Chienmortbb

It occurs to me that I have not shown the full spec of the IRS500SMPS modules. I will post it start as well as it was an omission. The datasheet is being updated as we speak but here are the main points are shown below. Output Power: 542W at 4Ω, or 306W at 8Ω, with max. 0.1% THD+N, @230V supply voltage. Output Power: 525W at 4Ω, or 302W at 8Ω, with max. 0.1% THD+N, @120V supply voltage. Output Power on 2R load: 468W @ 1% THD+N, current limited, supplied at 230V or 120V mains voltage. Audiophile sound Quality: 0.01% THD+N at 378W at 4Ω or 198W at 8Ω @230V or @120V mains voltage. Maximum Output Power: 637W at 4Ω, or 357W at 8Ω, with max. 10% THD+N, @230V supply voltage. High efficiency: Up to 87.4% @500W on 4Ω, or up to 89.6% 300W at 8Ω with 230V mains supply voltage. Idle Power consumption: Muted: 2.5-3W; Un-Muted without Input Signal: ~8W. Full Protection set included: Short-circuit, over-current, over-temperature. Sensitivity: 1.5V for 500W on 4Ω or 1.64V for 300W on 8Ω rated output power. Amplifier gain is 29.81. Can be feed either with Balanced or Unbalanced Input signal, and a simple 3 pins Volume Potentiometer can be connected directly to the IRS500SMPS Audio Amplifier Module dedicated pins. Mute control, Status and Temperature feedback pins for controlling the amplifier status within the system. Compact size 150x50mm, and 37mm tall.

I am going to do soak testing when I can locate my dummy loads. I plans to test over a long period at 50 watts continuous and the diagram below shows how it will be wired, There will be no ancillary components or circuits, just the power amps. 50 watts has been chosen as amps are rarely driven flat out, all the time, and that is the power of my dummy loads at the moment.

I love them.

That's why he sounds so bad.

Tell someone with a classic car that it would look or drive better relic'd.

I decided to collect my thoughts by tidying the wiring diagram so here is Version 1.1. I have converted it to an image so it shows up on here. I have one more major decision to make, whether to include a level meter on the front. Nearly all power amps do and I have two options, one is a bar type display but that is 80mm long so would only fit horizontally. The other uses 5 standard LEDS and is more than good enough to see whether the amp is being over driven. I might get two prototype front panels made and then decide or I might just draw it and make a decision from the line drawings. Anyway here is the version 1.1 interconnection/wiring diagram.

Its possible I would have felt the same but I saw them live many times before buying the albums so it was the live performances that sold the band. They were probably just as pretentious as PG solo but by that time I was listening to music without Mary Jane's help.

Thinking of the old old days, I saw Genesis many times with Peter Gabriel 0he was singing, not with me) and the way he wove tales in between songs was magical. Solo he came across as a pretentious and talent less.

Yup one mistake is a mistake, two is jazz.

Many of us built the @stevie designed Basschat BC112 MK3 a few years ago. I have been using one for a few years and it is a great cabinet. If you were closer you could have tried mine. You could PM @stevie

Two cabs will give you more volume but a well designed single 12" cab will probably be all you need. Modern 12" drivers have the excursion, moving more air and with a properly designed crossover and high quality compression driver/horn combination you will probably never need another cab. Bill is right that no speaker can stand 800W continuous no matter what the manufacturers say and if a you get to even half the rated power, power compression will kick in. Beyma used to publish power compression graphs and in general half power continuous meant a power loss of about 1.5-2dB. it was closer to 4 dB at rated power. I have seen nothing to suggest other manufacturer's drivers are any different. Luckily as @Bill Fitzmaurice said, most of the time we are using a few watts. When you have cabinet with a sensitivity of say 98dB at 1W then 16 watts gets to 110dB and 128 watts gives 119db. That would be loud enough for most situations even allowing for power compression. Two cabs will give you more volume or allow you to to run them at a much lower volume. Many people run two cabs so they can hear themselves. The poor dispersion of bass drivers means that you can barely hear a cabinet around your feet. Adding a compression driver, well designed crossover and wide dispersion horn at the top of the cabinet, will allow you to hear your playing.

