Chienmortbb

[quote name='synthaside' timestamp='1453135652' post='2956730'] Sorry Chienmortbb... I dont agree with that in the slightest , with a quality loom , pots and control's which are far more usable my stock rubbish ... the tone control went from an on off button that seemed to turn on at about 50% and get even more nuts at 100% ... to a gradual control that add's brightness as i roll it. The 60 Hz hum that i'd get from my single coils is totally gone due to them being properly shielded .. and he offers whatever cap's you want ... so if you want a grease-bucket he can do it ... if you want vintage he can do that ... Yes of course upgrade the Pu's but the loom makes a huge difference too ... [/quote]I don't want to hijack the thread so I gave contacted KiOgan about his loom, Incidently you never had 60Hz hum/intrrference unless you live in the USA, Japan etc, In Europe we run on 50Hz,

If it is a matsumoku it is worth reviving.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1453132422' post='2956667'] Why? Have you tried one of KiOgons wiring looms? They make a heck of a difference to the sound of a bass - especially one that has cheap components as standard. [/quote]I have seen them and they look very well made and reletively easy to install. However wiring, pots and caps have little real effect on the sound of a bass UNLESS they are massively different from the normal values used on basses.

Audio Taper is the American way of saying logarithmic. So any "LOG" pot would do. CTS are overrated IMO, look for a bornes, especially the blue ones. Remember a pot is a pot and CTS were the brand Leo choose because they were locally available. There is no magic in CTS. I just realised you said mini. How small is that? 17mm 16mm 9mm?

Is it a two band or 3 band pre?

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1453034378' post='2955710'] If you want to change so much of the sound of the bass, why stay active? I'd look at replacing the pots and pickups and forget the preamp. [/quote]Surely going passive only makes it a one trick pony?

I was after a paulownia body as a second bass as my current Peavey Milestone weighs a ton. A bad neck (me not the bass) means Ditching the elephant ears and going for a 2L2R headstock. I have some Gotoh GB707s, not as light as Resolites or the Hipshot Ultralites but about half the weight of a traditional machine head, Anyway I bought a kit that met the spec (but with a basswood body) but there is so much fettleling to do I am regretting it and wish I had seen your post six weeks ago, Anyway thanks for the video even if it makes me regret my purchase.

Just taking the **** Fender Flats from my bass to replace them with Picatos. Only bought the Fenders as the Picatos we out of stock.

I thought Wizard had retired.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1452960921' post='2955122'] TBH you'd almost certainly get more benefit swapping the pots, jack, cap & wiring - for less than £40 [/quote]Unless the pots are noisy this would be a total waste of money,

I have Warwick Straplocks and have never had a problem.

I am sure all the above are great but I have used Rustins Burnishing Paste on cars, guitars, furniture for 20 years and found it superb. Whatever you use, will change the surface so I would also do a light polish/burnish all over to avoid "hotspots" Another old timer trick is toothpaste. It is slightly abrasive and can be used to burnish. I would be ready with the other tricks it toothpaste does it work out. Hell I wi try it on the a rather on my Peavey and reports back.

To be honest the Gotoh 201 is a great bridge and I believe an OEM one is fitted to my Fender Aerodyne. I would go for that but this bass will be a test bed, with new pickups etc being tried. That is the reason I was looking for quick restringing.

Thanks Andy.

Thanks chaps, you have saved me some money. Regarding straight edges, is a 600mm steel rule straight enough or do I need an ultra accurate straight edge?

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1452011511' post='2945507'] If the bass suits it and you don't mind a bit of routing, the two-piece Warwick bridges aren't expensive and have a quick-release tailpiece: [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/warwick_bridge_30118_4c.htm?ref=search_rslt_warwick+bridge_162645_2"]http://www.thomann.de/gb/warwick_bridge_30118_4c.htm?ref=search_rslt_warwick+bridge_162645_2[/url] [/quote]I have looked at ailpiece/bridge pairs but somehow dismissed them. I love the look of that and the fact that it has slot in stringing. Damn another choice. Seriously thanks for pointing that out.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1451938723' post='2944856'] Ok, to start with The cab can't produce sounds you can hear so you need to elevate it...which is kind of at odds for a light load. Or you carry another cab to do the same job..again, defeating the object or putting it on a flight case, makiing the whole deal heavier and/or a double carry/load. And that is without dealing with the sound [/quote]I am still struggling to see/hear your points unless you are a Barefaced Troll.

Surely a good reason to go P/P rather than P/J

I love the stuff Crimson Guitars sell for Luthiers, but they do not have a bass Notched Straight Edge and Guitars and Woods in Portugal do. I wonder if anyone has experience of their tools?

Kit was £75 although it is over £100 in some places. The BB001 is £13 and the BB404 is £18. Just noticed your signature. Sold my Thunder 1A many years ago when I went to 5ers. Now back on 4 strings and wish I had not sold it. My neck disagrees though.

The Entwistle Neos get a lot of likes. Not too dear and easy to movevonif you don't like them.

I realise that I am likely to get a lot of different answers to my questions but here goes. Cheap Kit bass and it will be used to try things. The stock bridge us a traditional BBOT but OK. However I would like to be able to remove the strings quickly when trying things. I am looking at the Sung Il BB001 and BB404. They both allow easy restringing and the BB404 allows the saddle to be locked in position. Has anyone used either and has anyone any other suggestions? Remember that I do not want to pay more from a bridge than the kit cost.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1451734628' post='2942864'] IMO the only true active pickup system is the Lightwave one. Everything else are standard passive coils and magnets with a pre-amp circuit buried in the epoxy covering. [/quote]We could get into semantics here as the Lightwave pickups use infra red light and have to have decoders and preamps. I should have been clearer in my post. I was asking whether the new Wilkinson Magnetic pickups are low impedance, have an integrated pre amp or are just "active" to the marketing department? If the above has confused you, I will try to explain: Magnetic pickups for passive guitars are relatively high output but also High Impedance. This makes them great receiving aerials/antennae. This means the amp you are using also has you have high impedance to avoid loading and higher loading will be noticeable at higher frequencies as a coil's impedance rises with frequency. In addition a typical amp input stage gets noisier as impedance rises. So if you use a lower output, lower impedance pickup you get low noise and can make up the low signal level by the use of low noise preamps.

No the retro range has one full range and one speaker that only operates on the lower frequencies per pair. So they can be used either way. Two 1-10s must be stacked veryically for best sound dispersion.

On the JHS site, there are a number of new Wilkinson bass pups many tarted as Active. However there is no info on them. Are they true actives like EMG, just low impedance or is Active a marketing term?