Basvarken

Easy fix 😉 Here's what a friend of mine did:

Got many requets for a video demo of this bass. So I caved in and made on this morning 😉

Kings X shouldn't be a problem

Trust me, it is never easy.

Made a label and glued it in Cut the top nut (string guide) from a piece of buffalo horn. I used the brass template the ETS provided with the bridge Mounted the tuners. Had to modify the carbon base plates of the (light weight) Gotoh CXB-01 tuners that I used for the octave strings. Because the "ears" were overlapping each other.

After lots of checking and measuring I finally glued the neck in Then drilled the holes for the controls And stained the back a dark mahogany (with a dash of red) The quilted maple top was going to get a cherry burst First did the yellow stain. And then (while still wet) did the red outline. And feathered it out to make nice smooth gradient. Then built up lots of layers of clear After lots of sanding and polishing I mounted the pickups and hardware

Routed the body outline (along the template of course) Then routed the binding channel Glued the pearloid binding in The routed the neck pocket. And shaped the heel

Back to the neck: Made the side markers Then started shaping the neck profile Drilled the tuners holes

Sawed the headstock angle. And planed it nice and smooth Made the truss rod cover Glued the fretboard onto the (roughly shaped) neck While that dried took to the mahogany body blank. First off I routed the controls cavity Then switched to the other side to route the chambering Did some free hand routing for the wiring channel Before glueing the quilted maple top onto the chambered body I had to saw the tri-angular shaped F-holes

Started with the fretboard this time: Then shifted my attention to the neck. Routed the slots for the carbon reinforcement strips plus two spoke wheel truss rods

Ladies and gentlemen; I proudly present a new Brooks Bass! The EXB-12-SA. A semi-hollow twelve string bass. - Mahogany body. Chambered - Quilted Maple top, bookmatched - Nine ply laminated Mahogany set neck. Glued in - Cherry Burst finish. Naturel Mahogany back and sides - Pearloid binding - Ebony fretboard - Abalone position dots. Aluminium ring in 12th position - Jumbo frets - 34" scale - Buffalo horn nut - Custom made twelve string brass bridge set, gold plated - Two spokewheel double action truss rods - Carbon reinforcement strip in the neck - Lace Alumitone Bass Bar in the neck position - Lace Alumitone Bass Bar in the bridge position - Pure Tone output. Gold plated - Toggle switch (single coil/humbucker). Gold plated - Gotoh GB 350 lightweight bass tuners, Gold plated - Gotoh Stealth CXB-01 guitar tuners. Gold plated - d'Addario EXL 170 - 12 strings - Weight: 4.1 kg Serial number: 2025001 I'll post pics of the build process in separate posts below

The bass on the left was built by me 10 years ago. I used Gibson lo-z guitar pickups plus the original wiring loom. The bass on the right is my favorite bass; the 1969 Gibson Les Paul Bass. Here's a few more pics:

I completed this build last month

Yeah! 2024 ended exceptionally well with no less than two Brooks bass guitars in the Top10 of No Treble. And 2025 continues that with yet another Brooks bass featured as Bass of the Week! https://www.notreble.com/buzz/2025/01/20/bass-of-the-week-the-upgraded-brooks-1-2-short-scale-inspired-by-a-classic/

And recorded the inevitable video demo of course

Before I set to work on the pore filling I decided to make the hole for the rotary switch a bit wider. Not only for better access in the wiring process, but also because this was going to accommodate an Apple Air Tag. I made a hidden compartment in the back controls cover. Then did the pore filling prior to the staining. Stained the back, sides and neck in a dark mahogany color Stained the top red Sprayed several layers of clear After several layers of clear it was time to aplly the decals Just like the Brooks 1 that I built 14 years ago, this bass was ging to get a hidden tone knob. Why hidden? I like the clean look on the top side of a bass. And I very rarely use a Tone pot anyway. So I made a bracket from a sheet of aluminum And mounted it inside the controls cavity A little hole on the controls cover gives access to the tone pot. My good friend Sjoerd made a wiring diagram to my specs. And he took care of the soldering It's a clever switch! 1. Neck humbucker 2. Outer coils as humbucker 3. Both humbuckers 4. Neck humbucker + inner Bridge coil out of phase 5. Inner coils as humbucker 6. Bridge humbucker

Took the finger plane and got to work to create the contouring of the top. Routed the pickup cavities Drilled the holes for the rotary switch ans Volume pot Dry fitted the neck. Started to look like proper bass already! Took the neck back out to work on the headstock. Glued the ebony faceplate on. Drilled the holes for the machine heads I always drill from two sides. Making the holes on the back a slightly narrower diameter. The Hipshot Ultralite tuners have a very small footprint, and if you drill the hole as wide as the bushing on the front you will see gaps. Made some paste with rosewood dust and wood glue to fill up the gaps underneath the fret tangs. Then did the final profiling of the neck While I test fitted the neck once again I noticed the string spacing of the bridge was not going to workout with the pickups. So I decided to buy a different bridge. Instead of the wide travel Thunderbrid bridge that I had planned originally I chose to use a Guyker two point bridge. The latter has a narrower string spacing, which would work better with the Mudbuckers. (Pic from another build) Then drilled the bridge stud holes. And string-through-body holes

