Painy

[quote name='bassman7755' timestamp='1444131850' post='2880502'] Your 4 ohm 2x10 is always going to be a right pain in any modular setup, and you probably are better off with twin identical cabs, so all this is adding up to binning off your existing stuff ... What exactly are your existing cabs ? - are they worth anything 2nd hand ?, if you could get enough from selling both cabs for even one of the 2x10 rumbles then you'l still have a good £700 left over from buying the second rumble cab to buy the amp with. [/quote] The impedance is definitely a nuisance already. The backup behringer gear I mentioned in my OP is actually 2 heads having to run a cab each because of it so not ideal at all! The 15 is an SVT15E Classic so probably around £150-£200 at a guess but it was a gift from my mum when she was alive. The 2x10 I've no idea as it was an Ampeg BA500 combo but the section which housed the amp has been cut off and then re-tolexed as the whole thing together was a back breaking 95lbs. As it is I may have found a used TH500 in budget

[quote name='Delberthot' timestamp='1444085932' post='2880243'] How about a Fender Rumble 500 combo and matching 2x10"? My previous rig was a Hartke LH1000 and Laney 4x10" & 1x15" cabs and I prefer what I have now in terms of volume, weight and sound [/quote] It would be cheaper this way than buying the head seperately but I can't get on with control panels you look down on when it's stacked (fussy I know) but having played through the rumble combo whilst demoing some basses in the past, the head is definitely on my radar.

[quote name='bassman7755' timestamp='1444109530' post='2880274'] With 2 8 ohm drivers the series wiring will be 16 ohm. Its not possible to wire 2 8ohm drivers for 8ohm total. [/quote] How do I get a facepalm smiley? Would you believe physics was one of my A levels?!? I think I've fried my brain trying to overthink this whole thing now! I think the only actual option of disconnecting one of the speakers to leave an 8ohm 1x10 in a great big box is clearly not really worthwhile either. Oh well, shiny new cabs. Mmmmm.....

I'm hugely jealous! I've owned basses costing up to and well over £4000 in my time but when I tried one of these a while ago everything about it just felt right to me in a way I've never experienced with another bass regardless of price. Couldn't believe I was playing a sub £300 bass! Fortunately my lovely wife has promised to get me one for Christmas Congrats!

[quote name='skej21' timestamp='1444044504' post='2879675'] Just trying to be helpful by linking it, as it does exist in the U.S. standard range and as a burst/maple with white scratchplate (which is easily changed!) in the Mexican standard range too. Thought it'd be worth helping if Painy was trying to find one :-) [/quote] My (possibly poorly worded) post was indeed referencing the OPs initial reason for looking elsewhere than Fender for this colour combo. Thanks for the info of course though but personally I'm strictly a 5 stringer anyway which Fender definitely don't offer as a sunburst/maple option for a P. Fortunately for me though, Squier do offer the VM P5 in it and that's why it's my next planned purchase

You can indeed but I believe the master volume on the amp is then still active so in that instance, rather than controlling your volume on the VT Bass pedal you'd set the volume on the pedal for unity gain and control the output volume using the amp's master volume as normal. Could also be quite a useful option when connecting amps together if you wanted to be able to control the relative volumes independently.

Basically the reason for my using 2 of these is that one of my cabs is 4ohms and the other is 8ohms. My Ampeg will run down to 2ohms so not a problem there but these only go down to 4ohms. This means that one amp is driving the 4 ohm cab at full tilt while the other is just driving the 8ohm cab separately. By using the preamp out socket the preamp on the first amp stays connected to its own power section but by going from there into the second amp's poweramp in socket it bypasses that amps pre, connecting straight into the power amp thus allowing one preamp to control both power amps simultaneously. Basically, if you were in an 80s hair metal band and needed to run 6 fridges each powered by an SVT for a stadium gig then this is how you'd connect them all together. I'm also in the process of experimenting with my VT Bass pedal acting as the sole preamp for both amps by going through a splitter box then connecting straight into the power amp inputs on both - bypassing the behringer preamps altogether. All good fun

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1444070550' post='2880078'] You could get a splitter cable/box that will enable you to connect your two 4ohm cabs up to the amp. Our very own OBBM can make one of these up. [/quote] Funnily enough I was thinking about ways to modify the existing cabs (it's actually only the 2x10 that's 4ohms - the 15 is 8ohms so a rather annoying 2.67ohms total). I was actually wondering about the possibility of making the 2 10" speakers switchable between series and parallel to choose between 4 and 8 ohms (drivers are 8ohms each). Would then draw the power equally into both cabs when used together or still allow the full power to be drawn from the amp if the 2x10 were used alone. The only hurdle to this plan though is that I think I may now just be gassing for some shiny new cabs

[quote name='Thunderpaws' timestamp='1444067751' post='2880039'] Does the new Subway go down to 2 ohm? [/quote] Having checked it seems out does! Anyone know what kind of price tag these will be carrying when they're released?

