Bolo

True temperament frets And Robot tuners And D-tuners on all strings

Ikmedia iRig HD?

More compression lowers the spikes in volume to bring them in line with the body of the signal. More compression also raises the lowest troughs in volume resulting in a total output that is more predictable and can be overall louder without sudden spikes. The volume knob is there to bring the total output to desired level. This affects how heavy your signal hits the rest of the effects or preamps in your signal chain.

The tonehammer is more vintage voiced but the Aguilar AG series is clean at all levels and responsive to the EQ.

When buying these second hand just buy with your heart. Should be able to recoup your investment should you change your mind later, if you look after it. But please let us know how it turns out, with pictures

I'm 192cm tall. Good luck in the mosh pit, Stilt-smurfs!

Surely you can't hate this version!

It can even ruin a perfectly acceptable band, cue Under the Bridge, More than Words etc.

The bridge pickup is in the jazz position, not the Stingray position. Neither will do a decent Stingray impression.

I'd pass on the amp. It's not going to give you anything that Hartke won't.

Over the past 9 years I've used about 1 oz of the 4oz bottle of drDucks ax wax. It is going to last my lifetime. I get that homebrewing can be fun, but half a liter will supply a music school and all their students for a generation.

The Thatchers

Unloved, even by it's mother

Are you stepping away from the Hartke 5500? When I'm looking at second hand 210s (mainland Europe area) there seem to be plenty of different Eden's available and they pair great for a punchy, solid and clear sound with Hartke amps. What region are you in?

So a 14 day complete turnaround from mainland Europe to your doorstep and back, full refund confirmed after they have checked the returned item, and you go full Karen? Spoiled much?

Don't pull down on the string when fretting it. It's a playing technique flaw. If you can't remedy your finger placement it can be mitigated by replacing the nut with one that has the slot filed slightly more away from the edge. As mentioned earlier.

This is good This is fine This is ok Nothing wrong with this But this isn't: Nor this:

Determine what Stingray you want. One or two pickups, 2 or 3 band eq, four or five string? What are you going to use it for? Who plays a Stingray you like? A US Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray will be made in San Luis Obispo and it will say so. All of these will hit the same ballpark sound wise thanks to the humbucker in its classic position. Refinement comes from having alnico or ceramic pole pieces and the 2 or 3 band preamp. Sterling By Musicman, SUB or OLP are different instruments with different electronics and places of fabrication. These are outside of your scope if you want a 'real' ray. Stingrays are not as massively modded as fenders, mostly it's about replacing the nut if you can't cope with the G being a little closer to the edge of the fretboard. So, whaddayawant?

The answer is staring you in the face. Sell the VS4 FIRST and replace it with the 60s spec. Your wife can't tell the difference by her own admission. You'll not have 3 basses and everyone is happy.

They sell a replacement cable in straight or coiled but it doesn't look plug-and-play https://europe.beyerdynamic.com/service-set-connecting-cord.html

Some context would be nice

Just regular bass cab operating Oompa Loompas. There's eight in a 810, six in a 412 or two in a 115 (shown)

My vote is for custom moulded. However whichever you get, replace after 3-5 years. The material will deteriorate and they will lose some effectiveness.

The posts really are not there to prevent lateral movement. The downward force from the string tension is plenty to keep the saddle in place, your old may have had different issues. The intonation will often put the saddle in front or behind the mounting screw and is allowed to move freely if it could. But they won't.

To prevent any ambiguity: Bollards are great for metal.