Norris

A good, free introduction to CAD is inkscape. I've used it quite a bit for designing various bits of guitars. https://inkscape.org/en/ CAM is a slightly more involved subject, but you can use software to convert your inkscape files into a suitable format and then add the depth information for CNC milling. Not wanting to detract from BC, but ProjectGuitar.com have a forum dedicated to computer aided manufacture that contains a wealth of information

Well engineered + beautiful aesthetics = gorgeous!

Did you manage to try it with the 2x10 cab? That's what is in the V3 combos and I certainly wouldn't describe it as anaemic

On my 80s Aria the batteries would definitely discharge at different rates. One would last for months and months, the other only about 6 weeks. A quick "tip of the tongue" test identified which was which, until I eventually wrapped a small piece of gaffa tape round the lead of the one that needed changing most frequently

That's wrong on so many levels

We'll do pretty much any request as long as it's from the 20th century. Any requests for Kings of Leon, Arctic Monkeys, etc. receive a good telling off

It's where my luthier guru gets his from

Do you cut your own inlays? If not I can heartily recommend Small Wonder Music. He did an excellent job on mine and very reasonably priced I thought for the work involved

Excellent!

Three is the magic number - or at least that's what De La Soul would have you believe

Neck carving is the best bit, and over too soon

I'll take a decent quality black T-shirt with the logo tastefully placed over the left moob. And/or a decent black zipped hoodie with a larger logo emblazoned across the back. Socks could be quite popular too for the suited day jobs amongst us

Isn't the neck of Brian May's Red Special held on with one bolt?

IIRC in the mid-80s the 70s Fenders were regarded as poop and nowhere near as good as the 60s guitars. But then has been mentioned, they were not the most fashionable guitars around then either. Everyone was after headless, pointy or super-strats. I went for an Aria SB-1000 myself

Or simply a fine brush to "drop fill" the flaws that need building up. (I used my wife's finest watercolour brush!) Then a decent going over with sandpaper and block to get it back to level. Rinse and repeat as required. As you are using nitrocellulouse it will sink a bit (possibly up to 30% from experience) as the solvent evaporates out

There's only a veneer's width between the two

Ooh. That looks nicer than my Stewmac Dremel router base - which doesn't really plunge or have a decent depth stop. I usually have to set it to depth then tighten everything up to stop it vibrating loose. At least it's more stable than the official Dremel offering though

I think we need a photo of your "workshop"

I forgot to mention - ideally you'd hang the bass up for 24 hours between painting sessions, of 2 or 3 coats with at least 30 minutes between each. If you're hanging it up in your car all credit to you, but make sure you ventilate it well before climbing in. The solvent can take weeks to vent off and will be quite strong even after several hours. I can just picture you driving home with a full mask on (?!!!)

Nitrocellulouse rattle cans. Check out Manchester Guitar Tech. Cheaper and good quality stuff I've heard a few comments about you doing woodwork in the car park (We work at the same large company)

Any clear coat will tend to darken the wood - except for the finish that @Andyjr1515 used on the Psilos build recently (which contains a hint of white pigment to keep it light) Make sure the first coat is flattened nicely, then another coat of sealer and gentle sand back should do. You'll then want to apply 2 or 3 coats of lacquer with only gentle sanding between coats. You don't want to burn through to the sealer. Then you can lay on more coats to finish as required. What lacquer are you using? Nitrocellulouse is a bit more forgiving because the coats merge together. Poly will form distinct layers so you need to be a bit more careful with the sanding to avoid burning through - you'll see witness lines if you do. Oil finishes such as tru-oil can also be polished up to a high gloss if you have the patience to do so. Most types of lacquer need careful attention to the health and safety warnings - it's not nice stuff to be breathing in!

Tell that to Jeff Ament (Pearl Jam). They wouldn't sound the same without it

In preparation you can try playing your fretted bass with your eyes closed and aim to get your fingers just behind the fret wire. That's the main difference (apart from slides) - you don't have that margin of error of the full fret width. Where are you based? There may be a fellow member willing to loan you one to try out. I'm in Leicester and you're quite welcome to borrow my Mexican Jazz for a bit

Why are bass players usually the sensible/practical/organiser one in the band?

What do you consider to be essential spares to carry with you? (Or is that a bit mundane?)