Bolo

That's the music from the shop where I will definitely not be buying my jeans on sale.

I have mine, the rest are bonus. http://cellarguitars.com/index.php/cellar-v/

EB string are the only brand I used to break so I haven't owned any since the late 90s. I was using the pink packaged super slinky's O think. After some years of searching I've now landed on DR strings and haven't had a set disappoint me. If I were in your position I'd play the current strings to end of life to see how long they last you. Everyone has different amounts and composition of skin grease on the fingers, some more acidic than others and this will make a big difference.

What are you looking for that makes you contemplate changing the gauge? What do you want your strings to do differently than the ones it came with?

Same old nonsense. Just adjust your technique.

If we count the double soapbar type as a jazz it would account for over 80% of the for sale adds.

Huh? Are you implying you are the orange fatberg?

There's a thin string section on the board isn't there?

Stack the heads vertically too!

1st and last fret depress is the way it's done, but you said some companies do 12th or 17th fret which is weird. What companies depress 12th or 17th fret? Id like to know so I can avoid them.

I've never heard anything but 1st and last fret. Who are those people?

https://shop.warwick.de/de/ersatzteile-fuer-instrumente/warwick-ersatzteile/bunddraht/warwick-parts-brass-frets?c=3572&number=D0903032001564882613A1894-A00000018886 You can order a set and have a local luthier put them in the bass of your choice.

Would Warwick brass frets be an option? I'm not metallurgicaly educated, so sorry if unhelpful.

The pre reminds me of the hartke ha3500, clean and barely any character which is perfect if your sound comes from your fingers, your bass or your effects. The d.i. works in the same way. I wouldn't record through it but it's fine for live signal to front of house. Typical Harley Benton I'd say, functional without much fanfare, for a great price.

I have a HB 800b as backup amp. It's fine, responsive to EQ, has the standard poweramp as all 800w class D so power in excess. Less than 2kg I think and easy to pack. If you want tube sound or drive you will need a preamp.

Look at stickers, sew-on patches, logo sunglasses, socks, keychains, i.e. cheap-ish, easy to pick up 80-90 styled wearables.

Eastwood sounds like it could be a country right? Clint Eastwood - Gorillas

That 60ish Motown ploddy sound (b15) or that 70ish punk/hardrock (v4) sound or that 80s onward svt sound?

I'll make an offer of what I think is a price I'm happy with. Then it's up to the seller to accept, reject, or suggest a new price. I can then accept the outcome or stop the negotiations, any further haggling I would consider rude. In this process everyone has had a chance to name their price point and that's that.

What strings are you using and how old are they? What's the rest of your signal path, preamp straight to desk or to an amp? If so what amp and cab? What other effects on your board if any? Hellzero has a good point about the ears, ever done a hearing test?

This is so much better than the fender headstocks already!

Half the weight of an svt at double the sound quality. Worth it.

DR strings like the low riders are a bit stoffer. Gauge has very little to do with it, the shape of the core of the string however is relevant. A hex core string feels different than a round core even though they are identical on the outside. Any strings that have something like "higher stiffness" in the description will work nicely.

Hughes and Kettner bassbase?