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I get you. I was a Christian for a long time. When I played in worship bands, there were some good sessions. Unfortunately though, there were more haphazard, disorganised times than there were good times. In spite of this, I always remained a caring, professional musician & played to the best of my ability (which to me, means keeping in time & not messing things up). Now I’m an exvangelical/deconstructionist & see the bible very differently. However, I’m not going to say that you should too. It’s your life & I think as long as you’re not hurting anyone, etc, then a person should be who they want to.

I enjoy coming back & reading this thread from time to time. So many folk seem to have the same issues as the churches that I’ve been part of (or even tried being part of, but was just used for my skills & nothing else). It’s a shame there’s so much hassle with playing in a worship team, but at the same time, it makes me glad that I’m no longer part of a church or any religious organisation.

Just the same as DIing straight from your preamp (or back of your bass amp head) to the FOH, except you get to hear it like the audience does.

Where ever it sounds best in relation to your other pedals & your preference is the best place for it.

Sorry, I’m missing another month. ☹️

The advantage for me is aurally rather than physically. I play synth as well as bass. Most often it’s synth bass, but for a few songs, I split the keyboard & have the right hand playing something like synth pads, keys or a brass sound. So the bass goes through my board with a preamp on it & then to a small mixer & the synth goes straight to the mixer. Then they both go to the PA cab. Di can come from the mixer, but can also be taken from the preamp for bass only.

Yes, that’s what I meant by TCE, I remember their “but it’s a loud 236 watts”. 🤣 But only a couple of makers do that in the bass rig world. They do this in the budget sound system market, but even better. E.g. a 2:1 system could be advertised as having 3600 watts & breaks it down as 30w+30w satellites x 60w sub. 😂

Haha, that’s a very good point. But then, wouldn’t a sound engineer want to go with a company that shows more realistic numbers?

The thing is though, when the product is already really good, sounds great & is loud enough, why? I can understand the cheap crappers such as KAM, QTX, etc doing it, as they need to have something that looks good, but QSC & RCF? Other than TCE, bass rig manufacturers don’t use “peak”. Are soundies less technically inquisitive than bassists?

When discussing PA a few months back with a chap I know who’s a computing science professor, I asked the same question (but more of a statement) “Why just give peak” & his response was along the lines of “it’s relevant to any spikes in volume”. I suppose “if” the manufacturer measured peak using voltage swing, then it would be relevant?

Thanks guys. RCF do at least put the SPL for their cabs, but you have to go to the back of the user manual to find out that “2100 watts” is a bi amp with 350 watts for anything above 1.8 kHz & 700 for anything below. I would have thought that the non budget PA cabs would have come with some decent specs & would have thought that it would have been demanded by sound engineers, but obvs I was wrong. 😂

It might seem like a silly question… Why do PA manufacturers advertise the cabs peak power & not RMS? Is it just marketing, or is there a good reason behind it?

If you want a freebie that’ll do what you want, then Cakewalk is a great DAW that comes bundled with some extra instruments & fx.

Cheers. I’ll get a decent lekky soldering iron, check the pot values & order 2 replacement volume pots & try that. The other 2 smaller pots are for treble & bass. Those 2 work perfectly. One thing that I was really unsure of, is the grey wire coming from the J pickup. the P has a black & a white wire, but the J has a black, a white & a grey. I asked Aguilar about the grey wire & they was as helpful as going to the chippy & asking. But from what info I could find, it seems to be another earth, which seems a little odd.

Yes, I usually do some scores with a Stanley like a # or rub it with a little sandpaper.

Ahhh, I never thought about that! My soldering iron is a Blue Point gas iron that I got back at the turn of the century when I was installing car security & multimedia. It’s a decent iron for a gas iron, but it did take a bit of time to heat the pots enough to put the earths on. I’ll try a new iron & get 2 new pots (I can pop em out to see the values). It’ll probably be next month, but I’ll report back once done. Thanks all. Really appreciated.

If you don’t have any issues, could you take a pic of your pots?

The pots came with it as a bundle.

Would someone be able to help me see where I’ve gone wrong with my wiring. the pickups are Aguilar AG4 P & J HC & the preamp is an OBP-2. I installed them a few months back & it sounds great. However, I’ve just discovered that the volumes are doing funny things. You can roll either pick-up on or off, but if you roll one right back, then the other, it doesn’t fade down like expected & the sound cuts off a good bit before it’s turned fully down. I’m stumped as to where I’ve went wrong. I’ve tried to follow this diagram, but I’m at a loss. Here’s some pics of my mess in the cavity. I can get more pics if needed. Any help would be massively appreciated.

I was there too! Still got some pics from it too.

A couple of nights ago, I just sat & messed around with creating the biggest bass sound I could. Started with a Jupiter 8 & created a good synth bass, then I opened anuther Jupiter 8 for another bass sound, then added a JX8P for a more bell like overtone & then an SH-101 for pure sub below it all. Did it all with no menu diving at all & was a great way to spend 2 hours (that includes playing about with said patch after creation). 😎

It might be portamento time? That’s not on the front panel of the Jupiter X. You have to go into a menu to set the speed, but there’s a big portamento button on the panel.

I was going to get the Juno X, but the Jupiter X comes with a Juno 106 as well as a Jupiter 8, a JX8P, an SH-101, an XV5080, the RD piano, a vocoder, zencore & the Jupiter X synth engine, so to me was a better deal even at £2300 new. I’ve had mine for 3 months & hardly touched the surface of what it can do. last night I spent a few hours just creating a synth bass sound that used 2 Jupiter 8s, a JX8P & an SH-101 all layered to make one big killer bass sound. £1450 is a bit of a bargain!

That’s sad to hear. I know that in 2021 they filed for bankruptcy, but I thought they’d gotten sorted out as they then released Lumi & more recently the Rise2.

For musical instruments, Roli gave me outstanding customer service. About 5 years ago, my Rise, which was out of warranty, developed a fault. I contacted Roli to ask if I was able to fix the issue, they sent me a returns label which covered postage & 3 days after sending it, I had it back fully working & not costing me a penny. Cambridge Audio have also been superb with a similar sort of response to an issue.