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Or you could use YouTube & Google & do it yourself.

My first thought was the first few replies... Get a small mixer. As for headphones, make sure the mixer you get has a headphone out (or two). As for portable combos that you can gig with, I've had bass & lekky drums doing exactly what you want. A mixer into a Markbass combo. Did it at a beer festival & regularly at church.

changing your pickups can make a huge difference, as can the height of them. Changing the height alters the tone too.

The cab was the limiting factor. It can only produce as many decibels as the drivers will allow. It doesn't matter how many watts are thrown at a cab, watts don't make decibels. There's many factors to take into account. Like other posts, it may be where you was standing in relation to the cab. Too close or off axis & it can have quite an impact on how you hear yourself.

Have you tried a MarkBass cab? I say try, as some folk love them & some don't. They're certaintly light & loud & I think they sound fantastic.

When you get down to the lower notes (as in E string 5th fret) the octave down note is going to sound more like a large rubber band & the chances of your cab dealing with the note & holding the bottom end are most likely very little. Though you do say that the octave on its own sounds fine, which makes me think the LS2 or similar would be a solution.

& all this can change depending on what sort of music you want to play. I ended up playing electronica & the effects became more expensive than my bass! Great fun though.

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1415659926' post='2602553'] As i said there are obvious times to use it. [/quote] Good point. But if everyone chose not to use to sell & only to buy, then you wouldn't be able to use it.

2 Qs. How is the octave set? Is it -1 (or -2) octave only or is there the original note with it? How far down is the "lower register"? Is it below Bb? Can your rig produce these lower notes an octave (or two) down? Other thing. The overdrive could be cutting out low end below a given note (many dirt pedals do). If so, you can split the signal after the octave, keep 1 clean & put the other through the dirt & then sum them back together, that will fix that scenario. A Boss LS2 would do.

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1415648702' post='2602410'] ....and there are obvious reasons at times to use it. [/quote] In most cases it seems only to favour the buyer.

[quote name='MiltyG565' timestamp='1415642666' post='2602315'] Their fees alone are pretty crazy. Something like 30p per transaction + 3.4% of the final sale, plus a monthly subscription. [/quote] They're neqrly as greedy as the government!

I've never used paypal for years. Don't agree with their fees, their terms & I don't trust them, especially in instances where if the buyer claims its a fake, they refund the buyer & the buyer destroys/keeps the item (even if their claim is false). Leaving the seller out of pocket. I'd rather use WUMT!

MarkBass 2x10 combo. Excellent sound, very loud & a 1 handed carry. Only reason I'm selling mine is because I don't gig anymore & it's not getting used.

I didn't use a compressor live. Couldn't get on with them. Only time I used compression was on recordings.

[quote name='Kevin Dean' timestamp='1415434937' post='2600223'] I found a test report that stated the 500w frame produced 534 watts continues & 659 watts peak , The 600w digital frame 488 continues & 497 peak , The 800watt 635 continues & 817 peak . I'll probably stick to the 500w frame as it has the same power sectiom as in my Little rocker & all the other similar heads . [/quote] You'd be best to try each out & hear which one you prefer. ignore how many watts it says, it's pretty much an irrelevant figure.

So 2 pages on & have you got what the essential basic kit is yet? Patience & deeeep pockets!

I'd say try it & use your ears to check how it sounds. I've put the IPad running Animoog throught my Markbass & it sounded awesome. My old bass setup was using effects to make my bass sound like a synth, getting synth like lows & that sounded awesome too.

Could be one of the patch leads with the jack wired backwards, or maybe that's the solution?

Get yourself to Guitarguitar in Corstorphine, take the aggy & your bass with you & try out some cabs. There's plenty decent shops around Edinburgh & Glasgow that stock a variety of stuff. One man's awesome is another's awful.

Good leads. Nowt worse than a buzzy cheapo lead.

The "Groove" isn't a genre or style of music, it fits in many genres & styles. You get a fast groove, a funky groove, a slow groove & so on. The groove is what makes people move. It's about the locking together & making the listener feel the rhythm. The first song that came to my mind when I read the title was this... http://youtu.be/RDxSXvL9ZFs But tomorrow it might be something different.

[quote name='ead' timestamp='1415004025' post='2595408'] Just out of interest, and using the Dingwall price list from last year, I spec'ed up an ABZ 4-string to as close as I could get to my ACG custom fretless. The Dingwall came in at just over £4k (inc. VAT and import duty) whilst my admittedly 'straight' ACG fretless was just under £1.7k. ACG will do fanned frets for a couple of hundred pounds more. The only thing I couldn't quite replicate was the preamp. The ACG has a dual filter preamp compared to 3-band Glock item available on Dingwalls. I do understand that these are not everybody's cup of tea, but to be fair cost pretty much the same as a John East U Retro. I genuinely can't see where the extra £2.3k goes. For the price of the Dingwall I could buy an ACG custom fretless, an ACG Standard fretless and an ACG Graft fretless bass and still have about £50 left. [/quote] I think it's a "currency bump" thing. Import duties & the government rip offs are included. I nearly bought a Dingwall ABZ 8 years ago when I was in the US. It was $2700, which at the time would have been @ £1300.

[quote name='ead' timestamp='1414967030' post='2595236'] They have lines [/quote] True. But I'm sure if you wanted, they'd make an unlined one.

[quote name='ead' timestamp='1414947773' post='2594944'] I've had both, although as a player of absolutely average ability it took me more than the standard 27 seconds to get used to them. That having been said once I got my head around it transition between the two (when the basses were fretted) was OK. Personally I do enjoy playing fretless and the transition between a Dingwall and a "straight" fretless was trickier which is why I'm back on straight frets. I also have an issue with the value for money on DIngwalls. When you think what you could buy for the £2k plus that passive Dingwall ABZs and AB1s cost without many extras, there is a lot of choice out there for a lot less money albeit with straight frets. I would only ever buy secondhand were I to go down that road again. [/quote] Simple solution... Get a fretless Dingwall.