Chienmortbb

True, I usually don't mind but I suppose that, despite all my efforts, I am turning into a grumpy old man.

Also true. I was going to go into a diatribe about why Voltage vs Watts but the OP probably deserves some pece and I will do it in another therad.

I think we are in danger of getting away from the OP's is asking and I am as guilty as anyone. To refine my answer. Adding a second cab will give you more SPL or acoustic output. It will be lower than 6dB (the Elf, like many amplifiers cannot sustain the double the power into 4 ohms that it can into 8 ohms. @Bill Fitzmaurice is right that I was double counting when adding in the amplifier power. I also agree with @stevie that a better speaker is better than just adding another. I owned an Ashdown Mag 300W combo and I don't think you would be happy at gig level with the Elf plus an extra cab solution. Don't get too hung up on cabinet power. The rating is thermal as most speakers (like incandescent light bulbs) produce much mucj more heat than sound. I regularly practice with my amp into an 8" cabinet rated at 80 watts (the amp is rated 350 watts into 8 ohms. As long as you are sensible your should be

Domo arigato.

Oh dear Jack please don't restart the Tonewood wars. Most of those that believe in Tonewood are actively AntiVaxing at the moment and it would not be a fair fight.

Sorry only just seen this but I would not use the Thump. They are bass heavy and not FRFR at all.

You are quite right Bill. My "favourite" knob twiddler uses an overall 😊 EQ into a pair of Mackie Thump 15 tops. Needless to say whatever I send him, the bass sounds shite. I must admit I have switched the DI from Line level to Mic after sound check and turned my amp up when he went for a comfort break. He did not notice. Luckily I have a wireless system so I could walk out front and listen.

I understand the thing that English words can mean many things but the quote above explains the formal route as it is in the UK, even now. The Doctor thing is more complex, my son-in-law is a Dr and my daughter is a Nurse, however I would rather have my daughter treating me as his PHD is in Archaeology. On an aside, I am shocked to see that 11% in the poll voted idiot. I was not one of them. We must agree to disagree on this.

You are quite right that originally Engineers, like Stevenson etc designed and made engines. Which of course counters my claim to be an engineer. Although the creation of sound has a lot to do with fluid dynamics, I rather feel that getting a good mix is an art. Of course someone that mends a kettle is a Technician or maybr a Kettle Mender?

I was with you until you said art is like engineering. I do believe that it is a very skilled job and although I have designed mixers, I could not do a decent mix to save my life.

I have been using the BC112 MK3 for a couple of years and it is as near to an FRFR cab as you will get. So I set mys sound up as I like it. Would it be right to insist on sending a Post EQ signal to the PA? Amps like the Trace Elliot Elf only have a Post DI so unless there is a separate DI supplied, it has to be post anyway.Also with so many of us using pedals the notion of Pre DI seems of little use unless (as is usual) I am missing something.

I think I know his brother Ricky.

There were some punk bands that would have fitted that description. Sorry got to dash, writing a thread dissing guitarists

Damn you have me sussed. In reality I am a little protective of the term Engineer but my real point is that is it not very descriptive of the role. Yes and quite frequently at concerts where other bands are playing. I make a point of standing just behind the desk if it does not sound right ,as it should at least sound good there. Often it does not. However I do have a great deal of respect for those that reall know what they are doing and perhaps I should not have added the last option to the poll.

Hobby Horse warning. I hear a lot of people calling the person that twiddles the knobs, a Sound Engineer or Sound Man. To me both are wrong, I am an Engineer, I studied Mechnical and Electronic Engineering for 7 years before I was allowed to use the letters IEng after my name. So he/she is not an engineer. As a rule of thumb an Engineer designs it and a Technician fixes it when it goes wrong. Sound man is sexist. To diffrentiate the person from the machine that records, the BBC calls the operator of a tape recorder a recordist. So should we call them Mixists or does that sound like a member of Momentum that reads Socialist Worker? Sound Technician? Well that does not fit my rule of thumb but then rule of thumb is not really a rule at all. So if I eliminate Engineer and Man as suffixes (its my thread, I'll do what I want), what shoulkd we call them that accurately describes their job. Please avoid the expletives that I have often emitted when at concerts and the Kick Drum eliminates everything for about a second every time it is hit/kicked,

I suspect you Elf into two 10s will be loud enough for most gigs. You will get 2-3 dB extra from the amp and 3-6dB extra from two vertical cabs. One thing to note is that the Elf's DI is post DI. So your EQ settings will affect the DI feed. Some Sound Techs might ask for a pre-EQ DI. In which case I suggest an Orchid Classic DI http://orchid-electronics.co.uk/classic_DI.htm.

I was watching a video about carbon fibre panels recently and the conclusion was that without reinforcement, they are not that useful. To make a usable panel you need reinforcement to stiffen the panel (obviously reducing resonances). That leads to the next problem, the edges. These were the most vulnerable part of the panel. Now I am not saying that carbon fibre panels are no good for speaker cabinets. However they need a lot of work and expertise to get a useable panel. You can see in the video that even the best of the three panels flexes under the weight. Not a problem in a car, or a graphite neck with but a high quality speaker cabinet is more demanding.

Felix was Gerrman but is was the Japanese that made the Wankel engine work commercially. Sadly I cannot fit one on my pedal board.

Interesting. I tried the M version again today but this time with my Yammy RBX375. The last time I used it was with my Samick Greg Bennet Royale, the Semi-acoustic shown in my profile picture. This time I tried the gain in every position and it never went i to fuzz, just a warm overdrive that I love. Mt Samick must have a much higher output than the Yamaha 5.

My local music store, Absolute music set up their demo gear before it goes on display (or sometimes ot a label saying "just in, not yet set up by our technicians"). They also set it up free of charge unless you ask them not to. I cannot say how well instruments ordered online are dispatched.

Yes I have found Chris great when I have contacted him,

Like you I can do the tests but only have a Smoothound system. I will test it in the next couple of days.

The clue on Fenders (at least those I have on my beater bass) is the coloured ball ends. They went from their own make to D'Addarios some years ago. However the feel and sound the same to me. "Meh" just about sums it up.

You write bass heavy or do you mean full range, such that you can hear the bass? If you really want bass heavy then go for some Beats. They feature exagerated bass. Alternatively the usual suspects above, to which I would add the Superlux range that always come well recomended. I use a pair of Panasonic's that would exceed your budget but can be used both wired and with bluetooth..

With the plethora of small lightweight heads, I would go for something a little more powerful. From TC the BQ500 is only a little heavier but much more versatile. The Ashdown RM500 Evo 2 is more expensive but still lightweight and there are others. The 250-300 watt heads are really only putting out about 100-130 watts.