Chienmortbb

I have just bought two sets of Newtone Strings, and I am loving them. Not over bright when fitted, to my ears they have not changed in tone since I fitted the six weeks ago (4 gigs and 2 rehearsals since). They have round cores and seem to have a lower finger noise than most rounds.

If you know how long you want the cable, I can make you one. I have the connectors and cable in stock.

Strings could be a problem, but I suspect it is the amp. That is a tiny guitar combo, and it is unlikely to reproduce the low notes well. So change the strings, then try a different amp.

I might book a holiday that week. We always seem to have good weather then.

Maybe a different coloured tape around each mic?

I am going to agree with @BigRedX in most ways. First if you do not have control of FoH, choose either a passive DI or active one that runs on battery. I use two of the Orchid Classic DIs and they have either battery or phantom power options. I also use a DIY box using two budget😀Sowter transformers that were £45 each for guitars on occasion. Those Sowters are great but will saturate at about +3dB. A good DI Tx will not Saturday till +25 dB but will cost an arm and a leg. It is no fun being a one armed monopod. With regard to the EMO DIs, there were really well engineered and had a price tag to match. They would have had good quality transformers. Laterly the brand was bought by those rascals at Canford Audio and I have no knowledge. However looking at the specs of the current offerings, they will cover just about any eventually. https://www.canford.co.uk/EMO-PASSIVE-DIRECT-INJECTION-BOXES Most of the “budget” DIs will have a transformer that cost about £3 retail and has bit a low saturation point and a poor LF response. Absolutely sh1te for bass or keyboards. Of course the way Keyboard 🎹 players sometimes like to take over out part of the spectrum that might be a good thing. A good DI transformer will set you back £50-70 from Sowter, Lundhal, Jensen or OEP. That plus a box, decent connectors and they labour suggests that anything passive under £100 should be approached with suspicion.

Well the G4M box is passive, so there will be some signal loss. The Orchid should be OK as the OP has said he is feeding a mixer. As long as it has phantom power, he should be OK.

DHL are awful Tracking next to useless and drivers just don't turn up if they feel like it. Thomann are registered with HMRC. That means they take the VAT and pay it to HMRC like any UK business. One other issue with Thomann, anything with a Wall Wart power supply comes with Shuko plug and Thomann provide an adaptor. Great except the adaptors are quite large and you cannot always fit into mains extension leads with other plugs.

Correct Bill. It drives me mad that because the rest of the band do not understand, I have to treat them like babies. One of my favourites? We were having feedback problems, The singer's solution, "try a different mic cable". I have tried to explain that mic/monitor positioning is that problem. Two of our onstage mics are cardioid and two Super cardioids. The concept that they reject unwanted sounds from different angles blows their tiny minds.

I think you are being a little light-hearted. #Seriously though, your humour is even more impressive as English is not your first language

It is like a lot of HIFI terms. Ill-defined, and not too helpful. A bit like heft!

No, many makers exaggerate, take Behringer/Bugera. They make good stuff but 2000 watts? There are people using ICEPower modules that are quoting between 50 and 100 watts more than ICEPower quote for the modules.

It is complicated, at least to the layman, but there are different ways of measuring power in speakers. At the basic level, the RMS voltage across a speaker multiplied by the RMS current through it will give you the AVERAGE power. Don't go on the HIFI forums, though, as many try to promote a different "average" power. The term RMS power is not really correct, but is better understood than average power. Of course, it is around 50 years since my college days. I have never seen a satisfactory explanation of PEAK, INSTANTANEOUS or any other bogus power rating. The AES Audio Engineering Society did create a standard that some driver manufacturers use, but I don't have enough knowledge of it to comment except to say it usually gives a higher figure than RMS. Bill has a good point though, take 6dB off any peak figure, and you may be close to the real SPL.

@Bill Fitzmaurice summed it up pretty well. Anything in the 2-8KHz region is best served by a tweeter, as beaming of 10-15" drivers mean the only people that hear the sound of the bass are straight in front of it. If that is the bassist's backside, it's all lost. A well-designed cab with a tweeter will not sound harsh, and cabs cannot hiss, only amps and pedals can hiss. Any bass will sound better through a properly designed cabinet. IMHO, cabinets should be substantially flat and if I want a particular sound I use EQ and/or pedals. This is true when using all types of basses, flats or round wounds.

Exactly, you will find a cab with good dispersion will mean that you, your band and the audience will all hear things clearly. I use one of @stevie cabs, they put out what you put in and you can hear them from anywhere on the stage. The new Monza is a monzta. As for the amp, the one thing that came out of the recent amp shoot-out at the South West Bass Bash was that most of the amps there were very capable. watch out for that soon.

I am lucky in that Guitar Mania is in Poole and just up the road, just across the border in Bournemouth, is Absolute Music. I usually ask them both whether they have an item before buying elsewhere.

Look at the name on the front, "Bose". Does not scream "sound tech that knows his/her stuff", and the subs to tops ratio and placement? 11,000 watts? (maybe 1100, downhill with a following wind). Are you sure this has not been photoshopped?

+1

I suspect the Elf would give the MB200 a run for it money. I would take the Trace EQ over the GK any day.

Can you take some pics of the inside.?

In my humble opinion, there is no real need to have the earth/ground connected on a signal feed. It is not a safety issue, and you are far more likely to have no trouble with the ground lifted. Many DI boxes have the ground lifted by default.

To be honest, if you are only putting vocals through the PA you should be fine. Those at the bar are only there for the drinking.

Yes, I have just started doing this, and I find it really helps specially when singing BVs