DorsetBlue

I am thinking about doing the serial mod on my VMJ, preferably with a push pull pot. Has anyone done this mod, was there sufficient space in the cavity for the push-pull without additional routing and what pot do you recommend (and supplier)?

As I stated in the PLI thread, speaking as an Electrical and Electronics Engineer by training (I am not a 'sparkie' though) and being responsible for Design Certifying systems within a FTSE100 company that is very anal about risk mitigation and litigation, I agree with what Leonard Smalls says with the caveat that ubassman adds. Anyone who is half competent is fully able to do visual inspections on electrical kit (although remedying any faults...maybe not). However understanding the electrical theory behind the results from the test equipment is another thing and IF you end up in court, unless you have any qualification behind you (even the PAT certificate) I would expect a solicitor would rip you a new one (e.g. if you don't understand speaker impedance or ohms law, you cannot be considered competent to use the test equipment IMHO). Get a sparkie (if you work for a reasonably sized company, there maybe someone already 'trained' to do it for that company - throw them some beer vouchers to do it for you) to do the Test Equipment test as often as legally required and do the visual inspections yourself (but only repairs if you are competent).

[quote name='bonzodog' timestamp='1367006906' post='2060298'] Like the previous poster, PAT certificate is also good to get (Portable Appliance Test). Most electricians will come round your house and test your gear for about £25.00 and give you a 12month certificate. Or you can buy your own testing equipment. [/quote] I would be a little careful about the last sentence, the HSE state: [b] [url="http://www.hse.gov.uk/electricity/faq-portable-appliance-testing.htm#q6"]I have been told that I have to get an electrician to do portable appliance testing work. Is that correct?[/url][/b] The person doing testing work needs to competent to do it. In many low-risk environments, a sensible (competent) member of staff can undertake visual inspections if they have enough knowledge and training. However, when undertaking combined inspection and testing, a greater level of knowledge and experience is needed, and the person will need:[list] [*]the right equipment to do the tests [*]the ability to use this test equipment properly [*]the ability to properly understand the test results [/list] As an Engineer (Electrical and Electronic by qualification), I would say that 'should the worst happen' self-tested items conducted by someone without Electrical qualifications, would be consider invalid in court. If you work for a company with someone who does the internal PAT testing, have a word/offer to drop them some beer money to do it for you. Likewise if you know an electrician (they don't make any money from PAT testing - too many people out there doing it), see what deal you can come up with. The £25 mentioned seems reasonable.

They had an article about them in Total Guitar last month, which was when I first heard about them (didn't cover the bassist, as it is TG). Wikipedia has this to say about the bassist: "At gigs Este has developed a reputation for her blunt and coarse banter with the crowd, often to her sisters' embarrassment." Doesn't mention the gurning.

Liked it, voted.

Perhaps that is why Muse wrote Panic Station, you then get them and slap (not pop) together in one package.

We were having a chuckle about that yesterday in the office, I like them though.

They do this bass in all colours in Left Handed as well - I really like the look of this bass too *GAS*.

[quote name='terocious' timestamp='1366632304' post='2055070'] TC Electronic BG250. I've tried one and liked it. It's less than 400€. [/quote] Or, I know you said no Head/Cab combo but the head is so small it will go in your gig bag, the TC BH250 and BC210/212 cab.

Well that is a really bizarre webpage (the TC one for this editor). Specifically points out that TonePrint is used in the BG250 and BH250...and then you read the comments at the bottom which point out it is not compatible with the BG/BH.

What bands do you like? Do they do a play-along series for that band? If so, buy it and take the opportunity to play a tune sometimes. As others have said, the theory will help further down the line but you have to have fun as well.

Okay, I spent about 2 hours noodling around with setups at AM yesterday and.......ended up with a TC BH250 and TC BC210. Cabs ended up between BC210 and BC212, the BC210 just won out and I am not sure quite how to describe why I preferred the sound. Amps ended up between the Ampeg PF-350 (they did not have a 500 in) and the BH250, I loved the Ampeg tone but it did not seem quite as flexible as the BC (BC seemed to be able to do the 'clean' sound better for example) and the BC also seemed gruntier through the (admittedly TC) cab. After trying these mini-amps, I couldn't forsee playing anywhere needing more volume for the next couple of years, and if I did, there might be a DI PA anyway or I could add another BC210 or BC212. Now a happy chappy and everything fits nicely in the house, is lightweight and shakes the house at anything over 9 o'clock. Thanks everyone for their suggestions.

