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I think I know what your problem is, your psu. Since getting my Godlyke PSU the MF101 does have a high pitched whine which is there whether the bypass is in or out (not true bypass). This is only occurring in certain parts of my house & if I get it I turn the VLE on my amp up until it is almost gone (on non MB amps turning the treble down without it taking too much top off is similar). So far at rehearsals for both bands (different places) the whine has never occurred & it is due to the fact that it's a digital power supply & the MF101 is quite famous for picking up any frequencies (radio included) according to the moogerfooger forum. I'm thinking of giving the 101 it's own psu but as I only use 2 pedals just now it's not gonna make any odds to me. The MF105B is fine tho. No noise, no buzz, just lovely sounds & just sussed that it can make some nice chorus effects too! Other thing I found out about the MF101 is that it can buzz like a bitch being slapped from behind. Solution to this is copper/brass shielding. It's my next project & I'm getting some thin brass @A4 size to cut & put inside the wood panels & shall get some copper tape to conduct between the case. Some folk don't have the buzz problem, mine's isn't loud but if I can get rid of it, I shall. I'm gonna try picking up a + tip psu with a high enough output (ma) & try putting the daisychain onto it without using the +- adaptors, see if it sorts that side & I'll let you know what it does.

He does say "feel free to ask any questions!", so I'm tempted to ask what "Im am parting out a 1973 / 1974 jazz bass" means & if the screw says "Fender" on it

The Godlyke comes with two reverse polarity adaptors & both my moogers are + tip and my zoom 708 is - tip, it powers them all fine. I read something similar about not being able to do it but one of the psu manufacturers sites I was on showed a set up powering several different pedals using different adaptors. I'd like to say yes it will be ok, but I'd double check either with someone using a similar muff or give a manufacturer a call (I phoned effectpowersupplies as I was gonna get one from there but ended up at DV247 to get a few things). G

It does look & sound like a good idea. The idea for the grill is a good one but you may want to look at a different material that wont affect the sound (reminds me of a new version of the early 20th century speaker designs where they done this with wood). Good luck with it, I'm sure you'll get lots of (mainly good) advice on here.

So for amps that usually get turned up about as far as 1/3 - 1/2 way at most for small - medium gigs, there would be no advantage in a 4 ohm cab over an 8 ohm? If I wanted extra depth (more volume at lower hz), would adding a 15" 8 ohm cab be the best route?

Cheers, I decided to go with a Spider case & a Godlyke Powerall. After careful thinking I had thought that the Gator would give no protection in the back of a van & the Warwick looks like it's made of plastic & can see that lasting about as long as an icecube in a hot toddy. The spider comes with a board, but when I say board, I mean a piece of ply painted black & two strips of cheapo velcro that doesn't stick. Easy fix, buy some heavy duty velcro from craft shop & screw a couple of feet onto the board & it does the job perfectly. A bit of a heavy case but it's well made & solid. There's enough room for my pedals & if i need a power block there's room for that too. Happy days.

After reading a post by ashevans09 with a similar title but for valve amps, I thought I'd ask this Question. Here's the imaginary set up (some may have it): Amp is a MB LMII there is two EBS 2x10 cabs, one is 500 watt & 4 ohm, the other is 500 watt & 8 ohm. I know the 4 ohm is going to pull the full load from the LMII & the 8 ohm is going to take 350 watts max, but this is my question... Why choose the 4 over the 8? is there a big difference in how much volume the 4 ohm cab is going to produce or does it give a clearer sound?

So if I'm looking to get more depth to my sound (more below the 80hz region) I would be better with a larger diameter cone than 10" to produce these clearer & to shake some serious low end? Something like 15", or is a 4x10 going to have better results?

I usually dedicate at least one hour a day to practice, but like most of you, it starts off noodling. We have 2 hours band practice on Monday for one band & 2 hours on Thurs for the other, but I tend to practice the songs or techniques in my own time. Guitarist on the other hand, I think the only time he practices the songs is at band practice as he plays something different every bloody time! Just started decorating the house at the weekend there so practice might suffer.

Another contender is the Godlyke Powerall.

First GAS was a Spider pedalboard, a Moog expression pedal & foot switch and a Godlyke powerall. This was for the very last gas of 2008 being a Moogerfooger LPF I got on New Years Eve.

Never seen that for a bit ^_^ Brilliant stuff. In reply to the OP, I don't really have something particular that I play. Usually a couple of my own basslines to see how it sounds.

To be honest Alex, if you never intend on doing covers like they was originally played (as opposed to your own interpretation, which is how it should be IMOH) then theory is all you may ever need, unless you want to write your stuff for others to play. I hardly use the ability to read & tab's a bit to blame for this too!