Surely Skid Row were a shite cover band?

This happened to me at our last gig. the strap button came out, first number second set. I did manage to catch the bass and after a few bars of bass silence, played like quasimodo to the end of the song. Unlike your bandmate I always have a multi-tool in the case and a after a short break managed a temporary repair. there were several lessons: Take a spare bass Check your equipment before leaving home. Practice catching a falling bass. There was no real trauma and I had forgotten it until I read your post.

I realise that fan noise is an anathema to many but like many things, fans are a necessary evil. On the plus side a fan can improve the cooling efficiency by up to 4 times, the downside is possible noise and the fact that fans are an electromechanical device. The best compromise is a temperature controlled fan but that adds to the cost and complexity. GK came a cropper by not fitting fans to some of their 200 watt combos. They used the ICEPower 50ASX2 in what was effectively a closed box. They added fans in the MK2 versions. The active cooling in some Aguilar amps is sub-optimal and I am sure they are not alone. Am anything be done? Yes but more on that later. As @Passinwindsaid earlier, it is possible to add passive cooling to a class D amp but that comes at the expense of weight, size and cost. Shipping is charged by weight and size so a bigger amp will cost more if everything else is equal.

I do have a travel router too that is dual band but I had trouble setting it up. I might try it again, although i do the main mix from a laptop running Ethernet.

The finer side of those nail buffers is several thousand grit. Much easier to get than a high grit paper/cloth.

I should add that I bought the 2.4GHz router in a rush, it was the only one that was available at Curry's at a reasonable price and it has not let me down. You shoud alos remember that the range of 5GHz signal is much less than 2.4GHz.

Can the words "Amber Nectar" be used in the same sentance as "Rock Star"?

I am pleasantly surprised at the responses, I half expected ridicule but there are some great contributions. Thank you.

I love the Beatles but am always amazed when someone says McCartney is a great bassist. Can someone tell me what I am missing?

As a maker of the finest bespoke cables, I insist that you return it and buy one from me at a vastly inflated price. On a serious note be sure that you get good quality connectors on a cable. Within reason, any cable will do but the connectors will let you down if they are sub standard. For example, this one will surely fail at a gig.

I was a bit hesitant to post to be honest. I know Scott has focal dystonia and that is not my problem. However the feeling I get is somewhere between pain and numbness. I suppose it is a kind of peripheral neuropathy that makes that finger feel different to the rest. The reduced feeling means all fingers feel similar. I might start wearing a fingerless glove on the other hand as the old arthritis is giving me gyp now. Good point. I will try 10 minutes glove on then glove off and see if it changes.

One of the lessons from this little blip is firstly to to get your design down on screen and/or paper before committing to any hardware and secondly to read datasheets properly. Each hole in the panel costs money so I have wasted a few £s there. On the subject of the panels, I may have already mentioned it but the holes to attach the IEC/Switch/fuse module to the panel were threaded. As a result there is no need for a nut on the inside. The extra cost was 11p per hole (£0.11). The cost of doing all the screw holes would have would have been about £2.50. It has cost more than that to buy nuts so it was a false economy to not get all the holes threaded.

Looking back at the reat panel, I now have redundant holes, the Stereo/Bridge swith and the Bridged Speakon in the centre. I have decided to put a grille over the two holes that will act as the air inlet for a small fan. The white writing will be covered by black paint as the text is all engraved and filled with white paint currently. The amplifier modules have a temperature monitoring pin each, such that I can turn a fan on, only if the temperature rises too far.

Well spotted, I missed that. However unlike the ASX series modules, the circuitry is built on the board so it does not need external bridging circuits.