Chienmortbb

Neutrik recommend +1 -1 for normal full range output or the low frequencies in a bi-amped system. +2-2 connections are to be used for the MF/HF The suggestions for wiring ( there is no real standard) are found in the Neutrik document found here http://www.neutrik.co.uk/zoolu-website/media/download/66/speakON+Wiring+Suggestion

One of the early posters was right. The English name for it is Linden, the Anerican name is basswood (pronounced like the fish not the instrument). I now only have Linden basses because of the weight.

Bassists against Brexit?

Is it wise to use wire wool on a bass with magnetic pickups?

Sorry duplicate post.

I believe that many Far East Fenders have machine heads from two makers , Ping and s name I cannot remember. Although the machine heads fitted to the Aerodyne are OK, they are not to Gotoh's usual standard. I am fitting the GB350 res-o-lites but they are not traditional elephant ears.

I have to agree with you and will try to sell as s whole bass. Ironically with a plywood body, the money I get will be peanuts but it is a really good bass. Easy to play, good sound, much better than most Squiers. I think I might just hide it in the garage, and tell SWMBO I had to give it away,

It seems to me that it is often more rewarding financially to break a bass for spares, Even reletively expensive basses like Fender Aerodyne are sold in the USA for spares. I suppose people will do anything to make more money but it feels wrong. I will be selling my cheap Peavey Milestone V soon manly as Mrs Chienmort has imposed a one out, one in policy. Is it worth selling as a whole bass or selling the neck, machine heads, pickup etc separately.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1443476233' post='2875155'] <really pedantic> I believe he also owned an 8 string bass. </really pedantic> [/quote] I bet it was a twin neck with a drop D tuning on one!

It is a Class A high impedance / low impedance buffer. Priced at just short of £200. The real question is why you would need one?

Surely one of the Gotoh ranges would be good. Are you going lightweight? If so something in Gotohs Resolites range would be good,

Let me know if it falls through.

Has this gone?

I bought some Gotoh GB707 machine heads last year and was going to put them on my Fender Aerodyne. I also just bought some GB350 ResOLites and realised they were different. The GB707s are 4 in line Right Tuners, that is for a left hand bass. My immediate thought was to sell them but I am wondering what would be the issues with using the tubers the wrong way around. I would have to modify the headstock to use them so I am not keen to suck it and see. Any opinions appreciated.

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1457353517' post='2997578'] Inside a bass CTS or Alpha are perfectly fine IMO, you could pay more for something slightly more fancy, but then take a look inside your FX pedals and amp - all of the pots there are either equivalent or worse than CTS/Alpha IME. [/quote]Not in my amp they ain't. However I am building it.

[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1457432653' post='2998397'] yes - definitely avoid electrolytics where not necessary. On non-electrolytics - the costs of 20% vs 10% overlap to a large extent depending on the manufacturer / supplier at any particular time. It's pretty much a commodity market. Rather than the tolerance I'd be more concerned about voltage and temperature stability. The 20% types are generally (though not exclusively) likely to have lower quality dielectrics -- but it means they can get more capacitance into a smaller volume. Things do get expensive (in capacitor terms) if you go for 5% tolerance. I was really thinking more about people fitting their own capacitors / pots so the component cost is a fraction of what you'd end up paying for the same component fitted to a new bass (although you may have to buy a few of the capacitors as they may not be available singly). As an example for a 100n Cap' I'd likely go for: [url="http://cpc.farnell.com/wima/mkp2d031001f00kssd/capacitor-10-100nf-100v-mkp2/dp/CA08109"]http://cpc.farnell.c...mkp2/dp/CA08109[/url] I know it has pcb type legs which might not be the most convenient but probably worth it for the capacitor characteristics. Glue it to the back of the pot and solder / wire wrap ! [/quote]You are right, that cap you quote is a Wima and an excellent cap. It will be more expensive than some maker's 5% caps as Wima have achieved mythical status in audiophile circles.

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1457397810' post='2998201'] Except of course that they don't use electrolytics in the bog standard passive circuits we're talking about here. [/quote]I was not talking about electrolytic capacitors. Ceramic are rarely lower than 20%, Film caps are available from 20% down to 2%. However if you are mass producing and buying in the 1000s, even 5p is worth saving. Save 5p on each cap and pot and that can be 20-30p. On a run of 1000 basses that is £200-300.

To be honest the material is almost irrelevant. If there is any binding on the strings, tuning will be erratic. Say your luthier cut the G slot to 42 to accommodate a 40 thou string and you use a 45 thou G then it will probably bind. I would pay for full setup and take the luthier's advice on what needs doing. Where are you based?