Chienmortbb

Alex mine had a Celestion speaker in but they did change over the years. Went from a vinyl covering to a green carpet then added the tweeter. Also you have to look at what else was around at the time. The other 80-150 combos were pants.

The 130 Watt one was not surprisingly called the BLX 130. Almost identical but had two more MOSFETs in the amp that allowed it to drive another cab. They seem to be like marmite as you either love them or hate them. But two if those stacked would rock my world. Heavy, of course it had a lot more wood than most 10" cabs but it was the mutt's nuts.The BLX was short for what the advert suggests. It was so called because it was the Dog's BLX. You may not like the sound but that Trace pure and MOSFETs plus the EQ balance control. The only amp I have really regretted selling. I honestly think it was the look of them that put people off.

You mention that Fane changed (presumably discontinued) the drivers that are in your 2x10, What were those?

Just seen the note at the bottom of the page. They charge 20% UK VAT but they pay VAT in Germany, 19%. Not much difference but a nice little earner when they sell to the UK?

There is a 5er in my basket anyone interested?

Thanks for that Phil. It looks like you just love experimenting and so the 1x12 is really a labour of love and a gift to the BC community. You said a while back that you were working on a 2x10 design for after the 1x12. Has the 1x15 Delatite superseded that? Also sent a PM.

[quote name='Rocker' timestamp='1449668891' post='2925778'] Any opinions on the Roland Cube 80 Bass amp guys? Thanks. [/quote]The Rolands have a good reputation and always go for good money. Whatever you but try to get one that has the ability to power an extension cabinet. Then if you like it you just have to add another cabinet for louder gigs. Some combos don't and some disconnect the internal speaker when you connect another cab. Most will double their power (and only give their quoted output) when an extension speaker is connected. My second and third rigs were a Trace Elliot BLX130* and an Ashdown MAG300 115. The rated power of each was only achieved (130w for the BLX and 307w for the MAG) when a second cabinet was connected. *Called the BLX because it was the Dog's BLX

Phil, are you still using the cab/cabs for gigging and what cabinet or cabinets have they replaced?

Fender Aerodyne Jazz, Jazz neck P/J just roll off the J Pup.

[quote name='Kevin Dean' timestamp='1449664607' post='2925692'] That's what I did I loved my sound from where I normally stand but find the lower tones not projecting out very well . [/quote]Are you stacking vertically? If you stack side by side as if it were a 4x10, you will lose more low frequencies further from the stage. if you stack so the drivers are one above the other, they will project the lows further.

So you have a choice, a valve amp or some type of eq/effects unit. Don't take much notice of the Behringer knockers in tis case. The BDI21 aims to get the mpeg sound from an analogue pedal. So does the Tech21 but they are not clones, just pedals with similar aims and model numbers (got to love Behringer Marketing). A big ol valve amp will do the trick (if it is an Ampeg) but valve amps are not all the same. whether when driven normally or overdriven. Take care not to waste your money. Also remember that many Ampegs (SVT 3 Pro for example) have solid state power amps, ironic when you think that many think the valve output stage gives the "valve sound". So if you only need the Ampeg sound, buy an Ampeg. If not the Tech21 or Behringer pedals give you the flexibility.

You could add the old Pre EB MM two band preamp after the Blend control. That was part of the MM sound. I could probably get some knocked up if anyone is interested.

Really tempted by that Black P but as I am about o sell my Peavey Black P Bass copy it would be a waste. I must stop watching his thread.....but I probably won't.

I have looked at the headless basses and the ML Kits. Some of those are really nice. Their homepage is [url="http://www.gitarre-bestellen.de"]http://www.gitarre-bestellen.de[/url] Use google translate Most of the headless basses do not have a headstock but have really heavy metalwork and a small body so are still neck heavy. They are also heavier than the standard basses. Incidentally the UK Supplies kit is also sold by ML but at a higher price. They claim an ash boy but it is basswood. As for buying a squier, I have a Peavey Milestone the has a great neck but a "laminated" body. that is plywood. I did think about pimping it but the neck is not standard Fender width at the body end and it would mean some work to make it fit. I will eventually make my own but for now..

