Norris

Beautiful work

I'd probably lend them the gear but suggest that if they are going to start gigging regularly they ought to think about investing in their own gear. It depends how you feel about it (and obviously you have some issues or you wouldn't have posted about it) and how a refusal might affect the dynamic of your band. Maybe ask for a deposit in case anything gets damaged? Edit: Maybe offer to help find them some suitable gear to purchase from the for sale section

I avoid wet sanding completely I use micromesh pads dry, and wipe the dust off regularly with a monofibre cloth every few strokes

Have you got any 600 grit sterated aluminium oxide paper? It's ideal for final preparation of wood before applying finish and flatting off between coats. I got mine from eBay. If you apply paint too heavy you can always knock it back with a bit of flat sanding. I'd also consider drilling the holes before grain filling. You don't want to knock any filler out round the holes.

Any fan of the correct dimensions, voltage and air flow should do the job. They are usually pretty standard parts, but to source a replacement you are going to need to know the specifications of the existing fan. If you find those out, I'm sure someone will be able to direct you to a suitable replacement

Height, width and depth? Or even a photo?

You've got a real proud dad look going on there! Lovely photo

"You want to start a Glee club?!"

"There's a lady who knows all that glitters is gold"...

Dictator: "The Americans battle with these?!" Lackey: "They make you squeal like a pig, sir"

That sounds pretty good. I bet it's a great sofa noodler

I was gutted when I dropped a tool on the top of my meticulously prepped guitar, creating quite a large dint. It steamed out eventually and required only light sanding afterwards. It is surprising.

I'm now eyeing up that tin of high VOC hardglaze that I have sitting in the garage. There must be at least a litre left in the tin. I wonder how old it is, what state it's in and how much it might be worth to someone

A kitchen towel is likely to shed fibres that will end up in your finish. Microfibre cloths don't shed fibres. I imagine that @Andyjr1515 is well practiced in avoiding streaks

If you put a few drops of water on the ding, put a damp cotton cloth over it then gently use your steam iron to get it nice and hot, you'll probably be able to steam the ding out. Edit: That's assuming it's still bare wood

I've just bought myself a Makita RT0700CX4 (which they describe as a trimmer) for that same reason. The lighter weight and adjustable speed is far better for hand-held guitar building purposes. Also that particular model comes with side bearing guide that is ideal for routing the rebate for binding.

Gigs like that happen. We've had weekends where we've done a couple of gigs. One has been a brilliant, buzzing event and the other has been completely flat. We've not done anything different. Often it's the gig you're really looking forward to is the crap one and the one that you're not expecting much from is brilliant. Mark it down to experience and march on. If a particular venue is consistently poor we do discuss if we want to continue playing there. It's certainly beyond comprehension if a venue doesn't do any promotion and quite frustrating. In years to come it's the really poor gigs that will give you a laugh when you look back at them - wedding reception with only one guest apart from the bride and groom anyone?! Don't let it put you off

One bottle of dye should be plenty, unless you are doing a lot of sanding back and re-dyeing as you might when popping grain on figured maple, etc.

Looks like Dartfords have changed their colour charts recently and only display a single shade now. Rothcoe and Frost use the old 2-tone colour guide but don't explain the difference between the shades. I have an old colour chart downloaded on my work computer but won't be back in the office for a few days. If you're really curious and I can remember to look for the download when I get back to work, I'll confirm the difference in shade. Having said that, it's only a guide and will probably look completely different on your bass rather than the sample wood they used anyway

I think one is raw and the other is with lacquer iirc. It does say on the site/pdf somewhere

I've only used lacquer so far, and then I used sanding sealer after grain filling and dyeing. I think you'd grain fill and then use primer if you're painting it

Very unusual. Very nice. It looks gorgeous

Chances are your neck is a tight enough fit. If you're going to add paint or lacquer that will close up the space. As long as it's within about half a mm you're fine. If you grain fill, do it a couple of times. You WILL miss bits on your first pass, or it may sink very slightly. It's a key stage to getting a good finish, and trying to build up any remaining pores with paint/lacquer gets time consuming and expensive. It looks a lovely body for the money

If you're after an aggressive, rocky sound then chances are you'll have the volume and tone turned up full. In effect you'll be shorting out the resistance, so it wouldn't make a huge difference which value pots you use. It's only when you back off the knobs that there would be a difference. A passive P bass would usually have 250k pots.

Last year our guitarist/lead vocalist had a bout of bronchitis and his voice still isn't up to strength. The drummer and I are going to have to step up to the plate a bit more to give him some rest time. Although I've been doing BVs and the occasional lead for years I appreciate the advice on here. Certainly last weekend I did about the best performance ever of the one I do lead vox on, mainly down to singing with confidence. The more you do the better it gets