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Everything posted by Norris
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Intonation - why are strings different lengths
Norris replied to Dropzone's topic in General Discussion
[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1447230287' post='2905877'] [url="http://liutaiomottola.com/formulae/compensation.htm"]http://liutaiomottola.com/formulae/compensation.htm[/url] [/quote] That's the fella - thanks ET -
Intonation - why are strings different lengths
Norris replied to Dropzone's topic in General Discussion
There is a whole pile of complicated maths behind it. I saw a luthier website a couple of weeks ago when I was looking at fret positions for my guitar build. Unfortunately I can't remember the name of the site, but if you search for a bridge compensation calculator you'll probably find it (acoustic guitars have a fixed bridge, so the compensation has to be built in). I'll link it later when I'm on a proper computer -
Also, if you're after a nice smooth curve, sometimes your fingers are better than your eyes. Get your 6mm template right and everything else will be. Don't be afraid to re-make it if it's not right the first time.
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The key to accurate routing imho are the templates. I make an initial template from 6mm MDF and hand sand it to shape, which may be enough if you're doing some edge routing. If I need to plunge into the body, I'll use the thin template to make a thicker one. There are lots of different types of router bits, but the useful ones here are the ones with a bearing fitted to either the top or bottom of the bit, that you use to follow the template. I have had pretty good results with my little De Walt router. Any will do really as long as it has a standard 1/4" collet. A reasonable depth stop is essential for this kind of work and the ability to fit a side fence is handy. Take great care though. Routers can be very dangerous tools. Make sure that your template won't slip (double sided tape). Practice on scrap wood first. Wear eye protection and a dust mask (MDF and lots of types of wood dust is harmful)
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I can't really play guitar but am currently building myself a telecaster. This is as an introduction to guitar building preparing for the main event - building basses. It won't stop my enjoyment of my telecaster though as I've hankered after one for a long time despite my obvious lack of talent in that direction
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That looks sweet
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Looking very good. They would probably use steam to get the dents out, as that causes the wood fibres to swell i.e. drape a damp cloth over the dent and then use a steam iron to gently heat it
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Built into Boss GT6B for gigs, little Fender clip-on for home use. Edit: Of course in an emergency there's always the age-old method... ears!
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The Stagg is a very cheap introduction to upright playing. I'm very happy with mine although I don't play it nearly as often as I should. If you buy second hand you won't lose out if/when you decide to move it on. It's not quite the same as a real DB but still makes a very passable sound.
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It depends what you want to do. You may be better off buying a reasonable quality donor bass as it will probably cost less than the individual components. Then refinish/upgrade as budget and inspiration allow. Or you could go the whole hog and find a guitar building course near you - although that will probably cost you more in the long run (e.g. just the wood for the Telecaster guitar I'm making cost me more than a brand new Squier Affinity Tele!)
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I'm not familiar with the interals of Warwick basses, but don't they use a threaded insert? This is like a metal piece inserted into the wood to act as a nut for your adjuster bolt. Perhaps a previous owner has done something to wear the wood away, so the knurled insert no longer grips the wood. You may need to prise the pickup out as best you can, separate the insert from the bolt and then glue it back into place with some epoxy
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If you intend to paint it you would need to remove the oil afaik. Touching up an oil-finished bass is relatively easy, but if you want a change of colour that would make it a little more awkward Edit: it sounds a bit to me like you're after a complete strip, dye and lacquer job - and that will need all traces of oil removing
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I'm not a huge fan of the usual arm cut through veneer, but I'm looking forward to you extending the cut all round the body. This bass is going to look terrific
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I suppose it's what you're used to. I haven't played through anything more than waist high since about 1995. I'm used to gauging it by the trouser flapping
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Enlarging the truss rod notch in a precison 4ply plate
Norris replied to Twigman's topic in Repairs and Technical
Depending how much material you need to remove, I'd stick to hand tools - probably a file. Power tools can remove a lot of material very quickly, sometimes too quickly. -
[quote name='Delberthot' timestamp='1446262115' post='2898217'] I've been toying with the idea of adding the 2x10" cab all year but I've never been in a situation where I thought I would benefit from having it [/quote] Same here. I love the thought of an extension cab, but can't think of any situation where I'd actually *need* one
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Anyone in a band with NO interpersonal issues???
Norris replied to mingsta's topic in General Discussion
[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1446217813' post='2897853'] Yep, no issues in my band. We`re a 3-piece which cuts down opinions anyway, but in general (all the time in fact) the singer/guitarist sorts everything and the drummer and I agree with it. We have a good laugh but we put the hours in, gig very regularly, make sure we`re always on time for soundchecks, stay to watch the other bands after we`ve played etc. I think age comes into it - we`re all late 40s/early 50s, we`ve had the attitude in our younger years and realised it`s all so much better when that`s dropped, plus as we all drive to gigs we don`t drink much (at all in my case) so there aren`t the follow-ons from someone being drunk and stupid. I also think a willingness to try out the others ideas on your own instrument helps - if someone suggests "try this on bass" I will. Just cos I didn`t think of it doesn`t make it any lesser and it may well improve the song - often does in fact. We have that ethic throughout, all happy to try someone elses ideas. [/quote] Are you me? Exactly this -
I think most BCers have gone for the combo. I'm not aware of anybody running the head
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That's a gorgeous hunk of wood
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Did anyone find a fix for this issue?
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I must admit that I was going to mention his hearing. Maybe the screeching is all he can hear.
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I have the 500 combo. I've heard that they are very good with a 2x10 extension cab. However the combo on its own is plenty for my needs. In fact I used it in preference to the Hartke house rig at our gig on Friday night and got a much better sound from the combo. (LH1000 + 4x10 + 1x15)
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I have the 500 combo. I've heard that they are very good with a 2x10 extension cab. However the combo on its own is plenty for my needs. In fact I used it in preference to the Hartke house rig at our gig on Friday night and got a much better sound from the combo. (LH1000 + 4x10 + 1x15)
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For several years I played in a band where the lead guitarist loved his sound, which the rest of the band referred to as "middly fuzz". Every song, no matter the genre, was given the same indistinct widdling. We did manage to have a rehearsal or two where we got him to play while the rest of us twiddled with the tone controls - and got some lovely sounds. The next gig we'd be straight back to the weedy mess sound. Unfortunately it didn't end well. After several weeks of "haranguing" he quit the band. Some people you can't change