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1448895807' post='2918936'] I have a question about tube ports and their lengths. Am I right in assuming that standard downpipe means the 68mm stuff? I've noticed that winISD and a couple of online calculators come up with quite different lengths than the ones used in the prototype cab, quoted below. The exact figure varies depending on the end correction selected (I used "one end flanged"), but WinISD is suggesting a length of 298mm for a 50Hz tuning in 50l, rather than 190mm. That's with four 68mm diameter ports. I'm trying to figure out if I've missed something in the process. [/quote]II m sure that Phil, Stevie or Lawrence to answer this in full but in my view, WinISD and the other speaker design packages all aim for HiFi performance. In WinISD Pro, you can plot many things including the frequency response (low end extension), cone excursion and the velocity of the air in the port. The port size, affects all of theses and you can tweak for all these even though they are not optimal (optimal for HiFi). If you allow the cone to go slightly over its nominal max travel (XMax) and accept that there may be a little chuff at full power, you can get a smaller cabinet with more manageable port sizes. Why can we make these compromises? The Beyma Speaker has a thermal power rating of 350 wats. Most 500 Watt amps have an 8 Ohm power output of 250 watts so there is already a safety margin. Of course if you use a bigger amp the speaker may struggle but then maybe this is the wrong cabinet design for you. Finally if you are hitting 350W the small chuff will be lost in the mix anyway. This compromise is tiny compared to most commercial designs (Barefaced, TKS and other Boutique makers excepted). Of course is you do not use a bass reflex/ported cabinet design (i.e. most of Bill Fitzmaurice's designs) then these statements are invalid

[quote name='PaulGibsonBass' timestamp='1448230362' post='2913879'] I've flirted on and off with compression for years. I think I've finally realised that I can live without it. When I joined my current band I gave it another go, thinking it might even out the sound but I find that using my overdrive pedal on a very low drive setting gives me the even sound I wanted. Maybe I wasn't using / understanding it properly but I have neither the time nor inclination for endless tweaking and fiddling. So my compressor is off the pedalboard and on eBay. [/quote]Overdrive, fuzz etc all act as crude compressors when used sparingly. It seems that you are using your Overdrive that way

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1448389719' post='2915045'] I refuse to believe that this band could sound anything but ****! [/quote]I have to listen to Leonard Cohen to cheer me up after hearing the Smiths

I would like to build my own bass eventually but I am thinking of getting a kit bass first to practice on first. I know some will say buy a project guitar and upgrade it. I have a Peavey Milestone that I could use for the but having seen a video of how Crimson Guitars "pimped" a kit Telecaster, I want to do something similar. So the kit I like is the [url="http://www.ukmusicsupplies.co.uk/Shop.aspx?id=299&t=diy.kit.bass.al209.great.for.student.and.luthier.projects&r=&rb=0&ret=?p=guitar.diy.kits"]AL209 from UK Music Supplies[/url]. It is a P/J, has a light (Linden or Basswood) body and a 2L2R headstock. I have a neck problem so light weight and no neck dive is important. Basswood body plus 2L2R helps this. So has anyone built this or any of their other kits. Are there any others that I should consider? They have an ash bodied P and J kit for the same price but I am thinking they would be too heavy. Any advice on finishing? Basswood is a bit bland, grain and colour wise, so would a solid colour be best? Further info. The plan is to fit Entwistle Pickups (not sure whether to go ceramic or neo) replace the pots, adding an on board preamp. The Machine heads will be replaced by a set of Gotoh GB 707s unless the stock ones are good enough and light enough. The Gotohs are Cosmo Black (smoked chrome) so I would also need to replace the bridge in that case.

