xgsjx

Find out what drivers are used in the cab (it might be written on the back of them) & then check the web for the specs. Then look fir similar spec'd drivers.

Find out what drivers are used in the cab (it might be written on the back of them) & then check the web for the specs. Then look fir similar spec'd drivers.

If I had the pennies, I'd have either of them.

Mine has the Omni-Adjust bridge, I believe they later replaced it with one called the Accu-cast. [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/xgsjx/5864441787/"][/url] Not sure how it compares with the SR5xx bridges that appear to be having issues.

[quote name='4 Strings' post='1279269' date='Jun 23 2011, 12:30 AM']Your car interior is full of electronics far more complex and sensitive than a a bass cab, and materials more delicate than paper cones (it even includes paper cones in the car speakers). None of them suffer from being part of a car. Unless your car leaks onto your cabinet or you leave the windows open there's no difference to it being anywhere else. [b]A shed would be different.[/b][/quote] Why would he want to stick a shed in his car?

You could always ask the drummer to leave the floor tom & take a minimalistic kit if the stage is too small, or maybe even get him one of these... Actually, I'd love to have a drummer/percussionist with one!

[url="http://www.ibanez.com/BassGuitars/SeriesIntro-SR_Intro"]Here's the current SR Soundgears.[/url]

I've got a SR-1000 that I bought new just over 20 years ago & has been my main bass for just about everything. The necks on the SoundGear basses are very slim & have very good access right upto the 24th fret. I've never had that issue with the grub screws that Paul mentions, so it might just be on ones from that era or just the 6 stringers (maybe even restricted to 506s). The old Ibbys had IBZ C2 pickups, which was made by EMG for Ibanez. The higher end SR basses also have pretty good electronics & I've found the "Power Curve" system can give you a huge range of tones. The newer ones have Bartolini pickups. I originally bought the bass to play rock & metal (& it did the job just nicely), now I use it in an acoustic folk/country/jazz band & planning on using it for some DnB/Dubstep. It did start life as a metallic black instrument & just recently turned it into an ash finish (Yes, I stripped the paint off it!). I would like it as a 5 or 6 stringer, but the neck's too narrow to fit another in there. Anything else you need to know?

You know what you want?

[quote name='citymariner' post='1278919' date='Jun 22 2011, 07:24 PM']Haha, your process of deduction is ace! We are loud! I'll try it out. [attachment=83282:rig.jpg] Saves on the back from lifting the head on top of both cabs...[/quote] I was 1/2 expecting to see a Little Giant wedged between those cabs.

If you're looking for a smaller board, why not rack your moogers & get a multi bypass pedal made that only takes up the space of one slightly largish pedal? If you don't turn the moogs off, then you wouldn't even need that! I know it's still another box, but might make an easier load.

Try it. Post your findings here.

Does anybody think that red "Musicmaster" looks nice? To me, the horns look ridiculously small & the headstock looks almost as big as the body. Just IMO.

Could always get a 5,6 or 7 string bass if you need the higher notes but don't want 24 frets. I want one of [url="http://www.ritter-instruments.com/item_info.php?i=129"]these[/url] or [url="http://www.ritter-instruments.com/item_info.php?i=363"]these![/url] That way I needent worry about running out of frets.

Having drivers on the [s]vertical [/s] horizontal plane narrows the dispersement (soundwaves bumping into each other). Edited because I don't know my up from across. No wonder I'm crap at crosswords!

I prefer 24 frets. A couple of my acoustic band's songs require me to play a melody up the dusty end a lot & actually use that G (could do with the A too). I've tried playing them an octave down & they just don't sit.

I'd spend a week or two in that shop just trying all those lovely pedals. The OTO Machines Biscuit looks very interesting.

I've just found out that [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=138141&st=0"]this topic [/url] explains what the band was doing. The relevant info is from post 9 onwards. Thanks to ras52 for pointing this out.

If the cab is kept out of direct sunlight & there's no condensation in your car, then there shouldn't be any issue. There's rarely any issues with car audio subs & amps in the boot. The only concern I would have is if someone stole the car, would the cab be covered?

I do feel for the band & the bassist for having such a bad gig, but the reasons in the statement do sound like a lame excuse. I'm not saying they are, but they don't tie in with that video at all). Maybe the statement was in relation to another gig that went wrong?

You'd think as a "PRO" bassist she'd be able to tune by ear or have a tuner in front of her if she can't! I agree with Nigel that there should have been someone there with a tuned bass to hand her (it's a Festival they're playing at, not a pub!).

I knew middle eastern music used 1/4 tones (thanks to a Yamaha thing that I think replaced the DX7 & I can't remember the name of it, that brought this to my attention) & it's also used in Greek music. I thought the reason behind this was one of 2 things: 1, they had poor intonation on the fretless instruments & 2, didn't tune up properly on the fretted (& non stringed instruments that had 1/4 tones was made by a crap luthier)

They are a bit pricey & I'm sure there's cheaper alternatives. How about the feet that they use on kick drum stabilisers? They're similar & much cheaper.

How about something like this? [url="http://www.fotosense.co.uk/gitzo-g1220-130b3-all-terrain-foot-60mm-set-of-3.html"]Linky[/url] You'd need to fit 3 nuts for them to screw into along the edge of your board (1 each end & one 1/2 way along would be the preferred option). There's other things on that website that will do the same job such as [url="http://www.fotosense.co.uk/gitzo-gs5030vsf-photo-video-double-use-spike-rubber-feet-set-of-3.html"]these.[/url] Might be a easier option as you would just need to drill 3 holes, pop a bolt through with a nut & a couple of washers & enough bolt past the nut to screw these on to. But there'd be a bit of bolt sticking out to catch onto things