[quote name='the_skezz' timestamp='1365787051' post='2044622'] What we were made to remember on my supervisor course was that they're not intended to catch you if you fall - they're supposed to be adjusted to a length that stops you being able to go over the edge in the first place. Which makes more sense of the whole blood-flow-cutting-off-thing. [/quote] I work on ships, sometimes you are over a large drop and ours include drop speed reducers to help (not me, I prefer to stay inside but I do have to venture on top of the bridge on rare occasions). The dockyard has a team dedicated to getting people down within (ideally) 10 mins I believe. Basically I don't want to test it.

[quote name='Truckstop' timestamp='1365762601' post='2044023'] If you like your B3, why not buy a power amp (decent ones can be got for £150) and spend the rest on awesome cabs? Truckstop [/quote] Intriquing idea, when I was looking at setups about 6 months ago I found the Behringer V-Amp Pro posts on TalkBass and a lot of them had done just that. AM doesn't seem to have appropriate power amps in stock but then I don't suppose you really need to test drive a power amp for tone? Crown seem to be a good make (but more costly and rather over powered?). The only make I can find that seems to meet your price range is W Audio which has a bridge compatible 500W PA called the EP 500. That is £110. Hmm, its certainly an option that I need to weigh up with being dependant on the B3/Pre-Amp.

Been tracking this model for some time, mainly because it comes Leftie and I liked the Ibanez SR600 that I saw in a local dealer Guitar Mania (right handed luckily - explained shortly). I understand the SR600 is made by Cort and to be honest they do look very similar. The main difference is the price, the SR600 I have not seen for less than £560. I got this brand new B4 from American Guitar Centre (via Ebay) for £360. [url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/515/imag0441vd.jpg/"][/url] Before I bought it, I was a little concerned about the nut width, as I have been unable to find any information about it anywhere (even in the BGM review, more on this later). I currently play a Jazz, so I am quite used to the thin neck. I needed have been concerned (I do have quite large hands), the nut seems to be about 1-2mm wider than my jazz and is possibly a bit more substantial cross sectionally. The wood used (laminate Wenge and Rosewood) looks lovely and has a satin effect which suits me great for moving up and down the fretboard. The fretboard is rosewood too (slightly lighter in colour) and matches the neck well. All the frets are well dressed and the nut has been well setup (either factory or store) with a low action. So far I have found the B4 to be a lot easier to play than my Jazz (I probably ought to get my Jazz professionally setup). [url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/255/imag0443w.jpg/"][/url] BGM did say there was an issue with the nack pocket on these basses, not on this one - looks pretty damn tight to me, with only a little roughness to the wood on one side of the pocket. The body is a natural effect Ash, with a well defined grain pattern. There are a couple minor spots where I could see this block having been rejected by an expensive manufacturer for a grain 'defect' but I really like the natural feel. Yes, if I was spending >£1000 on a custom bass, I would probably be a little more 'precious' about it...on the other hand, I like character. As I understand it, the electronics are very similar to those on the SR600 - with Bartolini MK1 pickups and pre-amp. I must admit the variations in tone provided by this setup are a little bewildering to me at the moment, coming off of a passive J. Also I am a little restricted by my current amp but all I can say from a relative beginners prospective, the controls do indeed make significant changes to the tone and seem to be linear with no grittiness in action. I certainly found some tones I liked and it was even easy to find a nice sounding setting for, my frankly dreadful, slap. The switch does not form a passive/active function (which would have been nice if the battery fails - it will be interesting to find out the warning signs for this occuring) but instead sets the EQ to flat or to the user defined settings. BGM stated that this could be used to allow you to switch between a flat AMP defined sound and then one defined on the bass. This seems reasonable but I am not sure currently when I might use it but it is there never the less. [url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/853/imag0442j.jpg/"][/url] Hardware wise, the bridge looks pretty substantial (intonation setup by the shop, so not touched it) and the hipshot tuners are nice and slick in operation. [url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/132/imag0444o.jpg/"][/url] So to conclude, BGM said the B4 is a good 'do it all' active bass and I can only agree. I had to buy this blind (long journey to Kent from Dorset and there are no Cort dealers locally with left handed models) but I am one happy bunny (thankfully). I think it is a really good bass for the price and I am glad I went for this one over the SR600 and the Schecter Stiletto Studio (6 week delivery time, no chance to try it beforehand and £400 more expensive).

