Norris

That was my theory - to attenuate the signal a bit. Fingers crossed it seems to have worked Edit: I'll check it for volume against my passive P tonight. I guessed at the resistor values, so may have overdone it. Sounded ok though my practice amp (old tatty powered monitor wedge)

That looks great

Update: I've finally got around to slapping a pair of 10K resistors in line with the pickup wires and it seems to have cured the distortion. I'll take it along tonight and give it a blast during sound check

Thermal cutoff? Edit: I'm not familiar with the amp, but if there's a fan is it working?

Wild top horn! I'm liking it so far

[quote name='Wonky2' timestamp='1448496124' post='2915990'] I am teetering on the brink of ordering a posh padded strap.... Criteria - min 3" pref 4" , leather, black, most important, PADDED. the Levys ones look good but I can't decide if I'd just be paying over the odds for the brand, they do look well made though. I've seen lots of hand made by players types but they often look a bit like a dress prop from some battle re enactment group thingy ?? I did order a sandberg one off thomann but it was crap, cheap plastic looking and thin....sent it back and thomann were fab , even provided free postage return label ! Any suggestions on a strap welcomed? [/quote] Comfort Strapp - it's not leather but it is black and very, very comfortable

My 1980 SB-1000 is about 12mm at the nut, 15mm at the bridge. It's a very comfortable bass to play. Check out the link in my sig for the refinish thread

That looks very nice!

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1448295358' post='2914216'] On my bass i used a terminal with a screw on a ground wire and carefully screwed it on the wood inside the cavity. It made perfect contact with the conductive paint and no solder required. [/quote] Great - that's what I was thinking of doing. Glad it works

The only thing holding the grub screws in position normally is friction on the threads. If the friction is reduced by some form of lubricant or a slightly looser fit than is optimal, the grub screw can rotate as your bass vibrates. The only force then acting are the strings that naturally want to straighten the break angle across the bridge. So basically you need something to stop the grub screws turning i.e. increase the thread friction

It sounds to me (after a few reads of the OP) like the grub screws are working loose and lowering the action on the E string. If so, a dab of nail varnish or Loctite should sort it. I'd be very surprised if the saddle was moving laterally as the break angle on the string down to the anchor point should prevent that

Good progress. I'm a great believer in subconscious thinking. I'm a computer programmer by day, and with tough problems I just load up my brain with the facts and an answer pops up a day or two later

Fantastic!

I ended up getting some "Conductive Shielding Paint" from catmusic99.co.uk I got 3x 30ml bottles which should hopefully be enough Edit: And it was reasonably priced.

Nice work and quick progress too

I'm just going through that on my telecaster (guitar) build. Although that is a complete scratch build - from a pile of planks as well as being my first build of any kind! Tonight I'm going to mark out for a neck pocket template

Nice cheap repair I'm glad it wasn't anything more serious

Assuming that it's not damp from storage (a day or two at room temperature should sort that) it sounds like it needs someone who knows what they are doing to take a look inside

Turn the power off then twiddle all of the knobs and sliders for a few minutes. That should clean any accumulated muck off the tracks. If that doesn't work give them a squirt of switch cleaner (aka electrical contact cleaner) such as Servisol, and do the twiddling trick again. If that still doesn't work you may have to look at replacing the pots

You could do it either way. Paul5's way gives you somewhere to attach the negative wires. Icastle's way would mean joining the two negative wires together. You just need to make and break the circuit. The light will go off if you just cut the positive or both wires at the same time.

SIC - as BlueJay says, my comments were not aimed at you. I'll welcome anyone who contributes to the forum (i.e. chats a bit). My point was that there seem to be a lot of people who don't introduce themselves, don't take part in any discussions and seem to be here only to sell stuff. Being an active member is a bit like getting your stars on ebay and it's not always easy to buy from someone with no reputation. Cheers, Norris

[quote name='A.G.E.N.T.E.' timestamp='1447422525' post='2907557'] [url="http://www.rapidonline.com/Mechanical-Fastenings-Fixings/Kontakt-Chemie-207606091242-Graphit-33-Spray-200ml-87-0695"]http://www.rapidonline.com/Mechanical-Fastenings-Fixings/Kontakt-Chemie-207606091242-Graphit-33-Spray-200ml-87-0695[/url] [/quote] Ooh - I like the sound of aerosols. Anybody used it?

A sad loss. RIP

I need to screen the lower chamber of the thinline telecaster that I'm building before I glue the top piece on. Any recommendations? Copper tape might be a bit awkward to fit so I'm looking at conductive paint. Any particular brands to go for or avoid?

Maybe I was lucky. I used them for the first time last week. They had the cheapest price I could find on t'Internet and the goods (Fender CS '51 "Nocaster" pickups) arrived 2 days later in perfect condition