Chienmortbb

I cannot find that mic ceiling fitment on the K&M website. Ah, it seems you can only buy it with the mic stand.

Where did you get it?

As the original J pickup was the usual antenna, I bought a set of DiMarzios from @Dood. It is called a Jazz as the body shape is like a Jazz. However, the real ones, always had a P pickup at the neck. I would never have bought it with two single coils. Mine came directly from Japan, before Fender got heavy and stopped the Japanese music companies selling overseas. Even with shipping, vat and duty it cost about half the cost of a new one in the UK.

What. My black one or the OP's? When I first saw a Black Aerodyne Jazz in my local shop, I thought "Ooh nice, I bet it does not play or sound as good as it looks". So I played it and loved it. It has a 7.5" neck radius, so will not be to everyone's taste, but the new ones have a flatter neck, removing one of the almost unique features. Mine has survived a flood that consigned its hard case to the great musical skip, but with a little TLC the one shown above survived. I also bought it with some of the money left to me by my Mum, so "don't dis de Aero". Gad to see you got home safe from Outer Mongolia Somerset last month.

The front pickup is wrong, the rosewood is too pale, and it does not have an output jack! Of course, I am the proud owner of a 2003 AJB65, the original Aerodyne Jazz, or actually a PJ.

What part of Darzet?

I am about nine foot tall (well 6ft2) The biggest problem is bending down to tweak a knob.

No, the Government Front bench Active several knobs, with a couple stacked upon each other.

I stood behind my cab at a recent gig and heard it quite well. Of course, dispersion is as much about the audience as ourselves. We bassists are not so cavalier with our fans as the guitards.

What is a tube? I would say a 15-30 watt valve amp would do the trick😀

If you have to point is at yours ears, the dispersion is wrong, stinky poo, not very good. That means, as you tilt it, you hear better and everyone else hears worse. To get the mid-dispersion you need a cab with a high quality horn coupled to a high quality compression driver similar to those @stevie uses in his LFSys cabs.

That is the quiescent current setting for the output MOSFETS. It will not affect the 40mV offset at all. Move it without either marking its position with have one of two consequences, The first is that too much quiescent current will be drawn, and the output stages will run hotter than normal. The second is that the MOSFETs will not be biased correctly, and you will get increased crossover distortion. The 40mV DC offset is almost irrelevant IMHO. The Circuit Diagram (what our US cousins call the Schematic) for a typical Trace power amp is shown below, but I suspect your problem lies elsewhere. The fact that connecting the input to 0V or ground solves the problem means that the issue is in the preamp/EQ section. Start at the front by shorting the input to the preamp. However, the link to DIYAudio above suggests an earth loop problem, and I would not attempt that unless you are confident that you can do it safely. The power amp Circuit Diagram linked above shows that same connections to the preamp/main PCB as the GP7. See Below: Check the ripple (AC voltage) across C29, C26,C27 and C28 as well as the DC voltages across them.

That is an example of current limiting.

To be honest, I do not think that price will be around for long. It costs about that price to buy the parts. For example the RA Silent plug is at least £12 everywhere, If the soldering is done properly, That will be a great buy

That would be a good cable except the picture show the cable a SC-Club. That is a microphone cable. The text says Sommer Spirit. If they are using Sommer Spirit with those connectors that is a good price. However the P&P will be about £6.

This is from the User Manual, so the they have the same power supply specs.

Almost certainly, although they claim 1400 watts for the 15 as opposed to 1200 for the 12. Probably just marketing BS anyway.

Sorry for the delay, I don't recognise that PSU. I am happy to have a look at it if you want to send it. Although the PSUs seem to be more reliable than the power amps.

I had the BLX130, Same amp but an extra set of MOSFES in the output stage. Sill prbably the one amp I regret selling but the weight.... The model number came from the idea that these were the Dog's BLX.

Yes, they take a lot of juice, I think close to 2 amps. If you find that the travel router is not good enough, you may need to get a router like the one mentioned above or one of the more expensive Mesh/IPv6 routers. Are you using 5GHz?

IMHO, it is better to consider Class D amps as modulator/demodulators (modems) or radio transmitter/receivers, where both actions happen within a single unit. PWM is a form of modulation like AM or FM. At no point does the signal in a class D amp need to be converted to 1s or 0s. In some cases, manufacturers may use digital circuits to control aspects of the amplifier, but it is not a prerequisite.

I agree, the advent of IPv^6 plus Mash technology has pushed up top end prices, so £70-£100 is now mid-range. With my Soundcraft UI16, I use a TP LInk Travel Router. Ite has never let me down and when I needed another Ethernet (wired) port, I bought one of these Soho Switch. Here is the Ethernet adaptor I use on the iPad..

I have had quite a few for different projects, and never had a problem, except when trying to use them underwater.

300W is achievable, but not at 32V and probably not in that enclosure.

Only goes to prove that Leo got it wrong occasionally! Only joking.