Should also add to my previous post that because my 210 cab is 4ohm this really limits the choice of amps that will run both this and the 15 cab together so given that most, if not all, class-d heads will only go down to 4 ohms total then this route would necessitate new cabs to go with the head. As my personal preference is for 10s I really fancy a pair of vertically stacked 210 cabs but my budget would obviously have to cover both. If I go with the rumble cabs this pretty much leaves these options as far as I can make out price wise: PF800 Little Mark III Rumble 500 MB500 BH550 VT Bass 500 As much as the TH500 does sound lovely it's a touch out of budget with the cost of the cabs too. The flip side of course would be keeping my existing cabs and going all out with an SVT CL which would run them okay and more importantly would - for me at least - unquestionably be the ultimate amp for tone, but could eventually leave me having to carry my small intestine around in a bucket. Decisions, decisions!

So I've had a few amplifier issues recently (my Ampeg head is currently awaiting repair and my backup Behringer gear is getting me by for now but it's obviously not the same). Now my good lady wife has some inheritance money coming soon and has kindly given me a budget of £1000 to get my amp situation sorted on the proviso that I get it sorted 'properly'. The question is now how to invest it wisely. Basically I've considered going two ways - lightweight or even heavier weight. The heavyweight option is a used big all valve head (probably an SVT CL) to use with my existing cabs. The lightweight option is to replace the lot and go for a class d head and new cabs. At the moment I'm thinking a pair of Fender Rumble V3 2x10 cabs which would leave me around £400 for the amp. Now I'm a big lover of the Ampeg sound so the PF800 is pretty high on my list but as I have a VT Bass pedal to help get that sound anyway I'd still consider other class d options. Sooooooooo... Any suggestions or thoughts as to which way I should go or any other ideas as to what I should consider?

I had this feeling once - at a guess it would probably have been about 17 years ago - when I first saw dood play at the Brickmakers in Norwich. Of course I've improved a lot myself since then... Unfortunately though, the last time I saw him play a couple of years ago he was still much better than me! In truth though we're all at different stages in our journey as musicians. I'll dare say that at some point in your career there will have been a bass player stood out in the crowd feeling inadequate next to your own playing

Strange that Fender don't offer burst/tort/maple as a standard option despite the fact that it is clearly the correct colour combo for a p bass. Absolute stunner by the way - congrats!

Personally I really liked the way that he managed to avoid choosing any notes whatsoever that fit in with the song in any way shape or form whilst simultaneously keeping each and every note played completely out of time as well. As if that wasn't enough he then managed to maintain all that whilst playing whole sections where his left hand and right hand weren't even sycronised with each other. Surely it takes some special kind of talent to play soooo many notes and to still not to play a single right one even by mistake! Quite simply... Genius!

I've only recently started using compression myself and whilst I got some great advice from here, the best advice I got was actually, as elephantgrey suggests, to check out the ovnilab website. Really clear info on what compressors do and how they work, advice on how to set them up depending on what you're looking to achieve and detailed reviews on just about every compressor going.

My Cort A6 was a great bit of kit. Easiest bass I've ever had to get really low action on with no fret buzz. Really well built, good quality Hipshot licensed hardware and Bartolini electronics (albeit the less expensive Mk1 pups and pre but still pretty good) what's not to like?

[quote name='GisserD' timestamp='1443779645' post='2877580'] Is the Cort A5 known o have hot pickups? [/quote] Not sure of the pickups specifically but the pre-amp in my old A6 had an awful lot of boost (and cut) available. Have you tried it in passive mode?

A bass overdrive with a blend control which allows you to mix your clean sound back in with the overdrive sound is the way to go as it lets you keep the low end intact. Check out the EHX Bass Soul Food -fantastic warm sounding drive and inexpensive. Love mine to bits and couldn't recommend it more !

I got rid of most of the unwanted noise from my drive pedals by switching to an isolated power supply but I also use a noise gate to clean things up a bit too.

Well it does at least make use of all that empty space. The front is unchanged - apart from my homemade Ampeg Badge - so the bottom amp is being used purely as a slave power amp (preamp-out on the top connected into the poweramp-in on the bottom) so I don't need access to the controls on the bottom amp as the top one controls both anyway.

That's great thanks.

Heavy? Well I have 2 of these heads (I have 2 due to the impedance of my cabs) which have been relegated to the roll of a backup now that my Ampeg is back up and running. However, I have now used one of the boxes to re-house my Ampeg and have therefore created this monster. Heavy? Just a tad!

I should hopefully be receiving a small windfall shortly before Christmas and am considering getting an all valve head - most likely a used SVT-CL. My budget however won't stretch to new cabs too and I'm wondering how compatible my existing cabs would be as 1 is 4ohm and the other 8ohm (2.67ohm total I believe). Would the amp run safely with this load if it was set to 2ohm?

The Who - I'm One.