Chienmortbb

In that picture it looks much better akthough the font is still an issue.

You are unlikely to get a circuit diagram for Pascal/Icepower/|Hypex etc. They guard what they believe is their IP closely.

Having just looked at a Mark Bass Nano, Italian Style has taken on a whole new meaning. I have nicknamed it the NoNo.

I'll just get my sunnies to look at that. 😎 OK even with sunglasses it looks like the cosmetic design department at MB is still run by visibly impaired people.

I fondly remember microphonic valves.... NOT. On a serious note and getting back to the topic. |I don't need my Fender Aerodyne, my £50 Peavey P bass in more than adequate and has been gigged many times. However there is a wonderful feeling when I pick up the Aerodyne. I think some people get the same feeling from some valve amps. You don't need a valve head. However you may want one and if the itch is persistant why not scratch it.

I could not agree more, if only someone would make an offer for my Greg Bennet. It's almost the same honest.

Nice fellow, easy to deal with.

If we are looking at pedals of vcourse the other issue is buffers. Some have them and some do not. in the world of 6 and 7 strings, many favour the "true bypass" method where the input signal is wired directly to the output when the pedal is ,or bypassed. Boss pedals usually have a buffer but many boutique pedals favour the true bypass route. Running a few pedals (many guitarists use more than a few) means the signal passes thrugh lots of pedals through lots of switches. If all the pedals are true bypass and the guitar/bass is passive it can relly add lots of capacitance and screw your signal. An active bass can usually handle this better. On the other hand you don't want your signal to go through many extra electronic buffers that could add noise. I am doubtful that all pedals use the best components so the fewer pedals the better.

Some manufactureres do state the imput impedance of their amplifiers, some do not. Usually active signals are low impedance although that does depend on the design of the onboard preamp. If the volume control(s) are before the last opamp in the preamp, the output impedance will be between a few ohms and a few hundred ohms. If the volume control is after the last opamp, it will be determined by volume potentiometer. In a passive bass the potentiometers, capacitor(s) and pickups determine the output impedance and it will vary depending on the position of the potentiometers. In general the output impedance of a passive bass will be in the 10,000-100,000 Ohms region.

Hopefully you will hear today, give them a call.

Happens to us all.

Give it to me and I will make sure your wish is carried out.🤞 I have always wanted a Status Bass to help a fellow bassist with his final request.

If you are OK with DIY. how about one of @stevie 's cabs. The BC112 MK3 is 15KG or the new 10" Lockdown Cab will be just over 10Kg.

I think that is the situation in two sentances. My HiWatt 120 was my pride and joy, then it was stolen back in the 70s. I began working for EMI on the electronics side in 1968, the only devices that looked or worked anything like a valve/tube were the magnetrons used radar (this was well before microwave ovens). Working in electronics, I knew valves were obsolescent so never bought another valve amp. Nowadays there is no reseaech into thermionic valves/vacuum tubes. All the big makers have gone, RCA/GE/Mullard/Telefunken have either gone completely or moved with the times. As far as I know now all the new valves (and the vast amount of NOS) are made on the original machines that are older than me (69 and counting) either in China or Russia*. I have no idea how close these are to the original specs but I suspect many woukd have been out of spec when produced. Neeless to say I have not changed my mind. * Having done more research, it seems that ,JJ Valves are made in the Slovak republic.

A you probably know I built the 12" Mk3 with tweeter and now when I play without one I feel I am missing something. I would not trust one that has a switch for the tweeter or an adjustment of any sort , EQ belongs on your amp not your cabinet.

My Aerodyne. the one on the left. It has had new machineheads, Gotoh Res-o-Lites and new pickups, Di Marzio 126 set. No matter what else I play. I always end up with it. Also my Peavey Milestone (P clone). It cost £50 and should be rubbish but it is not. Plywood body but it has a superb neck and plays and sounds great. Sorry no picture of that at the moment. The bass on the right is a Greg Bennet by Samick. I could live with just that but it does not speak to me like tye other two and os currentky for sale m

Yes because they are so hard they are a b*gg*r to work with when levelling, crowning.

I have been thinking about getting some Newtones and you have just convinced me.

I have a Zoom B1 Four and it really is an impressive bit of kit. Nice review of the cabinet John.

Nice work John

Does it happen with the preamp disconnected? If so I agree with @Stub Mandrel also put a capacitor from +V to 0V just after thr diode, or if one is alrready there, increase it. Power down noises of many types are caused by the removal of power to an opamp.

As @Stevie says the amps should be set to be flat to start with and for some amps flat is not all EQ knobs at 12 o'clock. I did a frequency sweep of both my Ashdown MiBass 2.0 and Bugera Veyron (mosfet model) and both were flat at 12 o'clock but I don't believe the Tonehammers are. Of course some amps e.g. Ashdown RM500 have an EQ defeat switch, most useful for this purpose.

If you are running from a battery then the voltage should be quite clean. Can you run the preamp directly from that?

You mentioned it first? To be fair, the PF500 was unreliable until the 7th/8th iteration of the PCB. It was the biggest debacle in the MI amplification world I can remember. It suggests a lack of design engineers at Ampeg, one that hopefully the new regime has corrected.