Chienmortbb

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1442999206' post='2871216'] Thanks, folks...it should be safely back with its owner tomorrow [/quote]Have you ever used the ready to iron veneers Andy?

As a general rule if it is made in the USA it is imperial if it is made in the far east it is metric. If I had to choose just one I would go 5mm on a sqeiar.

I am not clear where the caps are, in the mains side or secondary side but either have the same issue. Increasing the cap values will increase inrush current and is likely to cause problems elsewhere. The first thing to do is find out what revision your board is and then find out if it can be updated to the latest revision. Contact Ampeg as it was a manufacturing defect and they may/should help even though you did not buy it here. Finally or maybe firstly, check the labels to ensure it was designed to work on 230V 50Hz

As a semi-retired electronics engineer, I often give advice in Amps And Cabs but I am overwhelmed by the help and support here thank you everyone. As I have it I will start with the Lemon Oil and as I do not like a gloss neck I will leave the Tru Oil alone. I had a bad experience with Liberon stains once and no help from the company. So I tend to steer clear of them now. Having read up on a few of them now I will try Danish Oil for the back of the neck. Thanks.

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1451228527' post='2938928'] I've been using raw linseed oil (from a bottle that must be about 35 years old) and it's been fine. [/quote] I am in turm(oil) now. Sorry should have sent that one to the Xmas Cracker Companies. Sounds like either oil would be good. I tried wetting the finger and it looked much more like a rosewood board. I suspect is has become dry and that has exagerated the grain. If lemon oil is mixed with mineral oil, how would that mix with a vegetable oil like linseed? Finally for now, what is the best finish for the maple on the back of the neck? BTW I am so jealous that you have the Westone fretted/fretless and a WEM Westminster.

Thank you Karl. Is any brand better than the others? I usually use Rustins products and they do Raw and Boiled Linseed Oil.

Thanks I will try those first then. For oil I have Dunlop Lemon Oil. Is that OK?

Can't afford to order my ideal bass and a bad neck means I need to lose weight from the body and neck of the bass so I have gone for a kit that is close to my ideal layout and weight. The neck is maple with a rosewood (or faux rosewood) fretboard and although fretted and level is not smooth. There are a few small but natural pits and the grain is quite pronounced when you rub a nail across the neck. I am no luthier so I look online and there seems little info about rosewood finishing around. I think I need to grain fill and possibly stain to get a consistant colour but I am not sure whether the grain will take a stain or look odd or how to sand the whole neck ( including frets) afterwards. Then do I put a protective finish on? All help and comments appreciated (well most anyway).

This really is silly, grown men and women lusting after little cabinets. ......... What is the price and the lead time?

Many Amps in those days had the turn on/off thump. It is caused by one of the voltage rails rising or falling faster than the other. Contrary to what many people say it does not damage the speaker. The noise probanly comes from the controls. They need to be cleaned with a good switch cleaner, preferably deoxit. It is the most expensive but it is the only one that works long term. The other alternative is to replace the control pots themselves. If you can use conductive plastic ones as the last much longer. Of course these are general statements and may not apply to your amp. If anyone has precise knowledge of the Commando, please chip in,

Funny I used Roto 66s for years with no problem then fitted Picato Half rounds to my Aerodyne. ...great. So I decided to put Picato flats on my Peavey but local dealer (Absolute Music) were out of stock so I took some Fender flats. Five days after I bought them the E was like a perished rubber band. So yes you do get duff strings so report it to the shop or manufacturer or both. Of course with Rotos and Picatos it helps that get are UK companies.

Alex mine had a Celestion speaker in but they did change over the years. Went from a vinyl covering to a green carpet then added the tweeter. Also you have to look at what else was around at the time. The other 80-150 combos were pants.

The 130 Watt one was not surprisingly called the BLX 130. Almost identical but had two more MOSFETs in the amp that allowed it to drive another cab. They seem to be like marmite as you either love them or hate them. But two if those stacked would rock my world. Heavy, of course it had a lot more wood than most 10" cabs but it was the mutt's nuts.The BLX was short for what the advert suggests. It was so called because it was the Dog's BLX. You may not like the sound but that Trace pure and MOSFETs plus the EQ balance control. The only amp I have really regretted selling. I honestly think it was the look of them that put people off.

You mention that Fane changed (presumably discontinued) the drivers that are in your 2x10, What were those?

Just seen the note at the bottom of the page. They charge 20% UK VAT but they pay VAT in Germany, 19%. Not much difference but a nice little earner when they sell to the UK?

There is a 5er in my basket anyone interested?

Thanks for that Phil. It looks like you just love experimenting and so the 1x12 is really a labour of love and a gift to the BC community. You said a while back that you were working on a 2x10 design for after the 1x12. Has the 1x15 Delatite superseded that? Also sent a PM.

[quote name='Rocker' timestamp='1449668891' post='2925778'] Any opinions on the Roland Cube 80 Bass amp guys? Thanks. [/quote]The Rolands have a good reputation and always go for good money. Whatever you but try to get one that has the ability to power an extension cabinet. Then if you like it you just have to add another cabinet for louder gigs. Some combos don't and some disconnect the internal speaker when you connect another cab. Most will double their power (and only give their quoted output) when an extension speaker is connected. My second and third rigs were a Trace Elliot BLX130* and an Ashdown MAG300 115. The rated power of each was only achieved (130w for the BLX and 307w for the MAG) when a second cabinet was connected. *Called the BLX because it was the Dog's BLX

Phil, are you still using the cab/cabs for gigging and what cabinet or cabinets have they replaced?

Fender Aerodyne Jazz, Jazz neck P/J just roll off the J Pup.

[quote name='Kevin Dean' timestamp='1449664607' post='2925692'] That's what I did I loved my sound from where I normally stand but find the lower tones not projecting out very well . [/quote]Are you stacking vertically? If you stack side by side as if it were a 4x10, you will lose more low frequencies further from the stage. if you stack so the drivers are one above the other, they will project the lows further.

So you have a choice, a valve amp or some type of eq/effects unit. Don't take much notice of the Behringer knockers in tis case. The BDI21 aims to get the mpeg sound from an analogue pedal. So does the Tech21 but they are not clones, just pedals with similar aims and model numbers (got to love Behringer Marketing). A big ol valve amp will do the trick (if it is an Ampeg) but valve amps are not all the same. whether when driven normally or overdriven. Take care not to waste your money. Also remember that many Ampegs (SVT 3 Pro for example) have solid state power amps, ironic when you think that many think the valve output stage gives the "valve sound". So if you only need the Ampeg sound, buy an Ampeg. If not the Tech21 or Behringer pedals give you the flexibility.

You could add the old Pre EB MM two band preamp after the Blend control. That was part of the MM sound. I could probably get some knocked up if anyone is interested.

Really tempted by that Black P but as I am about o sell my Peavey Black P Bass copy it would be a waste. I must stop watching his thread.....but I probably won't.

I have looked at the headless basses and the ML Kits. Some of those are really nice. Their homepage is [url="http://www.gitarre-bestellen.de"]http://www.gitarre-bestellen.de[/url] Use google translate Most of the headless basses do not have a headstock but have really heavy metalwork and a small body so are still neck heavy. They are also heavier than the standard basses. Incidentally the UK Supplies kit is also sold by ML but at a higher price. They claim an ash boy but it is basswood. As for buying a squier, I have a Peavey Milestone the has a great neck but a "laminated" body. that is plywood. I did think about pimping it but the neck is not standard Fender width at the body end and it would mean some work to make it fit. I will eventually make my own but for now..