Norris

By how much is the circuit board in the way? It can only be a few mm. If you're going to cut it, only take as much as you need to. You certainly don't want the tip of the jack plug touching the board though as there's a fair chance you'll short out your signal if it does. Some careful work with a Dremel cutter would be needed to cut perpendicular to the edge, and I'd probably use a tiny drill to make a line of holes to join the two slots, then carefully cut through the remaining metal track with a Stanley knife. The board should snap easily enough if you drill the perforations but you want to avoid lifting the track, so cut through it first

Cool. I thought a photo might get some others to make suggestions. The only other suggestion I can add is that it looks like there are no actual components or connections where the board is fouling the jack clearance. It might be possible to very carefully cut the circuit board to give you the clearance, glue on some support across the corner to stop the board flexing too much and then use a length of wire to bridge the connection. It looks like the thick track there is probably the 0v screening.

Lovely work as usual Jabba. Will this one make it to the Mids Bass Bash?

[quote name='MoJo' timestamp='1489870015' post='3260497'] Personally, I think it would be a good idea to have a few more 'budget' basses (Squiers, Yamaha BB's, Ibanez GSR's) at these gatherings for people in the market for an affordable bass to try. There's usually plenty of 'exotica'. Would be nice to see some basses from the other end of the scale. [/quote] I brought my Squier last time iirc. I can bring it again if you want. You're welcome to try it out through the house rig. It's my main gigging bass.

Have you already drilled the jack entry hole, or could you move it up closer to the strap button? Failing that you might need to relocate the preamp board and use flying leads (with possibly another/extended cutout) Photos would help

[quote name='Telebass' timestamp='1489428631' post='3256848'] If it's labelled P-Bass Special, then it has a Jazz neck. [/quote] Yep. Jazz neck, precision body and PJ pups (although I rarely dial in the J). I never could get on with baseball bat necks.

Very nice work

It does seem like there will be an awful lot of kit there if everyone brings what they have mentioned. I won't be bringing anything except hopefully be thinline Telecaster guitar I've been building as I know it's of particular interest to some of the other builders that are attending. I live in the village though and can quickly pop home to fetch anything else that people may want to try. I'll also try to sort a suitable raffle prize and maybe a cake too

Something to consider too is the height of the bridge. Fender bridges tend to be shorter to go with the zero neck angle - which makes for easier/cheaper manufacturing. Gibsons will generally have a higher bridge and the neck tilted back slightly in relation to the body. You may need to have a packing piece under the bridge or to recess the bridge into the body a bit depending which bridge you are fitting to which guitar.

Nice one! Yes, routers are to be respected

Very nice work. That's going to look beautiful

Don't get the Fender. I don't want anybody else getting such fabulous tone in such a compact and lightweight combo as I do. Nothing to see here. Look elsewhere

The Ampeg BA108 is worth a listen. Possibly not the smallest amp ever but still quite bijou and sounds fantastic even with a low B

My Indonesian Squier P Bass Special (in pewter metallic too) is also 38mm nut

A bit of gaffa tape should sort that no problem

Actually I would have been tempted to leave the shot in place as a talking point. Bit late now though. An alternative would have been to saved some sawdust, pack it into the holes and then wick in some superglue

First of all put a few drops of water in the dents and keep adding more as it soaks in. Then lay a quite damp cloth over the top and use a steam iron on its hottest setting to really heat it up. Rinse and repeat a few times. Leave it overnight to dry out and the wood will rise up as it dries. You can pop out a dent up to 2-3mm that way. Then you have less to sand out to get a smooth finish. Of course it depends how deep the dents are.

Black tuners and gold swifts!

I'm building a g****r which is why there's no build thread on here. I thought I'd better start off with a toy before moving onto a proper instrument

I'm not sure where you live but if it's anywhere near North Leicestershire there is an evening class at Rawlins College in Quorn on a Monday night. It's more like a club than a structured course. You can build pretty much anything you want within a pretty well equipped school workshop. There are three experts on hand to advise you, the main one being luthier Colin Keefe (ex-Eggle guitars, now independent). Fees are 80 odd quid for a ten week term of 2 hour sessions. If you're interested search for "Guitar Building at Rawlins College" or drop me a PM and I'll put you in touch. They have a page on Facebook and a website afaik. Numbers are limited obviously. Many members have been attending for years and are very knowledgeable and supportive too

[quote name='GarethFlatlands' timestamp='1488399757' post='3248691'] Any advice on what size bit I'll need? [/quote] One that will fit into the tightest radius you want to cut i.e. the sharpest corner. Also find out what size collet (the "chuck" size if it was a drill) is on the router - there a couple of different sizes

For finer grained wood such as maple you could try some 0000 grade wire wool but it snags too much on ash

If you're dyeing the wood you'll probably want to source a clear grain filler if you're intending a gloss lacquer finish. Dye, fill, then lacquer.

If your body is ash you'll find that the dark debris from wet and dry paper will stick in the pores of the wood. It even does it with finer grained wood such as maple. I've had very good results with 400 grit sterated aluminium oxide paper that I got from eBay. It's Silverline brand and came in a 5m roll. It's remarkably clog-free on non-oily woods. Part number 993057. You'll probably want to use something like 120 grit for gentle shaping and then use the 400 for final finishing

Great to see some progress again. The middle wood looks like you've done the dark strips in a V shape because of the perspective - that's a cool idea that I might steal one day