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Chienmortbb

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Everything posted by Chienmortbb

  1. Chienmortbb
    Uses Neutrik straight, nickel plated jack plugs and Sommer low loss cable. Normally £29. Lifetime guarantee. Postage cost £3. You cannot buy this cable from anyone else as all others use inferior cables or inferior connectors. Sommer Spirit LLX Spec SC-SPIRIT LLX "LOW LOSS" Instrument Cable Advantages: - Extremely low capacitance values - Robust, twist-proof and easy to reel - Low-loss, detailed and neutral transmission properties - Double shielding by Cu mesh plus conductive carbon screen Application: - Highly flexible cable for the demanding studio and live guitarist - High-quality patch cabling in the professional studio technology - High-end cable for the live DJ Technical Data: - Article number: 300-0091 - Name: SC-SPIRIT LLX "LOW LOSS" - EAN: 4049371220248 - Properties: Analog - Properties: OFC oxygen free copper - Application area: Stage / live - Application area: Installation - Application area: Studio / Broadcast - Application area: Mobile outdoor / indoor - Application: Instrument Cable - Colour: black - Signal transmission: asymmetrical - Construction: LI2Y(LS)CY 1x0,38mm² - Jacket material: PVC - Jacket Ø: 7,20 mm - Jacket Ø: 0.2835 " - Number of Channels (audio): 1 - Inner conductor (audio): 1 - Inner conductor (audio): 0,38 mm² - Inner conductor (audio): 0.0006 sqin - Inner conductor Ø (audio): 0,70 mm - Inner conductor Ø (audio): 0.0276 " - AWG (audio): 21 - Shielding: Copper braided shielding + semiconductor - Shielding factor: 100 % - Copper strands (audio): 19 - Copper strand Ø (audio): 0,16 mm - Copper strand Ø (audio): 0.0063 " - Conductor insulation material: Foam / Skin-PVC - Weight per 1 m: 62,2 g - Weight at 1000 ft.: 41.8554 lbs - UV-resistant: yes - Fire load per m: 0,26 kWh - Style variant: round - Packing: 100 m - Temperature min.: -30 °C - Temperature max.: 70 °C - Width: 7,2 mm - Width: 0.2835 " - Height: 7,2 mm - Height: 0.2835 " - Capac. cond./shield. per 1 m (audio): 52 pF - Capacity wire/electic screen at 1 ft. (audio): 15.8496 pF - Insulation resist. per 1 km: 1 GΩ - Insulation resist. per 1000 feet: 0.3048 GΩ - Insulation resist. per 1 km (audio): 1 GΩ - Insulation resist. per 1000 feet (audio): 0.3048 GΩ - Conductor resistance per 1 km: 48 Ω - Conductor resistance per 1000 ft.: 14.6304 Ω
  2. Chienmortbb
    Bluetooth works on 2.4GHz, so if you use a 2.4GHz wireless system it may interfere.
  3. Chienmortbb
    I think you will need 30-40dB and that can be achieved in a single attenuator. Let me have a look though my past archives.
  4. Chienmortbb
    Mic level for an SM58 is 1.85mV, line level on my mixer is +4dBu or 1.23V (1230 mV), well over 600 times more. Other mics may be higher or lower output.
  5. Chienmortbb
    To be honest there will be so may signals arriving at your ears at different times that 2mS is hardly worth mentioning. In fact the early digital mixers had delays approaching 2mS. See Yamaha O2R96 spec below.
  6. Chienmortbb
    No KZ 10s.
  7. Chienmortbb
    Is that the microphone version pf amp overhang?
  8. Chienmortbb
    Many or these systems use the ring of a TRS plug to charge the wireless transmitter. Many active basses use the ring of a TRS as a battery switch when the mono TS plug is inserted. Hence the two will not work together. Look for a systems with a standard jack plug NOT a TRS. You can see the difference between the Lekato and the NUX below, Incidentally, I am not recommending the Lekato, just showing you the difference.
  9. Chienmortbb
    A good idea if you want to blow your amp.
  10. Chienmortbb
    Made with Neutrik connectors, right-angled on one end and straight on the other. Uses Sommer Spirit LLX, just about the best cable you can buy. Coils easily and features low loss due to its low capacitance. This cable is brand new and reday to post. Add £4 for postage
  11. Chienmortbb
    They have a smiley face type response so do need EQ ing to get them substantially flat.
  12. Chienmortbb
    I sold one of your guitarists a stand, I do not recognise the player with the beard so I guess he must be the man down?
  13. Chienmortbb
    Never done that before 🤞In fact I did it at our last gig. It was at my local Legion and several friends were there. One, no musician but has a keen ear for music, said it was the first time she had really heard me and I was good. 😀 Actually scrap the bit about her having a keen ear for music.
