of the US makers (can't remember who) do not conform to this standard.

I think GK did not follow the speakon conventions. I may be wrong though.

[quote name='sunburstjazz1967' timestamp='1453578148' post='2960783'] Because they use much better quality speakers! [/quote]Wedge speakers tend to be full range and tend to be issued towards vocals. Not bad but far from ideal for bass.

Very sad if Picato close. I heard they supply Status and there is a big notice on their website saying they are having supply problems.

It is a beautiful instrument Andy. When you did the Hayman headstock refinish you had Evostik wood adhesive, on this build you are using Titebond. I notice that a lot of luthiers use Titebond. Is there any reason you choose Titebond over the others and which Titebond did you use on the build?

Andy you are a star. I am just about to finish my bass and this is brilliant. I have a couple of questions, 1. What grit do you sand the body to? 2. Can you varnish straight over wood dye or do you need to seal it first? BTW have you tried Rustins Plastic Coating? Thanks

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1453119832' post='2956445'] A P bass is a "one trick pony". But what a trick. It's the best in the book, which is why it is still the most played and recorded bass on the planet. A 2 pickup bass, such as the Jazz, has as many "tricks" as the player has the ability to find. There is nothing special or better in an active bass. It is only duplicating the controls on the pre amp but putting them on the bass, for convenience. [/quote]I know what you mean but with a passive setup the pickups output has the top end sucked out if it. The Volume, Tone pots and cap all suck tone. Technically the electronics on a passive bass is a variable low pass filter. With a pre you can get that sucked tone but you also drive the cable with a low impedance, lower noise and less lost tone. I like to set my amp to match the room and the onboard to change sound between songs. YMMV.

Catswhisker, Kent Armstrong and others will do rewinds,

[quote name='synthaside' timestamp='1453135652' post='2956730'] Sorry Chienmortbb... I dont agree with that in the slightest , with a quality loom , pots and control's which are far more usable my stock rubbish ... the tone control went from an on off button that seemed to turn on at about 50% and get even more nuts at 100% ... to a gradual control that add's brightness as i roll it. The 60 Hz hum that i'd get from my single coils is totally gone due to them being properly shielded .. and he offers whatever cap's you want ... so if you want a grease-bucket he can do it ... if you want vintage he can do that ... Yes of course upgrade the Pu's but the loom makes a huge difference too ... [/quote]I don't want to hijack the thread so I gave contacted KiOgan about his loom, Incidently you never had 60Hz hum/intrrference unless you live in the USA, Japan etc, In Europe we run on 50Hz,

If it is a matsumoku it is worth reviving.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1453132422' post='2956667'] Why? Have you tried one of KiOgons wiring looms? They make a heck of a difference to the sound of a bass - especially one that has cheap components as standard. [/quote]I have seen them and they look very well made and reletively easy to install. However wiring, pots and caps have little real effect on the sound of a bass UNLESS they are massively different from the normal values used on basses.

Audio Taper is the American way of saying logarithmic. So any "LOG" pot would do. CTS are overrated IMO, look for a bornes, especially the blue ones. Remember a pot is a pot and CTS were the brand Leo choose because they were locally available. There is no magic in CTS. I just realised you said mini. How small is that? 17mm 16mm 9mm?

Is it a two band or 3 band pre?

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1453034378' post='2955710'] If you want to change so much of the sound of the bass, why stay active? I'd look at replacing the pots and pickups and forget the preamp. [/quote]Surely going passive only makes it a one trick pony?

I was after a paulownia body as a second bass as my current Peavey Milestone weighs a ton. A bad neck (me not the bass) means Ditching the elephant ears and going for a 2L2R headstock. I have some Gotoh GB707s, not as light as Resolites or the Hipshot Ultralites but about half the weight of a traditional machine head, Anyway I bought a kit that met the spec (but with a basswood body) but there is so much fettleling to do I am regretting it and wish I had seen your post six weeks ago, Anyway thanks for the video even if it makes me regret my purchase.

Just taking the **** Fender Flats from my bass to replace them with Picatos. Only bought the Fenders as the Picatos we out of stock.

I thought Wizard had retired.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1452960921' post='2955122'] TBH you'd almost certainly get more benefit swapping the pots, jack, cap & wiring - for less than £40 [/quote]Unless the pots are noisy this would be a total waste of money,

I have Warwick Straplocks and have never had a problem.