Switched back to the fretboard again Hammered in the frets. And made the trussrod access slot. Plus (rosewood) cover. Routed the trussrod slot in the neck blank. And chiseled the part for the spokewheel by hand. Glued the fretboard on (sorry again, no pics) And then made the side position markers Started the shaping of the neck. Using a Shinto raps, spokewheel plane and cabinet scraper. Routed the neck pocket And stated make the heel fit. Nowhere near yet in this pic 😉 Getting closer to the desire angle. Note how I have the bridge on a pice of brass to emulate the bridge stud thickness. Needed to create some extra height for this part of the binding

Routed profile for the controls covers. Next I routed the channel for the binding. Note how thick the top was! Glued in the cream colored binding. Using acetone, because it leaves no glue residue that might affect the later staining.

After that first channel was routed I started to work on the weight reduction. I was going to route a large tone chamber in the upper bout of the body. I first used Forstner bit to drill away most of the wood in that area. Then cleaned up the tone chamber with the router. Routed the hole for the rotary switch on the upper horn. And chiseled the last part of the channel away by hand Roughly cut out the outline shape. I weighed the body and came to the conclusion it was going to be too heavy. So I decided to do some more weight relief. Made sure i didn't drill where any structural parts would be mounted. Next step was to glue the thick flamed maple top onto the body And then routed along the body outline template. Sorry, no pics of the actual routing.

About one year ago I got an email from a gentleman from France who had found my website and he asked me to do a remake of the Brooks 1. This is the very first bass I ever built. Based on my personal favorite: my 1969 Gibson Les Paul bass. Guillaume told me his new years resolution was to quit smoking. And as a reward for himself he wanted me to build this bass. In June he was confident he had quit smoking for good. And he placed the order. Since I was busy building two other bass guitars, I told him I would be able to start the build in the fall of this year. It gave me time to order all the parts and the wood. In october I started the actual build. First off was the fretboard. Made the ring inlay for the 12th position. I use an aluminum tube for this. And for the inside of the ring I made a rosewood circle. After that I drilled the holes for the regular dot inlays Glued the abalone dots and the aluminum ring in and sanded everything to the desired radius(16") At the FabLab I lasercut templates (the 15 year old templates were no longer usable) I used plexiglass. Laser cutting works extremely well with this material. And laser cutting MDF is not allowed, because it emits toxic gas. First thing I routed was the wiring channel which runs in a diagonal line across the body.

The birth of a new Brooks bass: Ladies and Gentlemen I give you the Brooks 1.2. It's a remake of the very first bass I built (now 14 years ago). But with a few modifications. - 30 1/2" scale - Two piece mahogany body. Chambered - Flamed maple top. Bookmatched - Colour of the top: Wine red. - Colour of the back and neck: Walnut - Three piece mahogany neck - Dual action Spokewheel truss rod - Rosewood fretboard - Cream colored binding - Guyker two point bridge. - String through body ferrules - Hipshot tuners - Bone nut - Artec sidewinder humbuckers AlNiCo - 6 way rotary switch 1. Neck humbucker 2. Outer coils as humbucker 3. Both humbuckers 4. Neck humbucker + inner Bridge coil out of phase 5. Inner coils as humbucker 6. Bridge humbucker - Volume pot CTS 500k - Hidden Tone pot CTS 500k I'll post pics of the build process in several posts below.

There was a time when I checked Ebay every day. Each time when I saw one of these pop up, I put a bid on it. And I won several auctions. But that was over 10 - 15 years ago. Haven't bought one in ages. Tried to build my own at a certain point, but that project never came to fruition... https://www.facebook.com/basvarken/videos/483578832934300

And here's another. A short scale semi-acoustic bass from the Czech brand BaCH. Originally it had just one mudbucker at the neck. Just like an EB-2 I put two Gibson lo-z stacked humbuckers from a Les Paul Bass in it. Did not install a three position selector switch for the three coil taps on each pickup. But decided to only wire the full windings of each pickup. The toggle is to chose neck, both or bridge pickup.

I used one of those in my modified Pearl Export Bass too. This Pearl originally was identical to the Epiphone Genesis Bass. With chrome cased humbuckers. But I replaced the original pickups with a Gibson lo-z stacked humbucker from a Les Paul Bass in the middle position. And a Gibson lo-z stacked humbucker for a Les Paul Recording Guitar in the bridge position. As you can see the guitar pickup is a bit smaller than the bass pickup.