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Everything posted by Chienmortbb
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There is definitely a case for "It's not what you have, it is how you use it" with DSP as well as anything else. I have never bothered with an expression pedal but have had the B1ON and now the B1Four. Mechanically different but both bulletproof IMHO. TheB1Four has two advantages, it is quieter and has manual controls for Vol/Bass/Mid/Treb. I would probably still be using my B1ON if the B1Four had not come out. Finally, the Tuner on the B1FOUR is superb. Fast responding and accurate according to the Peterson App (the very best tuner under £100 is you discount the phone/tablet cost). Also, very easy to see on stage.
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Alt be Aux busses will probably not be able to supply the current. You could try it though as the outputs will be driven by opamps and they will be able withstand driving headphones without damage. They would most likely be too quiet for monitoring.
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Oh yes.
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Oh dear I am getting an itch for a B6….If only they had called it The Spiral or The Oval. Maybe as they are called Zoom, they could produce a successor to the B1Four called the Pocket Rocket? A B6 MK2 called Basement Jacks. Off to take my pills now.
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I think you may have hit the spot there. Add the fact that they don’t have exotic sounding names.
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Yes, I also have A Behringer’s BDI21 and that is close to the Zooms in toughness.
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I have. Had Zoom pedals for well over 30 years. All have had plastic enclosures and all have sailed through hundreds of gigs. So why is there often a sneer when Zoom’s enclosures are mentioned? The technology has proven itself so what is the problem? Of course, plastic does not shield as well as metal but my experience is that the Zoom pedals are well designed and not susceptible to interference. So what is the beef with Zoom?
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When I was a Test Engineer, many moons ago, we had Weller Irons. I never really got on with them, but they were the first real temperature controlled Irons. This is my current one, almost as expensive as a Barefaced😀* Of course, it is overkill for most people. * Actually it's about 60% the price of a One 10.
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Learning to Play through the Pain of Arthritis--Anybody Else?
Chienmortbb replied to ChWillie's topic in General Discussion
Oh, sorry. Have you tried lighter gauge strings? It may help. -
Learning to Play through the Pain of Arthritis--Anybody Else?
Chienmortbb replied to ChWillie's topic in General Discussion
I have had some relief using a practice glove. They are available via eBay and Amazon. It will not work miracles, but the extra warmth makes playing much easier. You can just see the white glove in the blurry pic from New Year's Eve 2022. Weirdly, only Amazon do a beige one, eBay have black or white. I have only had one comment at a gig, telling me I forgot to put the right-hand one on. I did not laugh. -
The Jack input will be TRS as per a mic, but should accept a standard TS or mono jack plug. It will not be as loud as if you are using a mic, as you lose 6dB going unbalanced. In addition, this is NOT am instrument input so will be low impedance. That will load your passive bass, loosing even more volume. You need a preamp of some sort like the BDI21 shown above or a DI out from your amp.
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Sadly Mate, 58% agree.
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When they are hot, they are germ free unlike the Shure.
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Those are both good options. MiniDSP use their own DSP and ICEPower amps, Hypex use their own DSP and power amps. There is for, and against for DSP. Digital Signal Processing is very versatile and help cover up a multitude of sins. In PA amps they are used both as active crossovers and for tone shaping, giving the option to tailor the response to the intended use of the cabinet. They can tame more inexpensive drivers but you cannot make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. Also, with active crossovers you need more than one amplifier and while Class D means that there are few cost or weight implications to this, it does add complexity. Purists will argue that a better bet is a good analogue (Bill and Charlie feel free to delete the ue at the end) active crossover is superior and for a cabinet designed for s specific use, I would agree. If you are using a traditional LCR crossover. A single amp plate amp is all you need.
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Bugera Veyron BV1001M The MOSFET one. - *SOLD*
Chienmortbb replied to Chienmortbb's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
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Selling one of my Bugera Veyrons . They are both the MOSFET version. Pictures will be added later today although I have added stock images until then. This one is three years old. Bugera quote 2000 watts. That is BS. However these do put out over 700 watts into 4 ohms. They are great amps but I have 5 amps and need to get rid of one. It has minor marks on the top and bottom but is always carried in a hard case. Will post for £10.
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My 12 watt Antex is that old. I have had one new element about 25 years ago. I believe that the construction transfers more heat to the tip than traditional irons. I have a 12 watt, an 18 watt and a 50 watt temperature controlled soldering station. However as Phil says for most the 25 watt one is a really good all round iron. They are made in Plymouth so you can easily contact them with any queries.
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I would not recommend that iron.
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Yes. You will need an iron capable of getting up to the higher temperatures. The Draper one above is NOT ideal. The one that @stevierecommended is fine, I always use Antex irons, the 25 watt one will do almost anything.