ossyrocks

Ok, we're cooking on gas again, or should that be induction these days? Thanks @Hellzero for the diagrams. Mine didn't resemble either layout exactly. My tone cap was only on one pot, like the later layout, but I didn't have a dedication ground across the back of both pots. I've rewired as per the 73-95 layout and added a ground between the pots. I also sucked all the old solder off and redid all the connections, trimming leads where required. Whilst this bass has been worked on over the years, the pots, cap and jack socket are the originals ones from '73. I do suspect the issue I was having with it was related to grounding, as it sounded like that, and one pot was every so slightly loose (now tightened). All working well now, and quietly, and the tone isn't any different than it was before, which I'm very glad about, because this bass sounds really good. Cheers, Rob

Thanks for those, I'll check it out today and report back. Rob

Ok, my 73 P Bass started playing up tonight. It’s been ridden hard and put away wet for over 50 years, it’s far from pristine, and the electrics have been worked on too over the years. When I got it, the tone pot didn’t work at all, but that was just a contact problem. I’ve got the guard off and I can’t find a single diagram that matches how this is wired! Can anyone point me to a definitive wiring diagram for a 73 P bass? If I look online, I see so many variations! Cheers, Rob

Congratulations. That neck profile is where it's at for me too. Lovely looking bass. Rob

To me, the colour is wrong. I have a cheap tort guard here that I had on a MIJ P bass, and I think it looks better. I'll post a pic of it against my '73. Rob

I have a selection of micromesh pads, bought cheap off amazon. one of the very fine ones could nicely dull down a shiny scratchplate without causing visible scratches I think. Rob

I do know a guitarist who can rot a set of strings in an hour. He has custom made titanium saddles in his Les Paul because his corrosive sweat destroys the regular ones. Some people are just like that.

https://titebond.co.uk/products/titebond-original-wood-glue?variant=29688250335331 https://virtuosopolish.com/shop/ I did buy my cleaner in the UK I think, but it was over 10 years ago, and I still have it. There's nothing like it, really worth the money. If you can't find any in the UK, I will send you what I've got left. Rob

I'm sure there would be something you can soak it in the revive it.

Just a suggestion, whilst you have it in bits, get some Virtuoso Guitar Cleaner and really go to town on the body and neck. That stuff is amazing and might really bring out the best in the worn finish. I've revived even the dullest opaque looking finishes with it in the past.

Hurrah! What glue will you use? I have used Titebond for this kind of job in the past and it's been very good.

At the end of the day, no one is going to criticise you for getting these out using whatever method you eventually use. If you end up having to fill the existing holes before refitting the replacement bridge, then hey ho I say. It's all stuff I would do to get it right too. All of this will be hidden under the replacement bridge, so it's not going to be seen. Crack on my son. Rob,

Heads up: 800RB Rack Ears on ebay! Cheap too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276900741681 You're welcome. Rob

Ahh yes, that's my cab. I have gigged this, quite a bit, and it's been superb. Mainly for an improv fusion thing in a pub in Lancaster, with full kit (and not a shy drummer), electric guitar, acoustic guitar and sax. It was ample. The real test came at Lancaster Funk Club when I stood in as house bass player, up against a right noisy bunch, kit, Hammond & Leslie, guitars, horns, and a harmonica player through a cranked 4x10 Fender Bassman. Again, it held its own and I would not hesitate to use it again in similar circumstances. All the above with an Elf head too, so running at 130w into 8 ohms. Admittedly the Elf Master Vol was on max, and I controlled the overall volume with the gain control. But I have found that's the best way to use the Elf in any circumstances to be fair. Rob

@ikay is the man to talk to about the bridge position. Personally, I wouldn't move it. There's probably not enough wriggle room to move the bridge forward without plugging the original holes, as the new holes would have to be so close. It would also leave tell tale marks in the finish on the top when the bridge moves forward maybe 5mm. What I would consider however, is having the bridge removed by a luthier, and if any screws shear off, having them drilled out and the holes properly plugged to take the new screws. To me, this is just maintenance, it's not modification, and all would be concealed under the bridge. Whereabouts are you? I'm interested to know who is going to refret it, as I have a '73 Jazz in need of a refret. Rob Edit: Looking again at your bridge position, it's not bad at all. I have two Jazz basses where the saddles are right at the very front of the baseplate.

Great thread @andytoad Re the saddles, I spotted the grubscrews too, but the saddles might be original. My '73 P had seized and rusted grubscrews which I had to replace too. I just happened to buy correct slotted head ones rather than allen key ones. You also appear to have two longer intonation screws rather than the factory supplied one screw on the G string. There are a few early 70's basses with the bridge a bit further back than it should be, hence needing the longer screws. I have a stash of 1 3/4" ones for exactly this purpose if you need any. Tell us more about the pickguard and why you want to replace it, is it definitely not original? Rob

Isaac bought a pickup from me this week. No hassle, no haggle, all good. Thanks, Rob

I'm glad you bought it, it has prevented me buying it! I think this one deserves its own thread to follow progress. I'd be keen to see more of this one and its journey back to life. Rob

I'm glad you bought it, it has prevented me buying it! I think this one deserves its own thread to follow progress. I'd be keen to see more of this one and its journey back to life. Rob

That's a cool bass, and I don't think it would take much TLC to make it playable. I'm going to say '73 though. Rob