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My tip for getting a good band sound is to turn the bass down on the guitars. If they turn it back up, swap instruments with them.

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1409582165' post='2541117'] I bet these could use it... http://youtu.be/WIKqgE4BwAY [/quote] That's 2 styles of music I never ever expected to hear put together! Makes me think of Ridge Racer for some reason.

? Most of the 2x10s I see are 8 ohm. Most 2x12s I see are 4 ohm, but either could be gotten in 4 or 8 ohm, brand depending.

[quote name='spacey' timestamp='1409580718' post='2541097'] Think speaker inches. 1x15 is 15 inches of paper moving air. 4x10 is 40 inches moving air. In a cab the same size it's a no brainier the 4x10 will win. A 4x10 and 2x10 that can be used at smaller gigs + rehearsals is good if you can get a 8 ohm 2x10 or they end up doing the work whilst the 4x10 idles. You have combinations then. Rehearsal/ small gig 2x10 Pub gig 4x10 huge gig 4x10 +2x10 [/quote] Not quite, but the sentiment is right. It's how much mass is being covered. 4 10's are covering more mass than a 15, but not almost 3 times as much. A 15 will have slightly more mass than a 2x10. There's another recent thread on here about the downside of adding a 2x10 to a 4x10, getting an even volume to the drivers (by using either a 4Ω & 8Ω cab) & the dangers of overloading your amp. A good 2x10/12 will cover most medium sized gigs. Add another for the big gigs.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1409563944' post='2540815'] I have an old SWR 400 which runs VERY hot and has no fan. They added them later but you'd jump if you touched the chassis after running a while. Putting them in a flight case would need some thinking about IMO to allow it to breathe. I have had it well over 20 years from new and it failed on me once when it was knocked from a cab to the ground under power. The amp tech said it was very good component spec inside ...and they were known for that way back, so I think they were built to run very hot and used quality parts to do so. I don't think you'd get those internals very easily now as that would make the amps too exensive for the market and only the very best amps could justify it. The SM400 was regarded as THE amp along with the SM900 at the time. Eden copied it, IMO and did very well with their versions, the WT series. You can pick these 'vintage' ( pre-company buy-out ) amps up for very good money now and they will be amongst the best value around IMO. [/quote] I bet there's not much built like your SWR these days. My brother has a couple of Radiovox valve PA amps from many decades ago. The build quality is probably far superior to most high end gear of today. They're still run regularly today & never has a single issue with them.

Giving a guitarist a 4x12 is not a clever move.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1409519013' post='2540503'] Yes, that's what I don't quite follow. Shortening the life from 6 centuries to a mere 5 doesn't seem like much of an issue to me. How much 'shortening' actually takes place, does anyone know, or is this just a legend..? Are there any 'real-life' figures available..? I've never seen any, but I'm open... [/quote] It think it depends on the component & build quality of the amp. Like a well built engine will take a lot of running hard compared to your everyday engine. Ashdown Superfly is an example to start with for component failure.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1409516989' post='2540473'] No, I was in no way suggesting that a load of less than manufacturers spec is 'safe', only that, whilst remaining above minimum load, any extra heat will not, in the reasonable life of an amp, be a factor of shortening that life. Do not run any amp at less than makers spec, at the risk of releasing the 'magic smoke'..! [/quote] That's what I was referring to, running a 4 ohm amp at 2.6 ohm. I know we've debated running at max ohms to get max watts before. Good if you're using cabs that's are gonna benefit from it, not so if you're only gaining a couple of db. Extra heat will most likely shorten the life. More current going through the components speeds up the wear & tear process (just like with anything).

Get yourself to GuitarGuitar (trongate) & Kennys (Jamaica st) & try some rigs out. I found Markbass to be my ideal, but you might prefer some other.

The down side of that is you're running your amp hot, therefor shortening it's life & increasing the risk of failure mid gig.

Like Lozz says, having 2 different cabs is a bit of a mismatch. 2 good 2x10s or 2x12s would be a better option than any of the others as it gives you the height of an 8x10, but with a much better dispersion (so folk who are not stood directly in front of your rig get to hear your glorious sound too). If you need more than this, then the stadium PA should offer some monitoring.

Why not use your 5 & pop a capo on the 1st fret (or is that too folky/Kings of Leon looking)?

I enjoyed that. I had a SX1000 too.

If you can take a lone out from the LB30 that bypasses the power amp section, then you could buy any lightweight amp & put the pre section of the LB into it. Alternatively, buy any amp you like & put a valve pedal in front (such as a Sansamp or DHA VT1).

The LM2/3 will fit in the front pocket on your gig bag. I'd get to some shops & try as many as you can.

I would only say that your overdrive & compression is sorted out if you either want both at the start of the fx chain (using the fx loop) or both at the end (not using the loop).

You could go to a hardware store & get some mesh of a punk sort to the same size as the grill. Take off the grill & put the mesh on (or put the mesh in front of the grill).

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1408647172' post='2532241'] If I have a 4x10 that is perfectly square (with the port on the back) and I was able to prop it up on one corner, in a diamond shape, what happens with the dispersion? And, not taking all the mucking about into account, would it be preferable to being sat flat? [/quote] I'd like to think that the single 10 would give a better dispersion, but the 2 even further apart may play about with that theory. Besides, your amp would slide off the top, or was you planning on using it as the prop?

Having it set "right" should mean you don't know when it's on, but know when you turn it off. Ideally, you want a meter to set it up. I had a lend of the boss one & gave it back after much playing about. As for position, that's up to you. Some prefer start, some the end & some in the midst of the chain.

[quote name='gsgbass' timestamp='1408218157' post='2528206'] Markbass claims the LMll, is a LMlll head without the the top panel on it. [/quote] You mean the "Combo Head II", not the LMII? If so, then you would be correct.