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When I got mine, there was the SR-800FL. I think the only thing they do now is the 2 GWBs.

I'm pretty sure when that was first made is was advertised at $250k. That's a big depreciation!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xxh492o2aM

I stripped the poly off my 20+ year old bass (had more chips than the golden fryer) & refinished the wood in oil & wax. Looks better than ever IMO, although it wouldn't have suited me 20 years ago. I gave it about 20 coats of Danish & then a couple of coats of wax. Cleaning it is just the same as cleaning any other bass.

if you take the lid off, there's 2 jumpers. One near the back of the amp & one kind of middle right. One's for Pre/Post EQ & the other is for Parallel/Series FX loop. I'm sure they;re labelled inside.

I'll pop on & ask him later today if it's quiet & work.

Battery works, I think it might be the PSU. Cheers

There's a good point. I'll try just now. I can't find another 9v PSU.

Dare I say, he whom say's don't remove the neck, probably doesn't like Black basses & is most likely just trying to discourage you. I stripped my bass of black paint & it's loads better! Just in looks though, I don't think it actually sounds any different. Sell it to your tecky & buy a black one.

Cheers, it is one of the older Boss pedals (made in Taiwan) & has ACA on the bottom. I have been running it for a good year or more off a Godlyke Powerall on a daisychain with a cheap distortion pedal & a Moog LPF (using a polarity adaptor) & had no problems. The "Check" light doesn't come on at all. Hmm, there's a thought, power supply??? The distortion now seems rather noisy when engaged (might be me). The Moog's running fine, but apparently it'll run off almost anything as long as you have the correct polarity & give it enough amps to draw. I'm going for a test of PSUs.

Can any of you builders help? [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/156350-boss-ce-2-just-stopped-working-properly/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/156350-boss-ce-2-just-stopped-working-properly/[/url]

Hey guys, I have a Boss CE-2 (actually on loan from a friend) & it's just all of a sudden stopped working properly. I was playing about with my pedal board & the pedal wasn't even plugged in (other than 9v), I then plugged it in with no other fx & no light came on when I pressed the pedal & instead of a usual chorus, it's now sounding like a glitch chorus! I was using it about 5 mins before &was just going through my fx one by one. Anyone any ideas??? I've opened it up to see if I can see anything as I know a little on the electronics side & handy with a soldering iron, but I can't see anything wrong. I don't have a multi meter. Do any of you pedal builders have any advice or am I gonna have to take it to a pedal doctor?

That chap's on a Facebook forum I'm on called Organic Bass Wobble. So you did that without the hothand? I'm more impressed.

I might just see what el cheapo midi drum machines I can pick up for the interim. All it needs is to do is play a snare on each beat & that should sync us.

Once I can get the funds together, a MP-201 may well be right after the octaver. Still want to hear the new Markbass octaver. Phil, that is a pretty sweet sounding pedal, The hothand seems like a very clever invention.

Yeah I saw that same homemade LFO the other day when I was trying to find just a simple CV LFO.

[quote name='Davy' timestamp='1316693902' post='1381521']In an ideal world I'd have the RH450 but to be honest I'm pushing my funds to get this rig and one of the bands I'm in requires that I tune flat and I'm not sure that the built-in tuner does this. I didn't actually try the 4x10 cab but the 2x10 combo had loads of punch and the 4x10 will give me a bit more volume and spread. No 2x12 instore but I would wouldn't rule one of these out in the future, it'll depend on how I get on with the 4x10.[/quote] I'd like to try a TC head sometime, they get a good report on here (apart from the watts issue, but if it's loud enough...). A 4x10 would actually give you less spread than a 2x10 stood vertically like the TC ones are designed to. Why not go for 2 2x10s (or 2x12s)?

So that's what you look like! You might have warned us!!! Very nice playing BTW & love your bass sound. Is that your Fender/Allparts job?

If you go for 1 8Ω cab, you'll get about 2/3 of the amps power going to it. If you go for 2 8Ω cabs, you'll get 1/2 the amps power going to each. If you go for 1 4Ω cab, then you'll suck all the power out your amp & get a barely noticeable increase in volume & not be able to add another cab if you need more volume. Here's a good topic to read... [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/3730-gain-power-and-volume-a-confusing-menage-a-trois/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/3730-gain-power-and-volume-a-confusing-menage-a-trois/[/url] Alex is good at explaining this stuff.

I think it really depends on what type of music you're playing. If it's general rock/pop then you could probably gig away without any effects, but if you're playing DnB, Dubstep or Breakbeat then effects are a part of the sound. Have a listen to Pantherairsoft's band Our Helical Mind (or go listen to some Miloopa or Nerve) & tell me it's not worth putting a good bass through an effects chain. If you start with a crappy bass sound as a base then all your effects are gonna sound crappy (canny polish a jobby).

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1316798166' post='1383159'] The amp is running at lower watts at 8Ohms though (iirc im not great at this stuff). So lets say the speaker can handle whatever the TC throws. 1 x 8ohm Cab is going to half the power of the amp and project that 1 x 4ohm Cab is going to get the full power of the amp (actually apparently it has to be a 2.36ohm cab for the full power but we wont go there) Or am I just daft? [/quote] No, your not being daft. An 8 ohm cab will take about 2/3 of the power from the amp, but the amount of watts being fed to a cab does not equate to how loud the cab will go. A 4 ohm cab wont be twice as loud as an 8 ohm cab, more likely to be about a tenth.

Here's the situation: I have a Bass Murf & my guitarist has just bought an Adrenalinn (MKI). Is there a cheap simple MIDI to CV clock available or even a simple build for one that any of you know about? I've been searching the web but not having much luck finding what I'm after Other option that I've just this minute thought of would be a cheap drum machine & send the Midi clock to the Adrenalinn & have a hot click (like the snare) do a simple 4/4 pattern. I can see a Midi Murf on the horizon!

True, but the speaker is gonna do the same thing with that power & turn it into sound regardless of how much it gets .