Chienmortbb

Will this work?

I knew I should have asked you, but I thought others might need to know so why not post it so others can see the answer.

I need to split mic feeds so that I can feed both monitors and FoH. The Y type cables seem like a poor way to do it so it seems that a Behringer MS8000 or ART Splitter would be needed. The ART is several times more expensive than the Behringer. Has anyone any experience of either device or another solution?

Good call. There is nothing intrinsically wrong with CTS pots, I just like to tell people that there is no magic in them. If you are not sure of doing the work yourself, a @KiOgon loom is a good solution.

Now I am fuming, I have been really trying hard NOT to add a Monza to my Monaco but you have to wax lyrical. I might as well just just two debit cards for my account and give one to LFSys. I am going to have to sell a lot of cables to make up for it or is there a section in For Sale for kidneys?

I find the UK made OMEG pots to be very good both in large and small (16mm) size. The only problem is the minimum purchase direct from OMEG. Don’t stress about using CTS pots, they were what Leo had back in the day but are by no means a gold standard, then or now. On my CIJ Aerodyne, I replace the stock pickups with DiMarzios. The Aerodyne is a P/J so only the rear pickup is a Jazz but it does give a Jazz tone in a humbucker, so noiseless. I had a long dialogue with the DiMarzio techs and used their slightly unusual wiring scheme. The result was a Tone control that works and gives a smooth sweep from bright to dull.

Most of the sound is influenced by the electronics and the wood in the neck. I doubt you could tell from a blind listening test but then, what is the point of a transparent bass if you cannot see it?

I believed him at the time, and most HIFI speakers are still made from MDF. However, working with @Phil Starr and @stevie , and with the onset of old age, I realise that careful design can make thinner, lighter materials very useable for musicians.

Were these made from MDF? I remember talking to an ex Trace chap that was going to make me an extension cab for my BLX130. He was insistent that MDF was the only material for a speaker cabinet.

Thomann are UK VAT registered. They pay vat directly to HMRC.

Strings are a composite, they can have round or hexagonal cores and round, flay, tape or even ground windings. I am not sure a mass calculation based on anything but a detailed knowledge of the core and winding material would be accurate enough.

When I researched this some years ago, even many of the solvent based finishes took weeks to fully cure. Of course there will have been advances over the years. It might help if you mentioned the type and brands you have used.

In every industry there is a company that you will “never get fired for buying”. In our industry, Fender are one and Shure is another. It does not mean that they are the best, they certainly are not always the best. if you find something that works for you, be happy, let others know but don’t ram it down the throat of others. Me? I have a Japanese Aerodyne Jazz bass, a P/J. I have never played a Jazz or Precision from the USA that I liked. I did have a Squire in the Early days that was great, wish I had never sold it. I sing BVs but do not own an SM58. I use Sontronics Solos. Of course they are made on the hill above my old house in good old Dorset but they are just a great mic. https://youtu.be/RfQCLQrsPyA Of course there is nothing wrong with Fender USA basses of Shure Microphones so please don’t look down on those poor souls that have to make do with an SM58 and a pre CBS Fender.These designs may be older than me but we can all still shake a tail feather!

You are not wrong but of course the output of some pickups when using a plectrum or slapping is much higher, from memory peaking at well over 1V and the techniques for rail splitting are not perfect. The NE5532 is one of my favourite chips but a 9V battery would drain fast with the NE5532. . Using 18V and a low power OpAmp will give a much longer time between battery changes/charges. In an ideal world basses would use 18V used to create +9, 0, -9V. That is what the chips need but it would require an on/off switch on the bass rather than rely on a stereo jack socket.

On the bright side, look how many of us have looked over there since the relaunch.

I have used half round or ground wound strings and they were great to play, however very high tension. Saying that they were the best all round strings. Low string noise, almost as bright as a good new round wound. The old Welsh made Picato Ground wounds were my favourite.

If you have to tweak the truss rod, the tension is much different.

To me they are higher tension than most round-wounds I have used.

On a serious note, Boring electronics warning (Bb?) one of the best reasons for using a higher voltage is that the circuit will operate for longer even when the batteries are close to discharge. Transistors and Integrated circuit designs will have a minimum working voltage beyond which the circuits become non-linear. In the case of fuzz, overdrive and drive circuits, more non-linear and unpredictable. Most Operational Amplifiers work on twin rails with one positive and one negative rail. To use them on 9V means some form of voltage divider, so each side has only 4.5 volts nominal. The voltage divider may itself reduce the available voltage. Take the workhorse TL072, this has a minimum working voltage of 4.5V. If you use a rechargeable 9V NiMh battery the nominal voltage is 8.4V and as it discharges it will reach 4.5V before two batteries in series that would be at 9V at the same point in the discharge cycle. Now the voltage swing of an Op Amp is limited by the supply voltage so at 4.5V, in an ideal world, that would be 4.5V peak to peak, 2.25V peak or just just over 1.5V RMS. Using 18volts (2 x 9V) that would double the minimum output to 3.0V RMS, a more useable output. Of course modern Op Amps will operate on much lower voltages but clearly, these are more expensive and often not used on many designs.

In my apprentice days, 50 odd years ago, the biggest threat said in an electronics workplace was “ I’ll stick that soldering iron up your derrière, handle first”. Looks like she would have no trouble getting it back out.

I have been critical of Bass Direct in the past and the old website was awful but this is a big improvement. It’s not perfect and like and software, there will be bugs. The filter choice that comes up when you selects a category should be on a sub menu. It rakes up too much “real estate”. The first thing you should see is some product. These are my first thoughts and I have not spent a long time going all around the site. However it’s a start and good stock control should go some way to address in some of the problems other have encountered.

Yes to the Puretone, also look at the Artec one. It is very good.

+1

Oh dear. Rookie errors.

Oh I see, Some of the Harley Benton ones do I believe.