Norris

Yes, recessing the bridge is another, albeit more intrusive method of achieving the same result. A heel shim is the quickest fix. A full shim (thickness depends whether you angle it) involves a bit more work but will be visible. I doubt whether you would hear the difference between a partial shim and a "full contact" one tbh

The whole point of the neck angle is to get the frets on the bridge end of the neck to the correct height based on the straight line between nut and bridge I.e. your strings. Regardless of the factory neck angle, what Manton is saying is that you now need slightly more neck angle to get the geometry correct for your bass in its present state. A slight shim at the heel end will allow you to get the action you're after without the saddles bottoming out

We got one for my lads birthday and I'm well impressed. The fact that it doesn't rattle and fart is a major plus point, but it actually sounds good and would easily be up to an acoustic gig. Wedge shape is nice too if you fancy a bit of tilt

He"s probably talking about me I did some colour fastness tests on several lovely shades of blue, that faded quite badly. I had no issues with the red I tested. Wanting a blue guitar, I had to resort to the limited range of blue shades available as "proper" aniline wood dyes. I'd rather have used the ink if it hasn't faded so badly - ending up almost grey in some cases.

For internal routes such as control cavities you may find it easier to use a guide bush. Then you can use thinner templates such as 6mm MDF and get a longer plunge. It does mean calculating an offset (the guide will be a larger diameter than your bit) but you don't need a bearing on your cutter. Edit: And it's safest to do a test route on scrap wood first to check you've got the offset right (yep, I've had to re-make a couple of templates, but better than getting it wrong on the guitar!)

The key is not removing too much material in one pass. If you need to use the full depth of the cutter to get the bearing on the template, shave a mm or two off with each pass until you work your way to it. Don't try to chew it all out in one go.

I did like the thread on PG where someone calculated the "cone of clamping pressure" and made a paper template for the clamping locations. Never enough clamps though - I'm going to have to invest in a few sash clamps for my next build! Lovely work so far Andy. I wish I could work as quickly as you (PG = ProjectGuitar.com if you are into your build threads)

I suppose I'm lucky in that I've never had to wear ear protection as we just don't play that loud. The guitarist is the same (although he wears them for his pro band) and doesn't like it too loud. We only mic the vocals - nothing else through the PA It really doesn't have to be deafening to get a good tone or to have a good night. Think of the poor punters too - will your liability insurance cover hundreds of people with hearing loss?

Was pro for a year or two at a very low level, but then decided I wanted to earn money. Day job and weekend warrior for the last 30 odd years

My Boss GT6B multi-fx has a few amp and cab sims built in. They don't call them by their copyrighted names but it's fairly simple to work out what they are

A few times in my youthful exuberance but not for many years. Fingers too

If you're happy with a darker shade,could you over-spray it with a tinted lacquer? (If you have no chips or dents in the existing finish)

If a DB is double bass, what fraction bass will yours be?

So a DB uke

Are you going to play it upright? I'm still having trouble picturing it so will be interested to see how it progresses

At least you didn't nail it on

Ooo - I like that!

Looking fantastic! I love my shinto rasp too

Darned double post!

We use a pair of Mackie 450s for our trio. We only put vocals through the PA and that is plenty at the volume levels we play at - mainly pub gigs. They are not too heavy, make a reasonable sound and are quite affordable second hand. As they are powered cabs we only need a mixer to feed a line level signal. Certainly worth a look

I bought one bass unseen just because it HAD been gigged for several years by the previous owner. It was a bass from a maker of variable QC, so I reasoned that if it made the owner want to gig it then it must be a good one

The BT7 is described as being for MIM Fenders, and was also the one that fitted my Indonesian Squier P Bass Special. However do double check the dimensions of your bass against the specs on the Hipshot website. It's a bit of a faff and slightly confusing but the information is on there

If you look at the top of the nut down onto where the allen key goes in, anti-clockwise (or "lefty") to loosten, clockwise ("righty") to tighten. Take it steady

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1470165679' post='3103815'] Oh and if its rattling on an open E its possible the nut is cut too low too! [/quote] Yes - I was going to say check that the (slighty thicker) string is sitting comfortably in the nut slot

Blimey. You could probably get two boards out of that. The fretboard I got for my guitar build wasn't planed either, but was probably a bit cheaper than yours. Planing is nice though - very therapeutic