Norris

If they haven't bothered to post a profile picture and/or post count is zero, I close the ad immediately. There is a certain amount of trust extended to regular BC members but none at all to these fly-by-nights

No. I like to be able to play with some dynamics

You could always butcher a second pickup so you have two D/G halves and switch between them. Alternatively something like a 4-coil split Bartolini pickup might do the job. Just throwing some alternatives into the mix

Are you wanting to place the E/A half of the pickup the bridge side of the D/G half? If so I'd probably make the hole rectangular and then make a pair of holders for each of the configurations so that it's a slot in module. Are you intending to refinish the bass? It might be awkward to avoid disturbing the existing finish - you're bound to get a few chips. It won't be so much of a problem if you're using a scratchplate, I'd probably chamfer the edge surrounding the "module"

Yes, sometimes you can spend hours preparing for a 30 second routing session. It depends how neat you want it to turn out

Great stuff. I think I'd make an MDF intermediate template though, even if you use the top as a bearing guide. It would cut a lot easier and be less likely to incur mishap. I'd probably draw round the top and then shape the MDF by hand myself

The Dremmel plunge router is cheap but apparently quite flimsy for any accurate routing. The StewMac (Stewart Mcdonald - US based luthier supplies) ones are supposed to be a lot better. There is another Dremmel product that is apparently better but it's a full routing tool as opposed to a multi-tool attachment

I had to read it a couple of times, but I think the OP has clipped his strap to the top of the bass as it rises from the bridge strap button, near the elbow of your plucking hand. I can see how that might prevent "top tilt" but not necessarily neck dive

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1447231440' post='2905883'] The whole of that site is of some interest. [/quote] It certainly is a good read if you're interested in the science stuff

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1447230287' post='2905877'] [url="http://liutaiomottola.com/formulae/compensation.htm"]http://liutaiomottola.com/formulae/compensation.htm[/url] [/quote] That's the fella - thanks ET

There is a whole pile of complicated maths behind it. I saw a luthier website a couple of weeks ago when I was looking at fret positions for my guitar build. Unfortunately I can't remember the name of the site, but if you search for a bridge compensation calculator you'll probably find it (acoustic guitars have a fixed bridge, so the compensation has to be built in). I'll link it later when I'm on a proper computer

Also, if you're after a nice smooth curve, sometimes your fingers are better than your eyes. Get your 6mm template right and everything else will be. Don't be afraid to re-make it if it's not right the first time.

The key to accurate routing imho are the templates. I make an initial template from 6mm MDF and hand sand it to shape, which may be enough if you're doing some edge routing. If I need to plunge into the body, I'll use the thin template to make a thicker one. There are lots of different types of router bits, but the useful ones here are the ones with a bearing fitted to either the top or bottom of the bit, that you use to follow the template. I have had pretty good results with my little De Walt router. Any will do really as long as it has a standard 1/4" collet. A reasonable depth stop is essential for this kind of work and the ability to fit a side fence is handy. Take great care though. Routers can be very dangerous tools. Make sure that your template won't slip (double sided tape). Practice on scrap wood first. Wear eye protection and a dust mask (MDF and lots of types of wood dust is harmful)

I can't really play guitar but am currently building myself a telecaster. This is as an introduction to guitar building preparing for the main event - building basses. It won't stop my enjoyment of my telecaster though as I've hankered after one for a long time despite my obvious lack of talent in that direction

That looks sweet

Looking very good. They would probably use steam to get the dents out, as that causes the wood fibres to swell i.e. drape a damp cloth over the dent and then use a steam iron to gently heat it

Built into Boss GT6B for gigs, little Fender clip-on for home use. Edit: Of course in an emergency there's always the age-old method... ears!

The Stagg is a very cheap introduction to upright playing. I'm very happy with mine although I don't play it nearly as often as I should. If you buy second hand you won't lose out if/when you decide to move it on. It's not quite the same as a real DB but still makes a very passable sound.

It depends what you want to do. You may be better off buying a reasonable quality donor bass as it will probably cost less than the individual components. Then refinish/upgrade as budget and inspiration allow. Or you could go the whole hog and find a guitar building course near you - although that will probably cost you more in the long run (e.g. just the wood for the Telecaster guitar I'm making cost me more than a brand new Squier Affinity Tele!)

I'm not familiar with the interals of Warwick basses, but don't they use a threaded insert? This is like a metal piece inserted into the wood to act as a nut for your adjuster bolt. Perhaps a previous owner has done something to wear the wood away, so the knurled insert no longer grips the wood. You may need to prise the pickup out as best you can, separate the insert from the bolt and then glue it back into place with some epoxy

If you intend to paint it you would need to remove the oil afaik. Touching up an oil-finished bass is relatively easy, but if you want a change of colour that would make it a little more awkward Edit: it sounds a bit to me like you're after a complete strip, dye and lacquer job - and that will need all traces of oil removing

I'm not a huge fan of the usual arm cut through veneer, but I'm looking forward to you extending the cut all round the body. This bass is going to look terrific

I suppose it's what you're used to. I haven't played through anything more than waist high since about 1995. I'm used to gauging it by the trouser flapping

Depending how much material you need to remove, I'd stick to hand tools - probably a file. Power tools can remove a lot of material very quickly, sometimes too quickly.

[quote name='Delberthot' timestamp='1446262115' post='2898217'] I've been toying with the idea of adding the 2x10" cab all year but I've never been in a situation where I thought I would benefit from having it [/quote] Same here. I love the thought of an extension cab, but can't think of any situation where I'd actually *need* one