Norris

Assuming that it's not damp from storage (a day or two at room temperature should sort that) it sounds like it needs someone who knows what they are doing to take a look inside

Turn the power off then twiddle all of the knobs and sliders for a few minutes. That should clean any accumulated muck off the tracks. If that doesn't work give them a squirt of switch cleaner (aka electrical contact cleaner) such as Servisol, and do the twiddling trick again. If that still doesn't work you may have to look at replacing the pots

You could do it either way. Paul5's way gives you somewhere to attach the negative wires. Icastle's way would mean joining the two negative wires together. You just need to make and break the circuit. The light will go off if you just cut the positive or both wires at the same time.

SIC - as BlueJay says, my comments were not aimed at you. I'll welcome anyone who contributes to the forum (i.e. chats a bit). My point was that there seem to be a lot of people who don't introduce themselves, don't take part in any discussions and seem to be here only to sell stuff. Being an active member is a bit like getting your stars on ebay and it's not always easy to buy from someone with no reputation. Cheers, Norris

[quote name='A.G.E.N.T.E.' timestamp='1447422525' post='2907557'] [url="http://www.rapidonline.com/Mechanical-Fastenings-Fixings/Kontakt-Chemie-207606091242-Graphit-33-Spray-200ml-87-0695"]http://www.rapidonline.com/Mechanical-Fastenings-Fixings/Kontakt-Chemie-207606091242-Graphit-33-Spray-200ml-87-0695[/url] [/quote] Ooh - I like the sound of aerosols. Anybody used it?

A sad loss. RIP

I need to screen the lower chamber of the thinline telecaster that I'm building before I glue the top piece on. Any recommendations? Copper tape might be a bit awkward to fit so I'm looking at conductive paint. Any particular brands to go for or avoid?

Maybe I was lucky. I used them for the first time last week. They had the cheapest price I could find on t'Internet and the goods (Fender CS '51 "Nocaster" pickups) arrived 2 days later in perfect condition

If they haven't bothered to post a profile picture and/or post count is zero, I close the ad immediately. There is a certain amount of trust extended to regular BC members but none at all to these fly-by-nights

No. I like to be able to play with some dynamics

You could always butcher a second pickup so you have two D/G halves and switch between them. Alternatively something like a 4-coil split Bartolini pickup might do the job. Just throwing some alternatives into the mix

Are you wanting to place the E/A half of the pickup the bridge side of the D/G half? If so I'd probably make the hole rectangular and then make a pair of holders for each of the configurations so that it's a slot in module. Are you intending to refinish the bass? It might be awkward to avoid disturbing the existing finish - you're bound to get a few chips. It won't be so much of a problem if you're using a scratchplate, I'd probably chamfer the edge surrounding the "module"

Yes, sometimes you can spend hours preparing for a 30 second routing session. It depends how neat you want it to turn out

Great stuff. I think I'd make an MDF intermediate template though, even if you use the top as a bearing guide. It would cut a lot easier and be less likely to incur mishap. I'd probably draw round the top and then shape the MDF by hand myself

The Dremmel plunge router is cheap but apparently quite flimsy for any accurate routing. The StewMac (Stewart Mcdonald - US based luthier supplies) ones are supposed to be a lot better. There is another Dremmel product that is apparently better but it's a full routing tool as opposed to a multi-tool attachment

I had to read it a couple of times, but I think the OP has clipped his strap to the top of the bass as it rises from the bridge strap button, near the elbow of your plucking hand. I can see how that might prevent "top tilt" but not necessarily neck dive

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1447231440' post='2905883'] The whole of that site is of some interest. [/quote] It certainly is a good read if you're interested in the science stuff

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1447230287' post='2905877'] [url="http://liutaiomottola.com/formulae/compensation.htm"]http://liutaiomottola.com/formulae/compensation.htm[/url] [/quote] That's the fella - thanks ET

There is a whole pile of complicated maths behind it. I saw a luthier website a couple of weeks ago when I was looking at fret positions for my guitar build. Unfortunately I can't remember the name of the site, but if you search for a bridge compensation calculator you'll probably find it (acoustic guitars have a fixed bridge, so the compensation has to be built in). I'll link it later when I'm on a proper computer

Also, if you're after a nice smooth curve, sometimes your fingers are better than your eyes. Get your 6mm template right and everything else will be. Don't be afraid to re-make it if it's not right the first time.

The key to accurate routing imho are the templates. I make an initial template from 6mm MDF and hand sand it to shape, which may be enough if you're doing some edge routing. If I need to plunge into the body, I'll use the thin template to make a thicker one. There are lots of different types of router bits, but the useful ones here are the ones with a bearing fitted to either the top or bottom of the bit, that you use to follow the template. I have had pretty good results with my little De Walt router. Any will do really as long as it has a standard 1/4" collet. A reasonable depth stop is essential for this kind of work and the ability to fit a side fence is handy. Take great care though. Routers can be very dangerous tools. Make sure that your template won't slip (double sided tape). Practice on scrap wood first. Wear eye protection and a dust mask (MDF and lots of types of wood dust is harmful)

I can't really play guitar but am currently building myself a telecaster. This is as an introduction to guitar building preparing for the main event - building basses. It won't stop my enjoyment of my telecaster though as I've hankered after one for a long time despite my obvious lack of talent in that direction

That looks sweet

Looking very good. They would probably use steam to get the dents out, as that causes the wood fibres to swell i.e. drape a damp cloth over the dent and then use a steam iron to gently heat it

Built into Boss GT6B for gigs, little Fender clip-on for home use. Edit: Of course in an emergency there's always the age-old method... ears!