Dubs

One I thought of last night, and rather fitting in some circumstances – DICK – Drunk In Charge of Keyboard!

[quote name='dannybuoy' post='324593' date='Nov 7 2008, 11:27 PM']The TBers were saying they wanted parametric mids and switchable tube/FET channels, it looks like they responded.[/quote] It’s a pity they didn’t ask for a more solid build quality…

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='324525' date='Nov 7 2008, 09:41 PM']Judging by the photo, your other half is a bit of a looker too. Well done on both fronts, son. [/quote] [quote name='Thunderthumbs' post='324572' date='Nov 7 2008, 10:59 PM']Ha ha......I was waiting for one. I'm sure everyone else was just too polite [/quote] the action is great as well…

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='324515' date='Nov 7 2008, 09:26 PM']I've used it before, the finish looked nice but didn't feel pro (I know it isn't so I can't expect miracles)[/quote] I would have thought that it isn’t think enough for a start, being that it’s designed to be sprayed on metal? I dunno though, just a guess. I suppose if you do it in lots and lots of very light layers and sanded with very fine sandpaper in between coats then I’d guess that you would end up with a very smooth finish that could be finished nicely with a good lacquer? I’ve got no idea though. Do some research on polyurethane paint maybe? That’s what I might use, but I’ve never painted a guitar before. This might help - [url="http://www.paintyourownguitar.com/faqs.html"]http://www.paintyourownguitar.com/faqs.html[/url]

[quote name='alexclaber' post='324462' date='Nov 7 2008, 08:20 PM']Ben, that's a fair question and seven or eight years ago I'd have asked exactly the same! Since then I've learnt a lot about speaker design and acoustics (though I did do a mechanical engineering degree previously and have messed around with loudspeakers since I was in short trousers!) so let me explain how I can make that statement: Back in the '60s a couple of very clever Aussies, Mr Thiele and Mr Small, came up with an electrical equivalent circuit for a loudspeaker and enclosure which could thus be analysed using standard electrical transfer functions to very accurately establish the response of a loudspeaker below ~200Hz (above this frequency it gets more complicated and you have to work by a combination of measurements and modelling due to the output no longer being totally omnidirectional and the speaker no longer totally pistonic in its operation). All speaker manufacturers worth considering provide comprehensive thiele/small specs for their woofers and you can use modelling software to accurately predict the response of a speaker and thus the max LF SPL (you can even do it on paper but that's more longwinded!) The overwhelming factor in determining the max LF SPL of a loudspeaker is its Vd (volume displacement) which is equal to its Xmax (max linear excursion) multiplied by its Sd (radiating surface area) - the other key factors are the sensitivity in the lows (does the cabinet have enough internal volume to allow the woofer to move easily - too little volume increases the impedance at low frequencies due to increased back pressure) and the port tuning (if the port is tuned too low you lose max SPL at the critical frequencies, if it's tuned too high it doesn't go low enough) and sizing (if the port is too small in area it does not operate linearly and thus restricts output). I searched and searched for years for the ultimate woofer for producing as much LF SPL as possible for bass guitar use and I kept coming back to this same model. In a suitably sized cabinet it flattens everything else commercially available and although there are a select few woofers you can buy that can produce even more LF SPL from a similar sized cab they are extortionately expensive and need much much more power to reach that SPL. So no, I haven't tested everything and I don't need to! I have modelled hundreds of designs using woofers from Eminence, Fane, B&C, Beyma, 18sound, Celestion, BMS et al. and I have a pretty comprehensive knowledge of what's on the market and roughly how it performs quantitatively. Hope that helps, let me know if you want to know more or want anything clarifying. Alex[/quote] I hear what you’re saying mate, and I really do understand what you’ve said there, but I can’t agree with you. I don’t want to start another debate about enclosure design, so I’m happy to leave it here and agree to disagree

Regardless of what you should be using, I don’t think you should be using car paint.

Cheers for the comments guys

[quote name='Galilee' post='324493' date='Nov 7 2008, 08:54 PM']coughThumbcough[/quote] The Thumb BO went a couple of months ago, but unbeknown to me at the time, it ended up part funding the SSII. [i]When[/i] I get a Thumb again, I think it’ll have to be a JD

[quote name='alexclaber' post='324419' date='Nov 7 2008, 07:14 PM']Just pointing out that drthirkenstein is quantifiably wrong about low frequency sound pressure levels attainable from certain lightweight neo magnet speaker cabinets - my own design is an obvious example for which I know the precise performance and am 100% certain that you cannot buy any other bass guitar cabinet of similar size (not weight!) which can produce as much LF SPL. If he said he didn't like the sound of them then fair enough! Alex[/quote] That’s quite a bold claim. Have you tested [i]everything[/i] on the market then?

is this a photoshop job?

I definitely agree with all those who have said that it’s great the way it is. If money to keep the site open was tight, or if money was needed for bespoke software development, then a possible stream of revenue might be to sell Basschat attire? Just simple stuff like T Shirts and Hoodies etc… I’d buy one anyway, and I’d prefer to support the site by buying something like that than having to put up with sh*t loads of ads like TalkBass. I think developing the affiliates forum into more of a shop front could work and potentially be great, but only in a separate section to the affiliates forum as it is now. One thing that I would like say is that I hate all the myface and spaceface sh*t, so I’d definitely prefer not have any “social networking” of that kind. I only use Facebook because I feel socially bullied into keeping my finger on the pulse…but I think the idea of a “live chat room” that Wayne mentioned might be interesting, but possibly difficult to moderate.

Great – I’ve been looking for one of these, and it’s such good value that I might ask if they have another so I can buy 2!! Or not… - [url="http://www.mveducation.com/invt/43562/"]http://www.mveducation.com/invt/43562/[/url] - Good advertising technique though.

[quote name='Rumble' post='323688' date='Nov 6 2008, 07:39 PM']Having looked at it again tonight, it really seems to be an issue with the bridge position rather than PUP's. This leaves me with two possible choices:- 1) find a bridge to go in the original screw holes with a 20mm spacing 2) re drill the current bridge 2mm to the right and slightly forward or back, of the current ones (a disaster waiting to happen!)[/quote] Fill the holes in and start again with the bridge position? Personally I would avoid re-drilling anything close to the original holes if they weren’t filled in.

[quote name='Josh' post='323496' date='Nov 6 2008, 03:21 PM']Is one definetly settled with the SS2 now??[/quote] indeed. It sounds too good

My 3 Streamers - [attachment=15664:stdcrop.jpg] [size=7]+[/size] [attachment=15662:SSIcrop.jpg] [size=7]+[/size] [attachment=15663:SSIIcrop.jpg] [size=7]= [/size] From Left to Right: 2004 Streamer Standard – 2000 Streamer Stage I – 1998 Streamer Stage II

Screw you guys, these are going down the tip

[quote]What kills a valve?[/quote] A hammer [size=1]I'll get my coat...[/size]

[quote name='Telebass' post='322981' date='Nov 5 2008, 09:16 PM']Axesrus used to bring them in...[/quote] Yeah I've tried there...

These – [attachment=15645:DSC01715.JPG] Who wants ‘em? Take one or the other or both, I don’t care, I just want rid, and sharpish First person to shout “BAGSIE MINE!!” gets them