[quote name='petetexas' timestamp='1447846920' post='2910860'] Added to above................. You must remember that not all parts will just sit in the correct place, for example..................the neck has to be aligned centrally to body . Just by putting the neck in the neck pocket , does not always mean that it is central to the body . What I did , was to drill and fix one of the mounting screws through the neck plate , and tightened up ( so there was still a slight ammount of "swing" movement of the neck relative to body ) Then using a 24inch steel ruler , laying down one side of the neck to the other , I aligned each edge of neck to pup cut outs , and got it central, before carefully turning over and drilling the remaining three . I actually scribed the lines next to the neck pup cut out , for any future removal / re assembly ( these lines are hidden under scratchplate ). Another point to remember is that bridge not only being central but in correct position for the 34inch scale to the saddles , allowing for intonation movement - I also had to shim the neck pocket , with a piece of .010 thick ash, to get the angle of strings relative to body for a good action . But as I said before ..............THINK THINGS THROUGH - MEASURE AND ALIGN , MEASURE AND ALIGN , MEASURE AND ALIGN before drilling ! Its really enjoyable to see the bass taking shape . Any questions , just ask me Pete [/quote] Did you do an angled shim most or all the length of the neck pocket or just a packing piece at the body end?

[quote name='bonzodog' timestamp='1447106819' post='2905015'] I may not have explained my question very well. What I mean is for example, if I was looking to buy a new bass head and looked at for instance the TC Electronics BH250 against the BH550, then if I look at reviews for both, there are lots of questions as to whether the BH250 is loud enough, and some say possibly not, where as the BH550 will be loud enough but also quiet enough to use at home. So what is the point in risking buying the BH250 if its not loud enough when its the same size, weight etc ? Is it just down to price. [/quote]Now you have also opened the TC "magic watts" can of worms. "

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1444122336' post='2880394'] Take off 1 tuner (including the bushing) and weigh it. Then you can compare with the Hipshot weights. Ibby tuners are quite light anyway, they may not be light enough to make a difference you want to pay for. On a trad bass with big plate tuners swapping to Ultralites can save half a pound on a 5 string! [/quote]Because of the lever effect the 1/2 pound is much heavier.

If the LG is like the Superfly it has two totally separate amps powered by the same power supply. Each amp is 4 ohm capable so running the 2 cabs in parallel from one amp. The Superfly uses an amp/power module from Alto but I suspect a compete module would be difficult to get. If one amp is blown but the other is OK, it may be easy to fault find However many class D amps may be small enough to be retrofitted into the LG if needed.

Power conditioners c[size=4]ame from the USA and were useful there because the [/size]internal[size=4] mains wiring was often aluminium rather [/size]than[size=4] the copper we use in the UK. This led to a lot of poor mains connections and really noisy mains. The copper over here did not have that [/size]problem[size=4] and even switch mode power supply noise is easily handled by most pieces of kit.[/size] [size=4]Most noise comes as RFI through the air and a power conditioner will not solve that.[/size]

I seem to remember reading about a Fender research project that aimed to remove the dead spot. The result was that a headless bass with a though neck was the best and second best was a 2L2R headstock with a through neck. Neither of these were acceptable for aesthetic reasons at Fender so we live with the dead spot. I gave real credence to Ned Steinberger's work though.

One of the things that has changed over the years is the drivers in loudspeakers. Fane, Goodmans, Celestial, Jensen all made high efficiency speakers and a 50 watt head would create a lot of noise but little bottom end. A 15" Bass Guitar speaker would have a rated efficiency of over 100dB. Most of the drivers we use now are 96dB at best. I know some of the Eminence drivers claim 100dB or more but that is marketing peaks. Today many drivers are around 94dB and that old 50 watt baseman would need to be 200W to get the same perceived old skool volume. Add marketing watts and you can see why we now need 900 or 1000. The truth is that a true 200W amp will do most gigs a unless its a Bugera. 300W will more than you need. If you use an Acme cab however you may need a lot more By the way my spell checker replaces Bugera with Bugbear #justsaying