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1365759298' post='2043937'] Now I'm picturing you swinging about in a harness playing your bass! [/quote] Hmm, I have done my working from heights course with harnesses. They are designed to keep you alive for max 15 mins (just the fall bit really). If you don't get rescued from the harness within 15 mins you will normally die, due to restriction of the blood flow through the major vessels in your upper legs/groin. Happy Friday everyone!!!

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1365755244' post='2043833'] Sound like you'll have some fun researching ! A trip down to Absolute Music in Poole would seem like a good place to start. [/quote] Funnily enough that was the music shop I was referring to. GK and Markbass noted.

Okay, I feel it is time to move on to my next Amplifier setup. The CR25 and/or B3 has been fine for the beginners stage but now I am getting a little more confident, I want a new setup that will have the potential to manage small gigs (my next target milestone), with maybe some additional 'future proofing'. The main requirements I have identified are:[list] [*]Ideally has an effects loop (B3 for the rare occasions I need some effects) [*]Ideally has XLR output (could use B3 I guess) [*]At least 200W [*]Lightweight and reasonably compact (the plan is for it to be out in my front room most of the time) [*]Seperate head and cabinet (I did really umm and ahh about this one I must admit). [*]Budget max £750 (ideally less) [/list] I play mainly Rock and Blues. The ones I have identified (admittedly based on the stock in a local shop) as potentials are as follows: [u]Head[/u][list] [*]Ampeg PF-350 [*]Ampeg PF-500 [*]Ampeg Micro VR [*]Orange TB 500 [*]TC BH250 (no loop noted) [*]TC BH500 (a bit on the large side) [/list] [u]Cab[/u][list] [*]Ampeg PF-115LF [*]Ampeg SVT210AV [*]Ashdown MAG115 [*]Ashdown VS-212-200 [*]TC BC210 [*]TC BC212 [*]Roadkill 2x10 (local cab manufacturer, their guitar cabs are well respected and they are making a 2x10 and 4x10 prototypes right now) [/list] Opinions, alternatives, recommendations all gratefully received?

[quote name='ZenBasses' timestamp='1365528454' post='2040777'] Again not bass related, Looping when done right yields amazing results This is such a performance KT Tunstall on Jools [media]http://youtu.be/pdu_IWxSSk4[/media] [/quote] I was going to mention that one.

[quote name='wriggers' timestamp='1365505179' post='2040362'] Badger whores, no wonder farmers want them dead! [/quote] ...and Cricketers: [url="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-beds-bucks-herts-22039731"]http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-beds-bucks-herts-22039731[/url]

Welcome and don't forget the standard greeting when going into UK pubs: "Your mother was a hamster, and your father smelt of elderberries!"

I know nothing about Yamaha alas. Love my Squier but they are quite well regarded, so have not fallen to your price point yet. When I said Vintage, I meant the manufacturer Vintage. Do a search for Vintage LV4 (precision copy) and LV96 (MM Copy). You can get an LV4 for £180-190 new. Ibanez is always a good option though too. I did have to buy my Squier new when I started though, sometimes it is quite tough finding the lefties.

So new(ish) built american models e.g. Standard, Deluxe etc. Any years to keep away from, any years to look out for?

Secondhand Vintage basses appear about this price and seem to be well regarded. What are you doing about amplification though?

[quote name='lurksalot' timestamp='1364603287' post='2028869'] or engineers Try playing in a blues band with engineers , they know where the notes are , they know what order to play them in , but somehow , something is missing , maybe the soul/feel/life of the piece is in there somewhere but it hasn't been specified correctly [/quote] Careful, some of us Engineers make WMDs.