Chienmortbb

I am sure all the above are great but I have used Rustins Burnishing Paste on cars, guitars, furniture for 20 years and found it superb. Whatever you use, will change the surface so I would also do a light polish/burnish all over to avoid "hotspots" Another old timer trick is toothpaste. It is slightly abrasive and can be used to burnish. I would be ready with the other tricks it toothpaste does it work out. Hell I wi try it on the a rather on my Peavey and reports back.

To be honest the Gotoh 201 is a great bridge and I believe an OEM one is fitted to my Fender Aerodyne. I would go for that but this bass will be a test bed, with new pickups etc being tried. That is the reason I was looking for quick restringing.

Thanks Andy.

Thanks chaps, you have saved me some money. Regarding straight edges, is a 600mm steel rule straight enough or do I need an ultra accurate straight edge?

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1452011511' post='2945507'] If the bass suits it and you don't mind a bit of routing, the two-piece Warwick bridges aren't expensive and have a quick-release tailpiece: [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/warwick_bridge_30118_4c.htm?ref=search_rslt_warwick+bridge_162645_2"]http://www.thomann.de/gb/warwick_bridge_30118_4c.htm?ref=search_rslt_warwick+bridge_162645_2[/url] [/quote]I have looked at ailpiece/bridge pairs but somehow dismissed them. I love the look of that and the fact that it has slot in stringing. Damn another choice. Seriously thanks for pointing that out.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1451938723' post='2944856'] Ok, to start with The cab can't produce sounds you can hear so you need to elevate it...which is kind of at odds for a light load. Or you carry another cab to do the same job..again, defeating the object or putting it on a flight case, makiing the whole deal heavier and/or a double carry/load. And that is without dealing with the sound [/quote]I am still struggling to see/hear your points unless you are a Barefaced Troll.

Surely a good reason to go P/P rather than P/J

I love the stuff Crimson Guitars sell for Luthiers, but they do not have a bass Notched Straight Edge and Guitars and Woods in Portugal do. I wonder if anyone has experience of their tools?

Kit was £75 although it is over £100 in some places. The BB001 is £13 and the BB404 is £18. Just noticed your signature. Sold my Thunder 1A many years ago when I went to 5ers. Now back on 4 strings and wish I had not sold it. My neck disagrees though.

The Entwistle Neos get a lot of likes. Not too dear and easy to movevonif you don't like them.

I realise that I am likely to get a lot of different answers to my questions but here goes. Cheap Kit bass and it will be used to try things. The stock bridge us a traditional BBOT but OK. However I would like to be able to remove the strings quickly when trying things. I am looking at the Sung Il BB001 and BB404. They both allow easy restringing and the BB404 allows the saddle to be locked in position. Has anyone used either and has anyone any other suggestions? Remember that I do not want to pay more from a bridge than the kit cost.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1451734628' post='2942864'] IMO the only true active pickup system is the Lightwave one. Everything else are standard passive coils and magnets with a pre-amp circuit buried in the epoxy covering. [/quote]We could get into semantics here as the Lightwave pickups use infra red light and have to have decoders and preamps. I should have been clearer in my post. I was asking whether the new Wilkinson Magnetic pickups are low impedance, have an integrated pre amp or are just "active" to the marketing department? If the above has confused you, I will try to explain: Magnetic pickups for passive guitars are relatively high output but also High Impedance. This makes them great receiving aerials/antennae. This means the amp you are using also has you have high impedance to avoid loading and higher loading will be noticeable at higher frequencies as a coil's impedance rises with frequency. In addition a typical amp input stage gets noisier as impedance rises. So if you use a lower output, lower impedance pickup you get low noise and can make up the low signal level by the use of low noise preamps.

No the retro range has one full range and one speaker that only operates on the lower frequencies per pair. So they can be used either way. Two 1-10s must be stacked veryically for best sound dispersion.

On the JHS site, there are a number of new Wilkinson bass pups many tarted as Active. However there is no info on them. Are they true actives like EMG, just low impedance or is Active a marketing term?

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1442999206' post='2871216'] Thanks, folks...it should be safely back with its owner tomorrow [/quote]Have you ever used the ready to iron veneers Andy?

As a general rule if it is made in the USA it is imperial if it is made in the far east it is metric. If I had to choose just one I would go 5mm on a sqeiar.

I am not clear where the caps are, in the mains side or secondary side but either have the same issue. Increasing the cap values will increase inrush current and is likely to cause problems elsewhere. The first thing to do is find out what revision your board is and then find out if it can be updated to the latest revision. Contact Ampeg as it was a manufacturing defect and they may/should help even though you did not buy it here. Finally or maybe firstly, check the labels to ensure it was designed to work on 230V 50Hz

As a semi-retired electronics engineer, I often give advice in Amps And Cabs but I am overwhelmed by the help and support here thank you everyone. As I have it I will start with the Lemon Oil and as I do not like a gloss neck I will leave the Tru Oil alone. I had a bad experience with Liberon stains once and no help from the company. So I tend to steer clear of them now. Having read up on a few of them now I will try Danish Oil for the back of the neck. Thanks.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1451228527' post='2938928'] I've been using raw linseed oil (from a bottle that must be about 35 years old) and it's been fine. [/quote] I am in turm(oil) now. Sorry should have sent that one to the Xmas Cracker Companies. Sounds like either oil would be good. I tried wetting the finger and it looked much more like a rosewood board. I suspect is has become dry and that has exagerated the grain. If lemon oil is mixed with mineral oil, how would that mix with a vegetable oil like linseed? Finally for now, what is the best finish for the maple on the back of the neck? BTW I am so jealous that you have the Westone fretted/fretless and a WEM Westminster.

Thank you Karl. Is any brand better than the others? I usually use Rustins products and they do Raw and Boiled Linseed Oil.

Thanks I will try those first then. For oil I have Dunlop Lemon Oil. Is that OK?

Can't afford to order my ideal bass and a bad neck means I need to lose weight from the body and neck of the bass so I have gone for a kit that is close to my ideal layout and weight. The neck is maple with a rosewood (or faux rosewood) fretboard and although fretted and level is not smooth. There are a few small but natural pits and the grain is quite pronounced when you rub a nail across the neck. I am no luthier so I look online and there seems little info about rosewood finishing around. I think I need to grain fill and possibly stain to get a consistant colour but I am not sure whether the grain will take a stain or look odd or how to sand the whole neck ( including frets) afterwards. Then do I put a protective finish on? All help and comments appreciated (well most anyway).

This really is silly, grown men and women lusting after little cabinets. ......... What is the price and the lead time?

Many Amps in those days had the turn on/off thump. It is caused by one of the voltage rails rising or falling faster than the other. Contrary to what many people say it does not damage the speaker. The noise probanly comes from the controls. They need to be cleaned with a good switch cleaner, preferably deoxit. It is the most expensive but it is the only one that works long term. The other alternative is to replace the control pots themselves. If you can use conductive plastic ones as the last much longer. Of course these are general statements and may not apply to your amp. If anyone has precise knowledge of the Commando, please chip in,

Funny I used Roto 66s for years with no problem then fitted Picato Half rounds to my Aerodyne. ...great. So I decided to put Picato flats on my Peavey but local dealer (Absolute Music) were out of stock so I took some Fender flats. Five days after I bought them the E was like a perished rubber band. So yes you do get duff strings so report it to the shop or manufacturer or both. Of course with Rotos and Picatos it helps that get are UK companies.