  14. Chienmortbb
    You will not regret that. They are great.
  15. Chienmortbb
    Just some further thoughts… I have never owned a bass with a typical P bass neck. 42mm nut width and half a baseball bat for its profile. I always thought the J bass neck was better, even though I almost always use only the Neck pup on my other basses. My long hands seem to gel well with this neck. The finish on the body, back and front is superb with only a slight imperfection on the lower part of the neck pocket. While no bad, the neck could have been finished better. However there are no sharp fret ends. Although the new bridge was smaller that the old one, the finish revealed is perfect. There was no damage when the old bridge had been and, not only were the holes identical, but the stagger built into the bass means that the intonation was almost spot on. I have not yet decided whether to re-decal the bass, however there is a sharp edge at the body end of the neck that will need rounding off.
  16. Chienmortbb
    Well, too much wasted time on BC + caring duties, cable making and gigging meant I had had little time to play. This week I have fitted new bridge(s), fitted a neck shim and changed the machine heads for Wilkinson 750s. The machine heads were bought a few years ago as “new to me” on the BC marketplace, I cannot remember how much I paid for them or from whom I bought them. They were just waiting for a future project. They were a bit stiff initially and I should say that the original machine heads were not bad, certainly better than the one originally fitted to my Sire Marcus Miller M2. Anyway a quick squirt or two of Lidl PTFE lubricant spray and they are a smooth as (insert own simile here). In one of my earlier posts, I said that I could not get the height down as the bridge pieces were at their lowest settings. When I picked up the bass after many month I found that one of the saddles was missing. So the bullet had to be bitten, ordered a new set from Northwest Guitars. I found them on Amazon but not wanting to add to Mr Bezos’ vast fortune, I went to the Nortwest Guitars website. The bridge was dearer than on Amazon. So, I bit on the bullet harder and paid Mr B some of my hard earned gig money. As you can see from the picture below, the new individual bridge pieces are shorter than the old ones, they are also shorter in height than the originals. That, together with the shim has meant the saddled have lots of adjustment both ways and the only thing stopping a super low action is a few high frets… Two things left to do, try a new pickup. Will liaise with @neepheid on that one. Finally I have to decide whether to do localised ferret levelling as part of the fret polishing, or go for a full on level and crown. As there are only three high frets, I will probably go for the former as even the high one are not high across fret board. However as you can see, there is some tarnish on the frets so they do need a good polish. So the initial cost of the bass was £150, the new bridge(s) £23 and I think the machine heads were no more than £15. I was going to get a ToneRider P pickup but I have a P taken from my real Aerodyne. There was nothing wrong with it but I wanted a silent J pickup in there a bought a set of DiMarzios from @Dood of this parish. So the original Fender (Japan) pickup will go in here first. If that works itcwill make a very nice P bass for under £200.
  17. Chienmortbb
    Your woodworking skills are better than mine. I built a similar pedal board during . lockdown but left it a little rough. I recently bought some brackets from eBay that are 3d printed so watch out for a new board shortly. I am glad you liked the cable.
  18. Chienmortbb
    £160 for the moulds, plus £100+ for the initial impression. Seems a lot for a pair of ZS 10s.
  19. Chienmortbb
    Just how it should be played!
  20. Chienmortbb
    I was thinking jacks. I have left my error unedited so your post still makes sense.
  21. Chienmortbb
    Can you explain for this ignoramus.
  22. Chienmortbb
    If the crossover is designed properly and you have a decent compression driver/horn, you would not want or need to turn it off.
  23. Chienmortbb
    Something i noticed some years ago. I noticed that an Amphenol plug was rated at 1000 cycles when Nuetrik and Cliff were quoting many more (5000 or 10000), I contacted Amphenol and was told by the CEO that actually they do the same as Neutrik/Cliff. I kept with the other brands.
  24. Chienmortbb
    There is a knack of disassembling those older 2way speakONs but it does involve a lot of swearing and a good chance of you puncturing part of your hand! In fairness the design was good in that is effectively a one piece construction but in reality it was a PITA to assemble and reuse. None of the speakON designs are perfect and IMHO the current ones are a real pain. You need a Torx driver and the latch is not as easy as the older series. You should also use a Torque driver tighten both the cable screws and housing assembly but I wonder how many DIY ears will even read the assembly instructions? If you prefer the older designs, Neutrik’s REAN branded ones are familiar and only need a Pozi (PZ) driver to assemble. They are, however, only specified at a minimum of 1000 insertions rather than the 5000 of the Neutrik branded ones.
  25. Chienmortbb
    You know me so well!
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