ped
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Everything posted by ped
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Look after her glad you like it and let me know how you get on with it. You’ve got a very special bass there 👍🏼 -
Thanks, it really is - I would never have sold it except for this one bass (how many times have we all said that!)
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On hold - potentially sold within hours! Cheers
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Hi guys I have seen another Smith that I really must have (4 string) so I need to sell this amazing bass. Everything about it is perfect; it has the exact ‘Smith Sound’ and is in superb condition. Its a BT5 model form 1991. It has a volume with pull passive mode which works without a battery, then a pickup pan knob followed by a stacked bass and treble. Most people say this is the classic Smith pre. The front and back is figured Koa (FK in serial number). Then there’s a maple layer with a mahogany centre. Theneck is graphite reinforced, maple and morado five piece. The setup is flat and low - making it effortless to play. The whole bass is so thin and resonant - slap an E on this and your whole body shakes. It comes with the original (again, sought after) teardrop hard case and leather strap. Currently strung with Elixir .040s. Weight is 4.4kg Collection from/near York strongly preferred although I’m happy to meet halfway to basically anywhere to ensure safe and happy receipt of bass. Some pics - can take more in request! Cheers ped
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Here you go mate let me know if I can help with any questions https://www.basschat.co.uk/faq/ ped
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Hopefully a dodgy set then. I’ve found a few people saying they’ve had rusty ones on google but will be interested to hear what EB say. I bought mine on eBay from a shop so not sure who should be compensating
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Hi folks I fitted some EB Cobalt flats in March. I really like them and have played them a fair bit at home. However I noticed yesterday that they have rusted quite badly (and quickly) around the 20th fret and the playing area over the pickups. Is that normal for these strings? I hope not as I really like them - I’ve contacted Ernie Ball so will let you know what they say. Maybe I got a dud set? Anyway I've ordered some Labella super light flats to try as for some reason I’ve never given them a go.
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Well I don't want to speak for Jason but I know their strings are made on the same machines which were hand made by his father so I guess there's no sense in changing them - presumably other manufacturers started by copying Rotosound and did things in the same way.
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Just asked Jason How at Rotosound: So there you have it!
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Every day I’m more convinced Mick is employed by eBay
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Mexican Fender Jazz leftie - £72 currently
ped replied to TheGreek's topic in eBay - Weird and Wonderful
Now is that ‘weird or wonderful’ 🤔 -
I THINK it’s because the new update lets you post as a guest but the content only appears if the guest responds to the next prompt to join as a member. It looks like it’s sending out a notification before the post is approved, which is a bit silly. Reckon that’s right, but will check. There’s another update due and I think I remember reading something about this issue being changed.
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You might have more luck messaging the person in question directly, just a thought
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You should find that as you get smoother you can lower your action right down. The slap should have very little force behind it, you merely bounce off the string. Try sitting in front of the TV slapping a fretted note until it feels smooth and fluid. Another thing is timing - and the use of dead notes in between slaps and pops for the percussive rhythm.
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Don’t worry about always popping after slapping. Develop the slap first if you like. I too found it misleading when all the books seem to suggest every slap should be followed by a pop. Personally I find them two completely different techniques which can be blended but not always together.
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There should be a ‘Bump’ button on the topic near the top. We recently enabled it in that forum. It may not have affected posts over a certain age though so feel free to post the ad again this time. Cheers
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I think it was a joke, just incase China were sending a John Hall faker to fool us all
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I think conductive paint is best for the body then use foil on the back of the scratch plate
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No, it’s always on - ‘lean on it’ means play hard so the limiter kicks in, giving a nice clank. The threshold is quite high so it cuts in just where I want it to. Even then, you can’t ‘hear’ it as such, you just don’t hear a woolly distorted mess.
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Did I miss your NBD thread @Al Krow?
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Congrats that looks lovely enjoy it 👍🏼
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- zoot
- funkmeister
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It can’t - but if you know where it kicks in you can ‘lean’ on it if you so choose.
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Yeah I used to, but now I use a model of it (well, I think it's the LMB3, It's on my Roland VB99 and they call it 'Limiter' so probably is). Yes i set the threshold quite high then have the ration 1:infinity. You get a lot more besides that on the unit too, so I adjust the ratio, attack etc for each instrument I have. All the different comps in it sound different but if I set them up the same as the LMB they do the same job because they all have an adjustable ratio up to infinity. On some basses I set the ratio a bit lower, because the bass in question sounds quite even and compressed anyway so there's no need for such a hard 'shelf' however on for example a P with flats I like the limiter keeping me in lane so to speak and giving me that solid fundamental cutoff before you enter muddy 'woof' territory
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I don’t use one either, but I do use a limiter, very sparingly, to give me a clear ‘bass line’ which I can lean on when digging in.
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Something I love about Smiths which you don’t really notice until you pick one up is how thin the bodies are. And with such a smooth neck transition the whole bass just feels so refined.
