Chienmortbb

The more pics the better.

This is bringing back memories. looking good.

I should have known better than to invoke the DoI. It’s like I broke the pentangle and let the demon breakthrough from one reality into that other dark place, speaker building. Now it’s time for me (no one else can do it) to invoke the straight banana sending all DoI Demons back to the Den from whence they came.

I think wwe just hijacked the Den of Iniquity thread.

Answer: It depends how well you roll them!

There is no such thing as a silly question. only silly answers.

I bought most of OBBM's stock when he retired and have since added to it.

That shows Shuko power sockets as used don la continong.

I use mainly Neutrik. The plugs are solid construction, wheras many jacks are riveted and can come loose. For other brands it depends on the range. The HiCon silent jacks are superb.

Unless you are using a bass/guitar with a Strat type input plate, I find it best to use right angled jack at the instrument end and a straight at the amp. The only basses that use the Strat type input plate to my knowledge are the later Fender Aerodynes If you are going into a pedal or pedal board you may need right angled at both ends. In my opinion right angled jacks tend to stay put when pulled so are a beeter bet. There is no technical reason why you shpuld shosse one over the other though. I make all my own cables and sell a few to fellow basschatters so I am a little biased. However most branded cables should be avoided. The long moulded plug covers or long pieces of heat shrink, often hide poor quality components I have heard good things about Planet Waves. Lynx make good cables and Designacables are recommended by many on here. If you want a quote or just advice, eithe repy or DM me.

Bill and you are correct as my comment missed one vital parameter, frequency. It assumes a fixed frequency and ignores the effects of power compression. I am also fully aware of both the power law and ohms law and it is nice to see others are too.

The saying's go "no news is good news" and "good things come to those who wait" Well both or neither could be true here. I was told it would be 4-5 weeks for the rear panel and accepted that, Sadly the Class D modules seem to be lost somewhere in Chine. I am wondering if the decisions I took were correct. Ironically the "VU" meter had arrived and I will investigate that more later. So the next decision is when to cut my losses and raise a PayPal dispute? I notice that many power amps on Thomann are now showing short lead times and I keep saying to myself that the build was really an excuse to learn about DSP.... More shortly.

Yes but amplifiers supply WATTS to an impedance.

This is almost correct. If we assume that both amplifier amd speaker are substantially linear, then the correalation between watts and SPL is also linear. As we approach the limits of either amplifier of speaker the linearity can reduce.

To be useable you need 16 ohm drivers which will off 5.33r ohms to the amplifier. Actually sounds a good idea.

Mackie Tops are also far from ideal. To be fair I am talking about the Thump series and I have not come across a more overated (power wise) or poorly designed product, but then I don't get out much.

The thing is that the impedance is probably the problem. It is likely that the cabinets drop below the minimum impedance that the amp can handle at some of the peaks at some frequencies. I agree that using one channel to each cabinet would almost certainly solve the problem. It would give each channel an easier time.

I had a Sound City 100W head with two 4x12s in my yoof. The sound was glorius. There was a depth too that you cannot get from a diddiy combo. I particularly hate the sound of a Fender Combo with a Telecaster on te bridge pickup.

@JohnDaBassFaital Pro are great drivers but be aware their XMax figures are measured in a different way to most companies giving a more favourable result. You can also over spec a speaker. @stevietold us of a driver he had tested that looked great on paper. Despite modelling well it was not as good as another driver that looked worse on paper.

When you look at @Phil Starr's 6" cab it seesm PJB have missed a trick. Adding a lightweight amo to the PSB6 (Phil Starr Bass 6") woiuld make a real mini monster. Good for home practise and small gigs,

From memory, the DP122 and DP123 make up the P/J set sold as the DiMarzio DP126. I bought a set from @Doodand I love them. I did this with the Di Marzio when I installed it. Seemed to suck ALL the warmth out to me but YMMV

Or both.

I had an old Hofner Guitar that had flats on when I bought it, No string noise, hardly any noise at all. They were used a lot by Jazz guitarists (is that word allowed?).

I cannot see the point of flats on Js or 'rays but then I can't see the point of Js or 'rays. On a serious note, their are two reasons for flats, smoothness of the string and that old school sound. I suppose you could add wear on a fretless. So although less useful on StingJays, they do have some merit.

The box would consist of three speakons, one from the amp and the other two to the speakers. However the cabs would be wired in series, presenting 8 ohms to the cab. That would reduce the power output but adding the second cab might mitigate that.