Norris

Unfortunately not. Replaced it with an Alpha push-switch one courtesy of KiOgon. CTS don't do a switchable one that small Here's the original showing what a tight fit it is in the chamber... ... not much clearance at all. The new loom wasn't difficult to fit though once we'd got it oriented correctly

The standard pups are reasonable. I tend to just use the P though, occasionally dialling in the J too, which gives a more humbuckerish tone - especially in parallel mode. Tuners are decent enough. Bridge is standard bbot. The main weakness was probably the tone pot that went scratchy, but a new loom didn't break the bank. For a cheap trial of a P it's not a bad choice at all

Excellent job @Grangur

Ha ha. I propped it up in the tidiest corner. I'm not showing the music room in public given the state it's in! The joys of having children

Yes. Lovely bass. Serial number starts IM04 = Indonesia 2004? Beautiful slim neck, lovely finish in gunmetal metallic and still in excellent condition. I dropped a set of quarter pounders in and have fitted a drop tuner. The tone pot packed up so I got a @KiOgon loom and now have series/parallel switch. That caused a little headscratching to shoehorn it in, as it's fitted with mini pots and the routing is tight, with the scratch plate barely covering it It's been my main gigging bass for a few years now despite several much more expensive basses in my collection Edit: As for cost, the bass was £150 second hand from BC classifieds. SD QP set was £100. It's paid for itself many times over. I originally bought it as a project donor, but it was too nice to mess with. Even the original cheapo pups sounded pretty good

Zźzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Nudge me when it's over! Luckily we don't do it often. I can't even be arsed to flick the lever on my drop tuner for it

A hacksaw, a half round metal file and wet & dry paper are all you need really. You'll want to scribe the outline, and you could sharpen the tip of a large nail to do that (using your half round file) You'll need a couple of drill bits too, as you'll need holes for your pots & switches, and for the fixing holes. Use your largest drill bit as a countersink for the fixing holes. Again you can use your sharpened nail as a centre punch before drilling to stop the drill bit wandering Those tools would probably cost less than £20

Seemingly countless gigs in Working Men's Clubs playing to one old bloke who steadfastly stayed engrossed in his copy of Racing Post with his dog curled up at his feet For the benefit of @Bluewine... https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Working_men's_club https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Racing_Post

The wedding many years ago. I don't know what events took place beforehand, but our trio very nearly outnumbered the guests! Another wedding, the brother of the groom hospitalised his dad by giving him a good kicking. We were locked in the venue for about 2 hours while police investigated the crime scene and we didn't get paid for about 2 months afterwards. We don't do weddings any more

If you fitted a metal milling bit in your router, possibly. I don't know if I'd want to do it though!

I'd say maybe even go as far as polishing the brass before plating. As Jabba says, sanding marks will show through the chrome. Luckily the one that I didn't polish was an internal plate so no-one is any the wiser... oops - that's let the cat out of the bag!

Lovely job. It must be a lot easier binding a flat plate. When I did my tele I had to pre-cut the rebate and glue it on before binding

It won't necessarily be easy to tell. If it's a conventional single-acting rod it will have a bow in the middle of the neck towards the rear of typically 2-3mm

And has wheels!

That's looking very neat. Nice job!

😂🤣

My thoughts exactly. I do mine freehand and check with an engineering set square and caliper. Total cost = a couple of sheets of abrasive paper

Now there's a great name for a band

It makes you wonder why pubs are not packed to the rafters with punters. Do they really stay in to watch the drivel or is there somewhere else they go? My kids (16 & 21) would rather watch YouTube than TV

Great idea. Once you've got a drop D tuner you'll never go back

I envy you having the time to spend building (let alone your skills!) Fabulous work

I did do a build thread but on another site. Non-bass guitar builds were not quite so prevalent on BC back when I started that one. If heat is not bending it enough for you, you could try a dab of acetone to soften it slightly before heat bending. Too much or too long with the acetone may distort it though. You can get small bottles of acetone from your local pharmacy. It doesn't half evaporate quickly though! (I spilled some and the floor was wet for about 5 seconds!) Maybe try some on a small offcut. Failing that you may need to cut and join it

Already owning a thunderbird, the only other Gibson basses that appeal to me are the ripper & grabber. They don't make those atm though. I never could get on with the EB/SG shape and LPs don't do it for me either

They are not the most ergonomic and comfortable basses. Playing a non-cs on your knee is like torture after half an hour or so. Still iconic though

What type of binding are you using? I managed to get celluloid binding round a 1/4" turn. I used a hairdryer to get it nice and hot so I could bend it, then used weld-on to glue it. Once it was set, I then used a few drops of acetone in the slight gaps so I could pull those in and neaten it up