Chienmortbb

Not sure Stradivarius is a good analogy. Making the best instrument that mimics a cat being strangled is a low bar 😂 .

I just realised how stupid I was commenting on style. I had pink loons back in the day.

I stand corrected.

Sorry, but a cab that looks like a 60s record player will never darken my door.

I have to be honest, I am happy either way but in my current band, a combination of dinosaurs ( some of my band members), band politics and insufficient PA capability means that IEM route is road closed for now. I am the new boy (sic) so don’t want to rock the boat as it is by and large a happy band. The band is not that quiet but I have never had ringing in my ears after rehearsal of gigs and I am happy with my backline. In saying that I would prefer better monitoring and where we play that is only possible with IEMs. However the singer likes to use his PA, rather than mine and only wants vocals through it. It has no aux buses so no of even a basic IEM mix. I on the other hand, I have a digital mixer with 6 aux buses plus a selection of tops and subs. These are only used on outdoor gigs. The case for going to a silent stage (ampless is such a misnomer) is very strong, but I would argue, needs a competent sound tech driving FoH. Otherwise the FoH sound is as much a crap shoot as a traditional band setting with backline and vocals only PA. However being able to really hear my backing vocals could be a game changer, it might encourage me or persuade me to stop singing altogether.😀

Actually it does not make much difference with subs. Th3 main thing is to keep the together or not too far apart. . If you place the subs on either side you get comb filtering. So just by moving a metre or two either way you can be deafened by the subs of barely hear them. I learnt about the theory of this about a week before a concert. The subs were placed either side of the stage and every time the bassist dug in or the drummer hit the kick, everything else was obliterated. There is a good video on sub placement here. There is a little tech speak but the graphics do not lie. .

It's good to have your knowledge on this. My last dealings with car amps was a few decades ago. I was going to put some info here about non car audio amps, but will make an effort to declutter this thread and will start a new thread.

I think bi-amping makes the difference. Feeding band limited signals to the two cabs means there is no chance of the usual comb-filtering. For most people they will not use bi-amping and feedin two different cabs from the same amplifier, is the situation for most. Of course is could cause a happy accident. Look art the Jazz bass for example, some people think the sound of the two pickups gives a pleasant sound. Personally I think that rear pickup is a waste of time BUT so many revered bassists say otherwise. So try it by all,Evans, be prepared to be disappointed but you might just strike gold.

Firstly you need to decide what battery you want to use then what power you need from the amp to achieve the required volume /SPL. Then you can decide whether, like @Mottlefeeder, you want to use a car amp that combines the amp and a voltage multiplier. Alternately you can use a class D amp plus a separate voltage multiplier. Be aware that car amp makers exaggerate even more than MI makers. Next, do you need a preamp? What is the output of the modeller that you have designed? It might be worth starting a new build thread to explore this further.

I think the wheels are in motion and a proper drawing will be available soon. Incidently, I put my Ashdown retroglide 800 through the original the other night. The other half was out, and the Neighbours are away. It can shift some air. It cannot compete with my LFSys Monaco, but would certainly do for many pub gigs and rehearsals.

A piezo without a preamp is as much use as a chocolate teapot.

It broke the mixer? On a serious note, the only caveat I would add is that PA subs should be placed side by side not vertically and definitely not either side of the stage.

I can’t see a tuner but the machine heads are at weird angles😀

Recently I have had to login every time I visit. I have the box checked that says Keep Me Logged In . Has something changed? It happens on several devices.

Most desks I have used use 75Hz as the HPF although 100 would be fine by me for everything but the Kick and the bass. However we need to look at why we are filtering. At the bass players rig, the requirement is different and depends on whether the bass goes through the FoH or a bass rig. Although the reasons are slightly different. At the rig the HPF both clears up the mush and protects the drivers from over exertion. Those going amp-less can leave the HPF to the FoH technician.

Good advice although I would use it on the keyboards too. Solo keyboards might be OK without, but in a band setting you need to keep those pesky pianists out of our sonic space. I always worry when they say, I can do that on the keyboard.

An order is usually 6dB, so 12dB is second order, 18dB is third Order and 24dB is fourth order.

The decision whether to choose an EI laminated transformer and a Toroid is not a simple one. I remember working on a TV monitor that was designed for an EI transformer. It was decided to change to a toroid to reduce weight and cut costs. All went great until switch on and HUMMMMMMMMMM. The picture had horizontal bars running up/down the screen. The magnetic field of a toroid is much tighter and well-defined than an EI, BUT in this case the stray magnetic filed was focused on the CRT neck and causing a brightness difference. The number of hum bars depended on how far the mains frequency was from 50Hz as TV timebases were very accurate but mains varies in frequency. In the right position the toroid can reduce magnetically induced hum in am amp but in the wrong place? I am sure that @stoneham is aware of this though.

I have only been using the Orchids for about 10 years but have never had a problem with it. If I had used the EMO, like you, for years I would be the same. Of course EMO were a quality manufacturer. The transformers used would not have been a cheap and cheerful one and that would have been reflected in the price.

No it will make it neck dive.

Don’t worry too much about the amp if you build one of the smaller BC variants. Your preamp is in the Dwarf so you just need a power amp. Also do not worry about the power. Choose an efficient driver and use an HPF ( you can probably do that in your setup already). Do not worry about the extreme low end. Battery power is a limitation but you can get inverters that double or treble the voltage. I have designed a PA for my local football club the uses a 12V leisure battery ( it’s a car battery but designed for continuous use rather than the peak use starting a car). By using a 12-36v inverter I can drive 2 x 100W amps that will operate in an emergency even if the mains fails. So decide how much acoustic power you need then you can work out roughly what driver/amp/battery-inverter you need. There are car amplifiers that include the inverters, I believe @Mottlefeederhas done a lot of research and amassed a lot of knowledge in that area. Regarding your Roland amp, the 5” speakers may well give a good output at higher frequencies, many 5” speakers approach full range. However the response may be tailored by Roland for a certain response.

At the end of the day, if you have the cabs already, why not. The advice to avoid mixing sizes is a rule of thumb and not cast in stone. I would not buy say a 15 to go with a 2x10 although at one time the received wisdom was that this was a good combination. However if you own a 2x10 and a 1x15 try it, what have you got to lose?

Yes, but the shape is a bit up and down. On a serious note, I agree about the sound of EL34s.

I know the theory. A good transformer is eye wateringly expensive, and will still colour the sound. I have never had a problem with the Orchid in over 200 gigs. A good active DI will not colour the audio and most mixers will use a similar output topology. My good friend @Passinwinddoes favour a transformer to couple preamps to power amps to add a little warmth to the sound, but do we need warmth in a signal from a DI?

Hard to argue with that.