Corvine

Thank, I got one it the end, with a BEF pro. Really impressed, haven't had this much fun in ages!

Don't think I'm as dexterous with my feet as I am with my hands, like the idea of controlling it with my hand to get rapid or subtle movements. Just want to know how well they work!

What are people's opinions/experiences with the souce audio hot hand? I've read a few mixed things about them. Some people say it's not a very reliable piece of kit. I can't work out if it's as good as it sounds in some of the demos or just a gimmick. Thoughts?

[quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1378385759' post='2199476'] are you in Kent? I know of a very good amp tech in maidstone [/quote] I'm in Gloucestershire. when I spoke to Hartke they said that as the amp is still in production they wont release the scematics for it, so I guess that might make it difficult for someone else to work on.

[quote name='dmccombe7' timestamp='1378383368' post='2199420'] I've just bought a new one from Thomann and its knackered too so this doesn't hold out to well for me asking for a replacement rather than a refund. I've actually contacted Larry Hartke himself but still waiting on some kind of response. Not sure the time diff over there either and obviously he may well be too busy. Who knows ? Not a good sign tho. [/quote] Seems to be a problem with them then, shame as it's an amazing sounding amp! http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/hartke-kilo-bridged-mono-issue-907872/ Look at this thread here, this bloke's amp (in the US) eventually got replaced with one that worked fine and didn't get as hot. Maybe a later batch that had the problem fixed. Possibly the ones on sale in the UK are still from an older batch? At least as you bough yours new the warranty will cover it getting replaired/replaced. But it's a professional piece of equipment and should do what it is designed to do. I know I bought mine second hand but it is less than a year old and it has obviously been very well looked after by the previous owner. If it's a design flaw then Hartke should recall the faulty products and put the situation right, or they'll end up making a bad name for themselves. How did you get in touch with Larry? I PMed him on TB a few days ago but have not heard back. Do you have an email address to get hold of him on?

Yep, I have, but as I didn't own the amp from new it may end up costing me an arm and a leg to get the problem sorted.

I've recently bought a Hartke Kilo, second hand, but the amp is less than a year old and had been kept in a rack case and not used that much. However it seems to have a problem with getting hot and cutting out. It first did it in mono bridge mode, playing loud through a 4ohm cab it cut out after a couple of minutes. I have tried taking it out of the flight case to allow more air to circulate around it but it doesn't make a difference. It gets very hot underneath at the back. It has worked fine in stereo mode with 8ohms on each channel, but with 4ohms on each (it should be able to handle 2ohms per channel) the left channel cut out after a few minutes. Someone in the US on talkbass had the same problem and eventually Hartke replaced the amp (after servicing/replacing transistors which didn't fix the problem) but as I have not owned the amp from new and the waranty is non-transferable then this is not an option for me. Hartke charge £60 per hour for servicing it, so it'll be around £90 straight off the bat just to look at it, that's before parts, not to mention the cost of getting it to them (milton keynes). I don't mind paying to get it fixed if it gets sorted and that's that, but my worry is that they'll service it, say it's sorted and the problem will still occur. Or that they'll say they can't find a fault with it, as they wont push it hard enough to make it cut out. Anyone had any similar experience with this amp? Any ideas or advice on the best way to deal with it?

What are the implications of that? Will I get more volume from one cab than another? Can this harm the amp/cabs, or just that it might not sound so good?

And following on from that, again just double checking that I've worked it out right before doing something dumb... On an amp that goes to a minimum of 2 ohms, and has 2 speaker out-puts, it's ok to have a 4 ohm cab on one out-put and two 8 ohm cabs (in parallel) on the other out-put. My reasoning is the two 8s equal 4, and with the other 4 that makes 2 ohms overall. Is that correct working out, or does the differing impedance of the cabs add up in a strange and illogical way? I think things add up differently in series, but should be nice and straight forward in parallel, y/n?

OC-2 made in taiwan JP 07570

Thanks. Yep, I'm within my safe ohmage, two eights in parallel is four, right?

When connecting Hartke Hydrive cabs in parallel, does it matter which of the connections I use as input and output? They are both marked as input, and although the manual refers to them as 'Input' and 'Extension Output', the corresponding diagram seems to imply that it doesn't matter which is used for what. Common sense and my guesswork would both suggest that because it's in parallel it doesn't matter which is in and out. But I know very little about wiring, so though it best to ask some advice before I do something stupid! Thanks

Cool, thanks for the info guys. I'm looking at an LMB-3 on ebay for about 35 quid. From what I can tell the Behringer is a clone, but guess the Boss will last longer. Also some reviews said that the Behringer has a bit of a hiss to it when not in use. ovnilab looks like it can tell me everything else I need to know. Cheers

In practical terms, what is the difference between a limiter and a compressor? Also, Berhinger do a cheap limiter/enhance, is it worth trying, or is it as cheap and nasty as the price suggests?!

I recently tried putting my Markbass Compressore pedal in front of my POG2 and it seemed to help the sound a lot more than having it afterwards, got rid of some crackles and unwanted inconsistencies.

[quote name='iiipopes' timestamp='1371736752' post='2117539'] Yes, Chromes start bright, in a "ping" sort of way. But then they quickly thud out. For longetivity, and some good growl, Fender 9050CL 45-60-80-105 have been the flats that changed me from a rounds player. [/quote] Any idea if anywhere sells these as a 5 string set (in uk)?

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1371724430' post='2117326'] From personal use, Chromes, but having watched a few flats-comparisons on youtube, agree with the Fender recommendations. In fact I thought they sounded twangier than the Chromes. [/quote] Can't seem to find the Fenders in a 5 string set.

Cool, thanks. Anyone got an idea which chromes keep their sound longest? And where's a good place to buy online? I've been looking on strings direct, but they don't seem to have all the types of strings that I hear people mention. I need 5string long scale length which makes it a little more difficult.

Hello. I was wondering, in people's experience, what are the brightest sounding flatwounds? I prefer the zing of roundwound strings, but I also like to slide about a lot, and love the feel of playing on flats. I have tried groundwound/halfwounds as a compromise, but still much prefer the smoothness of sliding about on flats. Can anyone recomend a flatwound that has a nice bright sound, preferably one that keeps it sound for the longest time? (new set of strings aint cheap!) Also someone suggested string cleaner to maintain the new-string sound. I have been using fast-fret. Anyone have an experience/advice with this or other products? (Need the strings in a long scale length set of 5 btw) Cheers