+1 on the bass check rather than playing. I check the hardware, build quality, straightness and just hold the bass in few different positions before playing a single note. Then i check the tuning & make sure all frets play in tune & for any buzz as well as get a feel for the bass followed by seeing how long a note will sustain for. Then I plug it in to see how it sounds & repeat the above. Do a bit of string bending & a couple of index pops & check to see if the strings are still in tune. Then I try a couple of scales to see if it's going to suit me, and then I play NV43345 (only kidding)

Although none are essential if you play in a covers band doing the same stuff over & over, I think both are in their own merits. If you play covers & want to learn more complex songs & not so good at learning by ear then the ability to read is valuable. If you play original material then theory shall be your best friend. It is the understanding of what goes on, how chords & scales work, dynamics etc. It helps to pull entire basslines from whatever chord the guitarist is playing. My sight reading is now rubbish as I never used it past the age of @ 18 as I don't enjoy doing like for like covers but still read music from books & mags for my own pleasure such as training ideas.

The rehearsal room we use used to have a bass bomber. I wouldn't say it was shi7e but I wouldn't say it was good either. It did get broken tho. I use a Markbass cmd102p for everything. Gigs, rehearsals, at home, it has a good volume control on it so I can adjust the level of sound to suit. Been thinking of adding another cab but so far I've never needed any extra volume. Often I don't bother going thru the PA so I have more headroom & control :brow:

Live situations I usually get to the left of the drummer, but not always, one gig we did I was in front of the drummer & I don't even sing! In rehearsals I usually end up to the right of the drummer (due to bleedin' guitarist) next to the ride cymbal, which he always plays & gives my hearing another downgrading!

Craft shop such as Hobbycraft sells stick on letters of all varieties (adhesive back, rub on, etc) or you could get either rubber alphabet stamps and an ink pad or a vellum pen, embossing powder & a heat gun (or hot hairdryer), that way you can put what you want with embossed letters.

Got my pedal board now. The last bits arrived today so here's a pic..... [attachment=18948:SNC16478.JPG] Got to work out what I need next. Maybe an octaver & a compressor.

I have the 2x10 combo & can't find anything to complain about. I use 2 moogerfoogers & I am still amazed at how much low end this puts out when I go for a sub type sound using the MF-101 & then if I want clarity for tapping or anything else up the fretboard, it's there. If you have a good sound from your current cabs then I would probably just get a head. Other option is to get the combo & add your 15"er if you want to get the full 500w from it. I haven't managed to get my volume up as far as 1/2 way yet. Rehearsals last night I had the input gain at @ 10 o'clock & the output at @ 9 o'clock & I was the loudest one there out of me, 2 guitars & drums. Only negative thing I can say so far is that I hardly touch the VLE & VPF controls. They stay pretty much at one position, but I suppose everyone has a different setting for these to get "their" sound.

Put a metronome on & listen to it for a while. Once you get the rhythm in your head pick up your bass & hold a fret (any note you like) & play 1/4 notes until it sits the same as the metronome. Then do 1/8 notes until it sits & you get your timing. Then do some small patterns, simple stuff like "the chain" or "another one bites the dust" or anything you like that has a simple pattern. Now play just the pattern without moving your fret hand. Once you get the timing move onto something a bit more complex, but remember, ALWAYS LISTEN TO THE METRONOME. This simple theory may take weeks/months to get right but it works. I play with a varispeed drummer, as most do & I always listen to him as much (if not more) as myself. Hope this helps. G

there's a s/h SWR LA10 in the for sale bit, might be worth a look & if near you then try it out.

I wouldn't get any of them. Have a look at the small Ashdown & SWR combos for about the same money. Second hand classifieds on here have lots of good stuff too. G

The last gig I did with my acoustic band I put the 102 on it's side & it sounded really good (my reason for putting it on it's side was to use as a table for a penny whistle to sit on for my mandolinist as we did the gig sitting on bar stools). None of the audience really noticed that it was sideways but I did have a few compliments on how it sounded by other musicians.

I'm Considering getting a Gator Pedal Tote Pro with GBus8, thing is the power is - tip & my pedals are + tip. I know there is these [url="http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/21mm-reverse-polarity-adaptor-13-p.asp"]http://www.effectpowersupplies.com/21mm-re...daptor-13-p.asp[/url] Does anybody know if there is cables that go from mini jack to 2.1mm that swap polarity? I could make them but it might cause hum. Other option is the Warwick RB23100, any thoughts? It needs to be big enough to hold 2 moogers, a footswitch, an expression pedal & another pedal or two at a later date. Should I get a powered board or just use the 2 PSUs for the 2 pedals just now & get a board then get a brick later. £100 is my top limit, preferably less. Cheers, G