Chienmortbb

Warman pups come highly recommended. https://www.warmanguitars.co.uk/product/p-bass-classic-pickup-8-56kohm-and-5-21-henries/

And speaker efficiency is not measured in voice coil diameter. Such a large motor suggests an inefficient driver.

It is the same preamp and the knobs feel the same as on the V series basses, I will look at my M2 tomorrow.

I think that you mean, "some US basses approach the quality of Japanese Fenders"😇

Of course it does have 96K gold plugs.

I am not an expert but it looks like the old units use a parallel connection while this unit and pickup uses a serial connection. Having had to repair a number of Roland Drum modules, the parallel connector is the weak link, mechanically very unstable. A TRS cable is more robust but easy to pull out. Do you need the BOSS cable, is it not wired pin to pin on the TRS? If it is pin to pin it’s hard to see why a decent TRS cable would not work fine.

It’s odd. There can only be one twisted pair, is the third conductor a shield? Is so it’s a good quality TRS balanced cable. Mic cable is one twisted pair covered by a screen and it is the screen that does most of the interference suppression.

Thanks guys.

Will this work?

I knew I should have asked you, but I thought others might need to know so why not post it so others can see the answer.

I need to split mic feeds so that I can feed both monitors and FoH. The Y type cables seem like a poor way to do it so it seems that a Behringer MS8000 or ART Splitter would be needed. The ART is several times more expensive than the Behringer. Has anyone any experience of either device or another solution?

Good call. There is nothing intrinsically wrong with CTS pots, I just like to tell people that there is no magic in them. If you are not sure of doing the work yourself, a @KiOgon loom is a good solution.

Now I am fuming, I have been really trying hard NOT to add a Monza to my Monaco but you have to wax lyrical. I might as well just just two debit cards for my account and give one to LFSys. I am going to have to sell a lot of cables to make up for it or is there a section in For Sale for kidneys?

I find the UK made OMEG pots to be very good both in large and small (16mm) size. The only problem is the minimum purchase direct from OMEG. Don’t stress about using CTS pots, they were what Leo had back in the day but are by no means a gold standard, then or now. On my CIJ Aerodyne, I replace the stock pickups with DiMarzios. The Aerodyne is a P/J so only the rear pickup is a Jazz but it does give a Jazz tone in a humbucker, so noiseless. I had a long dialogue with the DiMarzio techs and used their slightly unusual wiring scheme. The result was a Tone control that works and gives a smooth sweep from bright to dull.

Most of the sound is influenced by the electronics and the wood in the neck. I doubt you could tell from a blind listening test but then, what is the point of a transparent bass if you cannot see it?

I believed him at the time, and most HIFI speakers are still made from MDF. However, working with @Phil Starr and @stevie , and with the onset of old age, I realise that careful design can make thinner, lighter materials very useable for musicians.

Were these made from MDF? I remember talking to an ex Trace chap that was going to make me an extension cab for my BLX130. He was insistent that MDF was the only material for a speaker cabinet.

Thomann are UK VAT registered. They pay vat directly to HMRC.

Strings are a composite, they can have round or hexagonal cores and round, flay, tape or even ground windings. I am not sure a mass calculation based on anything but a detailed knowledge of the core and winding material would be accurate enough.

When I researched this some years ago, even many of the solvent based finishes took weeks to fully cure. Of course there will have been advances over the years. It might help if you mentioned the type and brands you have used.

In every industry there is a company that you will “never get fired for buying”. In our industry, Fender are one and Shure is another. It does not mean that they are the best, they certainly are not always the best. if you find something that works for you, be happy, let others know but don’t ram it down the throat of others. Me? I have a Japanese Aerodyne Jazz bass, a P/J. I have never played a Jazz or Precision from the USA that I liked. I did have a Squire in the Early days that was great, wish I had never sold it. I sing BVs but do not own an SM58. I use Sontronics Solos. Of course they are made on the hill above my old house in good old Dorset but they are just a great mic. https://youtu.be/RfQCLQrsPyA Of course there is nothing wrong with Fender USA basses of Shure Microphones so please don’t look down on those poor souls that have to make do with an SM58 and a pre CBS Fender.These designs may be older than me but we can all still shake a tail feather!

You are not wrong but of course the output of some pickups when using a plectrum or slapping is much higher, from memory peaking at well over 1V and the techniques for rail splitting are not perfect. The NE5532 is one of my favourite chips but a 9V battery would drain fast with the NE5532. . Using 18V and a low power OpAmp will give a much longer time between battery changes/charges. In an ideal world basses would use 18V used to create +9, 0, -9V. That is what the chips need but it would require an on/off switch on the bass rather than rely on a stereo jack socket.

On the bright side, look how many of us have looked over there since the relaunch.

I have used half round or ground wound strings and they were great to play, however very high tension. Saying that they were the best all round strings. Low string noise, almost as bright as a good new round wound. The old Welsh made Picato Ground wounds were my favourite.