Norris

I'll just add to the advice of @Jabba_the_gut by saying that when routing the neck pocket you can remove a lot of the material with a brad point drill bit first. That will save a lot of wear and tear on your router bit. Then go steady with the router, shaving a mm or two in each pass - helps reduce the risk of tear-out. I'm sure you don't need reminding to be really careful with the router - they are vicious machines that want to carve fingers!

Both. I just wish there were more cables with angled plugs on both ends because I like to do the same with my pedalboard amd amp

I might add that that is flamed maple. You might need to use some grain filler depending on the size of the pores in your wood. There is also a few coats of nitrocellulouse sanding sealer on top of the dye before the lacquer

When I built my telecaster guitar I used spirit based dye from Rothcoe and Frost and then finished it in clear nitrocellulouse lacquer from Manchester Guitar Tech. I'm well chuffed with the result

Heaven - a decent music venue packed with punters and a great sound Hell - a boomy village hall fitted with a sound meter that cuts the power if anybody speaks above a whisper

I've not built a bass yet, but I will bring along the completed Nozcaster if you don't mind such blasphemy.

Do you live anywhere near the East Midlands? If you can make it to the next bass bash I'll happily bring mine along and let you have a blast

Ooh is this a "post a photo of your SB-1000" thread?

Covers for your kit will help. My stuff lives out in the garage and I've never had a problem. My guitarist keeps a hairdryer in the back of his amp and sets it going as soon as we arrive at a gig if there's any sign of condensation, so it has 1/2 hour or so to dry out before he switches it on

Have you got something against Thomas the Tank Engine then?

So are you going to try my conservation of momentum method next?

I have another method. First of all take your car to your local weighbridge and get it weighed accurately. Then drive into your bass at a known speed, ensuring that all momentum is transferred to the instrument in question. Measure the speed at which your bass travels and by simply applying the law of conservation of momentum you can then work out the mass of your bass. If you lack the necessary equipment to measure the bass velocity accurately, then just measure the distance travelled by the bass, contact the highways department to find out the coefficient of friction of your local road surface and apply basic Newtonian physics. It really couldn't be easier

The crucial part of any spoon is the angle between bowl and handle a.k.a. the breakfast angle. If too shallow it will suffer nut rattles, causing a lack of pudding cohesion

Through experimentation see how much weight a swallow can carry. Then simply see how many swallows it takes to fly off with your bass

If your bass weighs less than a duck then it's a witch and you should burn it #MontyPython

It depends on the length of the neck pocket i.e. which fret the neck joins the body at.. Certainly it's a measurement to check. And yes if it's a shorter scale neck the bridge would need to move towards it. If both body and neck are 34" scale and the neck joins the body on the same fret as the original neck used to, you shouldn't have to move the bridge

If it helps, air flow is usually measured in cfm - or cubic feet per minute

Yes, so would need to be measured from nut to 12th fret and then doubled to get the bridge saddle position

Could have sworn it was bridge - but then alcohol was in attendance by both parties

I'm in the Cheeze with Danny. Tim is in the Backbeat Drivers with Danny (as well as MT's band). Tim occasionally stands in for our drummer e.g. this coming Sunday and one night a couple of weeks ago

Tim is a very nice chap and an excellent drummer (definitely rates as a musician unlike some!). My guitarist Danny Willson plays in Martin's band too. If it helps you to get the sound, Martin told me he only ever uses the bridge pickup and always with a pick

I never really had an opinion either way on Tom Robinson. However after seeing him play at a festival last year I was struck by what a thoroughly nice chap he is. Over the course of the set he recounted his experiences, the highs and lows - especially when he was virtually banned from the airwaves for being "Glad to be Gay", and later on rediscovering success with War Baby. He wasn't too shoddy a bass player either. It turned out to be one of the highlights of the festival for me

Here - have a close-up if you like

I just drilled a hole that was half way between the inner and outer dimensions of the splines and then pressed it on gently but firmly - once. And there they will stay. If they do come loose I'll wick some CA into the hole, let it dry and then refit them. The most robust way would probably to have a female splined insert to glue into the knob. There again you can over-think these things and it's not like I'm going to hang any weight off them

Amp (covered), multi-fx and lead bag in the garage. A couple of basses under the bed, empty cases in the wardrobe, a guitar or two in the front room. Everything else in the study - 3 of my basses, my eub, my son's bass, one of a mate's that I'm supposed to be fixing... plus the piano, keyboards, electric drum kit, flute, cornet, ukes, and the bits & bobs of the current guitar build. My trombone lives in the loft