Chienmortbb

I am not a great fan of valve amps but I love the shape of a KT88. Yes I am sad.

That will open your eyes,whe. You take the filter higher and higher and realise how little the real low end really contributes to your sound. We all know what frequencies the E and B strings are but it is really the 2nd harmonics, around 60 and 80Hz that we hear.

I do not know the preamp or model you are using, but there is no good stuff at 30Hz even if you plat 5 string. It will not hurt at all. In that region, all you get is excessive power being used for moving the speaker slowly. You are protecting your speaker and, as you say, tightening your sound.

Having recently had long email conversations with Neutrik, I can be of some help here. The old 2 and 4 way Neutrik speakONs have been discontinued as they do not meet the new IEC directive. The new directive comes into force on 1st January 2024. Whilst the new and old speakONs are compatible, the new ones only comply with regulations if the chassis sockets also meet the new regs. Most amps we own or those in stock at the moment in the market will not be compliant. However, cables sold on, or after, 1st Jan must be compliant. As I understand it, both UL in the US, CE marking and the UK equivalents (got to love Brexit) require compliance. I am still assimilating the information, but as I see it, these new plugs break all contacts simultaneously to remove the chance of am electric shock. They have also been uprated in both voltage and current. I was also advised that the combo sockets, that were rated at 10 amps on the jack socket, are now derated to 0,5A. That means a maximum of 2 watts into 8 ohms or 1 watt into 4 ohms. Before anyone tells me that they have been using jacks on an Ampeg since 100BC, jack plugs were designed as signal plugs and never designed for speakers. I am sure someone like @agedhorse will be well aware of these changes and be along soon to correct any errors. I have had comments that this is Neutrik's way of fighting the cheap Chinese copies. However, as a reputable company, they have to abide by the standards in force. I now have samples of the new XX series, and they are more robust, but are tricky to assemble properly. I have already seen prices of the old plugs reduce, while the new plugs are at a higher price point and are harder to obtain.

A problem you do not have with an active DI.

Orchid Electronics Classic DI. It is Active but runs on battery or Phantom power. I have two and they have never let me down. Having investigated audio transformers at some length, a good one is really expensive. The cheaper they are the lower the saturation point.

Warman pups come highly recommended. https://www.warmanguitars.co.uk/product/p-bass-classic-pickup-8-56kohm-and-5-21-henries/

And speaker efficiency is not measured in voice coil diameter. Such a large motor suggests an inefficient driver.

It is the same preamp and the knobs feel the same as on the V series basses, I will look at my M2 tomorrow.

I think that you mean, "some US basses approach the quality of Japanese Fenders"😇

Of course it does have 96K gold plugs.

I am not an expert but it looks like the old units use a parallel connection while this unit and pickup uses a serial connection. Having had to repair a number of Roland Drum modules, the parallel connector is the weak link, mechanically very unstable. A TRS cable is more robust but easy to pull out. Do you need the BOSS cable, is it not wired pin to pin on the TRS? If it is pin to pin it’s hard to see why a decent TRS cable would not work fine.

It’s odd. There can only be one twisted pair, is the third conductor a shield? Is so it’s a good quality TRS balanced cable. Mic cable is one twisted pair covered by a screen and it is the screen that does most of the interference suppression.

Thanks guys.

Will this work?

I knew I should have asked you, but I thought others might need to know so why not post it so others can see the answer.

I need to split mic feeds so that I can feed both monitors and FoH. The Y type cables seem like a poor way to do it so it seems that a Behringer MS8000 or ART Splitter would be needed. The ART is several times more expensive than the Behringer. Has anyone any experience of either device or another solution?

Good call. There is nothing intrinsically wrong with CTS pots, I just like to tell people that there is no magic in them. If you are not sure of doing the work yourself, a @KiOgon loom is a good solution.

Now I am fuming, I have been really trying hard NOT to add a Monza to my Monaco but you have to wax lyrical. I might as well just just two debit cards for my account and give one to LFSys. I am going to have to sell a lot of cables to make up for it or is there a section in For Sale for kidneys?

I find the UK made OMEG pots to be very good both in large and small (16mm) size. The only problem is the minimum purchase direct from OMEG. Don’t stress about using CTS pots, they were what Leo had back in the day but are by no means a gold standard, then or now. On my CIJ Aerodyne, I replace the stock pickups with DiMarzios. The Aerodyne is a P/J so only the rear pickup is a Jazz but it does give a Jazz tone in a humbucker, so noiseless. I had a long dialogue with the DiMarzio techs and used their slightly unusual wiring scheme. The result was a Tone control that works and gives a smooth sweep from bright to dull.

Most of the sound is influenced by the electronics and the wood in the neck. I doubt you could tell from a blind listening test but then, what is the point of a transparent bass if you cannot see it?

I believed him at the time, and most HIFI speakers are still made from MDF. However, working with @Phil Starr and @stevie , and with the onset of old age, I realise that careful design can make thinner, lighter materials very useable for musicians.

Were these made from MDF? I remember talking to an ex Trace chap that was going to make me an extension cab for my BLX130. He was insistent that MDF was the only material for a speaker cabinet.

Thomann are UK VAT registered. They pay vat directly to HMRC.