xgsjx

[quote name='4 Strings' post='1279269' date='Jun 23 2011, 12:30 AM']Your car interior is full of electronics far more complex and sensitive than a a bass cab, and materials more delicate than paper cones (it even includes paper cones in the car speakers). None of them suffer from being part of a car. Unless your car leaks onto your cabinet or you leave the windows open there's no difference to it being anywhere else. [b]A shed would be different.[/b][/quote] Why would he want to stick a shed in his car?

You could always ask the drummer to leave the floor tom & take a minimalistic kit if the stage is too small, or maybe even get him one of these... Actually, I'd love to have a drummer/percussionist with one!

[url="http://www.ibanez.com/BassGuitars/SeriesIntro-SR_Intro"]Here's the current SR Soundgears.[/url]

I've got a SR-1000 that I bought new just over 20 years ago & has been my main bass for just about everything. The necks on the SoundGear basses are very slim & have very good access right upto the 24th fret. I've never had that issue with the grub screws that Paul mentions, so it might just be on ones from that era or just the 6 stringers (maybe even restricted to 506s). The old Ibbys had IBZ C2 pickups, which was made by EMG for Ibanez. The higher end SR basses also have pretty good electronics & I've found the "Power Curve" system can give you a huge range of tones. The newer ones have Bartolini pickups. I originally bought the bass to play rock & metal (& it did the job just nicely), now I use it in an acoustic folk/country/jazz band & planning on using it for some DnB/Dubstep. It did start life as a metallic black instrument & just recently turned it into an ash finish (Yes, I stripped the paint off it!). I would like it as a 5 or 6 stringer, but the neck's too narrow to fit another in there. Anything else you need to know?

You know what you want?

[quote name='citymariner' post='1278919' date='Jun 22 2011, 07:24 PM']Haha, your process of deduction is ace! We are loud! I'll try it out. [attachment=83282:rig.jpg] Saves on the back from lifting the head on top of both cabs...[/quote] I was 1/2 expecting to see a Little Giant wedged between those cabs.

If you're looking for a smaller board, why not rack your moogers & get a multi bypass pedal made that only takes up the space of one slightly largish pedal? If you don't turn the moogs off, then you wouldn't even need that! I know it's still another box, but might make an easier load.

Try it. Post your findings here.

Does anybody think that red "Musicmaster" looks nice? To me, the horns look ridiculously small & the headstock looks almost as big as the body. Just IMO.

Could always get a 5,6 or 7 string bass if you need the higher notes but don't want 24 frets. I want one of [url="http://www.ritter-instruments.com/item_info.php?i=129"]these[/url] or [url="http://www.ritter-instruments.com/item_info.php?i=363"]these![/url] That way I needent worry about running out of frets.

Having drivers on the [s]vertical [/s] horizontal plane narrows the dispersement (soundwaves bumping into each other). Edited because I don't know my up from across. No wonder I'm crap at crosswords!

I prefer 24 frets. A couple of my acoustic band's songs require me to play a melody up the dusty end a lot & actually use that G (could do with the A too). I've tried playing them an octave down & they just don't sit.

I'd spend a week or two in that shop just trying all those lovely pedals. The OTO Machines Biscuit looks very interesting.

I've just found out that [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=138141&st=0"]this topic [/url] explains what the band was doing. The relevant info is from post 9 onwards. Thanks to ras52 for pointing this out.

If the cab is kept out of direct sunlight & there's no condensation in your car, then there shouldn't be any issue. There's rarely any issues with car audio subs & amps in the boot. The only concern I would have is if someone stole the car, would the cab be covered?

I do feel for the band & the bassist for having such a bad gig, but the reasons in the statement do sound like a lame excuse. I'm not saying they are, but they don't tie in with that video at all). Maybe the statement was in relation to another gig that went wrong?

You'd think as a "PRO" bassist she'd be able to tune by ear or have a tuner in front of her if she can't! I agree with Nigel that there should have been someone there with a tuned bass to hand her (it's a Festival they're playing at, not a pub!).

I knew middle eastern music used 1/4 tones (thanks to a Yamaha thing that I think replaced the DX7 & I can't remember the name of it, that brought this to my attention) & it's also used in Greek music. I thought the reason behind this was one of 2 things: 1, they had poor intonation on the fretless instruments & 2, didn't tune up properly on the fretted (& non stringed instruments that had 1/4 tones was made by a crap luthier)

They are a bit pricey & I'm sure there's cheaper alternatives. How about the feet that they use on kick drum stabilisers? They're similar & much cheaper.

How about something like this? [url="http://www.fotosense.co.uk/gitzo-g1220-130b3-all-terrain-foot-60mm-set-of-3.html"]Linky[/url] You'd need to fit 3 nuts for them to screw into along the edge of your board (1 each end & one 1/2 way along would be the preferred option). There's other things on that website that will do the same job such as [url="http://www.fotosense.co.uk/gitzo-gs5030vsf-photo-video-double-use-spike-rubber-feet-set-of-3.html"]these.[/url] Might be a easier option as you would just need to drill 3 holes, pop a bolt through with a nut & a couple of washers & enough bolt past the nut to screw these on to. But there'd be a bit of bolt sticking out to catch onto things

[quote name='Roland Rock' post='1276468' date='Jun 20 2011, 10:22 PM']Just a bit of advice re danish oil. Its purpose is to be absorbed into the surface of the wood, then to cure/harden so that it makes that (extremely thin) surface hard and slightly water resistant. Unless you have a very thirstry wood, anything more than three or four applications will result in the oil no longer being absorbed into the wood, but sitting on top instead like a laquer. This may look nice and shiny, but won't last. Also, sanding to too fine a grit (say, over 1200) will make it harder for the wood to absorb the oil.[/quote] Good pointers. I should mention that I started with 40 grit (no oil), then 70, 110, 180 & then finished with 240 & sanded in the oil with 240 (it was a smooth enough finish for my liking). After each coating I left it for @5-10 mins & then wiped off the excess with a clean cloth & left it to dry for about 4+ hours. I repeated this several times & then left it untouched for just over a week until it didn't smell & let the oil absorb. I then waxed it, left that to dry over night & the following day I gave it another waxing. I did a lot of googling & read a load of furniture restoration things as well as instrument things. My bass isn't shiny, but more of a satin finish with a dull sheen (almost like a rather dull shellac). If I want it shiny then I'll French polish it. I had toyed with the idea of doing a ceruse finish, but decided not to bother. Another note, I don't think you can lacquer or paint on oil unless you're using a linseed oil lacquer/paint product. Have fun with it & rememember, Google is your friend here (& I'm sure many of the BC house luthiers will offer tips if asked)!

[quote name='Big_Stu' post='1276235' date='Jun 20 2011, 07:30 PM']Fabulous, I did the same with a beech counter top I made for the kitchen. Looks great but not a good move to have the kettle on it, hot water splashes lift it off again no problem.[/quote] Note to self: Don't put hot kettle on bass.

I sanded in about a dozen coats of Danish oil & then a couple of coats of wax on my ash ibby. [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/xgsjx/5840432981/"][/url] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=134250"]Link to the process.[/url]

I prefer to use my rig. That way I know roughly what it's gonna sound like prior to the gig & if they want it thru the PA, they can either mic or DI from me. Other problem I have is a lot of venues either have a PA that won't cope with everything going thru or we have to use our own (which after the drummer is in there, I find there's not enough headroom). So if you want to use your Bassman, ask the soundy to mic you up (get your own mic, stand & cable to avoid excuses).