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Everything posted by Higgie
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[quote name='Higgie']Ok, just a feeler as I'm not sure I want to get rid of it. It's a Lakland Skyline DJ4 in white pearl, with Tort scratchplate (I have the original white one too). It's got Aero Pickups, and J-Retro pre-amp. Also has a Hipshot Detuner installed (I've got the original tuning key but I'd prefer to keep it for a project bass, although if you wanted it I would keep the Detuner instead). It'll also come in a Stagg Hardcase. The only damage is (what seems to be common place with these basses) is the ding at the end of the headstock. Not sure what I'd be after, but as a rough guide OBBM's DJ4 is up for £750 and the only thing differing between them is that his is Lake Placid Blue and mine is White Trade wise I'd be after another Jazz bass. Anything considered, but Sadowsky (with cash from me) would take highest preference.[/quote] Ok definitely up for sale now. £SOLD Can be seen on the far right here: (Please note it doesn't have the FretFX LEDs on it - They were removed before I bought it)
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I meant the Drive knob.
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Sorry, I forgot the levels were controlled for Clean and Fuzz. You just have to work with all 3 knobs (clean level/fuzz level/gain) to get the amount of Fuzz and volume you want. Ie Turn the blends up to account for more gain, and keep the gain lower than you would want to keep the volume down - Does that make sense?
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There's an output level knob on the Brown Dog...Should be all you need.
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Couldn't you connect them like normal (brown dog output to 00funk input) and then connect them via the envelope jacks? That way when the fuzz is off your clean bass is still going to the input of the pedal, but when you turn the fuzz on it's connected via envelope in?
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I had this on my Lakland DJ4. I changed strings and the problem went away I thought it was something to do with the string being loose in the nut, but I changed down to a thinner guage and didn't have any more problems so it can't have been that. Not sure what the problem was in the end, but all I know is changing strings got rid of it for me
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I use 2 of these units to power my original Mutron III from a 9V output I'm not sure about using one with multiple pedals, surely you'd have to daisy chain off the virtual battery, therefore eliminating the isolation you needed it for in the first place? I know you can combine 2 virtual batteries to get 18V, but I'm not sure about using multiple pedals off of one unit.
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I'm sure we could arrange come kind of trade for my [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=47134"]Barge Unit[/url]. The impedance control on each loop means you can make your active basses work with any fuzz, and blend your clean signal while you do it. There is 2 blend settings for each loop (selected by an A/B footswitch), and 2 of these loops (with seperate ins and outs, meaning you could run seperate basses through different pedals to different amps, or sending the same bass through 2 pedalboards with different blend settings to one amp (what I used it for!)). The possibilities are endless!!
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I own a Demeter Compulator, and I've never felt the need to use it live. I agree with you, for live music, compression isn't the best thing. Playing dynamics will trump it any time IMO. I've toyed with the idea of selling the Compulator, but I think it'll be useful for recording, so I'm gonna keep it around. If you have more than one compressor, I think you should sell all but which you think is best. It'll free up some extra cash, and you'll still have your favourite compressor on hand if you need it. Just my 2 pennys worth. Good luck!
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[quote name='1976fenderhead' post='495258' date='May 22 2009, 03:27 PM']Hey why don't you get one of those virtual batteries for the Compulator (I think it would work) and the Diago 9v-18v converter cable for the Blowtorch? I've been using one of those for my MXR Stereo Chorus for a long time and never gave me any problems...[/quote] That's what I was gonna suggest. Should work fine.
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The virtual batteries from the GigRig really are worthwhile! You can use them with any pedal that needs an isolated output on a daisy chain. Really useful IMO.
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The Dunlop brick doesn't have Isolated outputs though, so changing the polarity on one shorts out the rest of the outputs. It can only run all outputs on one polarity or the other.
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[quote name='megazap63' post='488891' date='May 15 2009, 01:59 PM']Hi, since you're sending out details ......suspect my Mu-tron may be in need of a once-over. Cheers[/quote] Is it an original? If so, Dan at the [url="http://www.thegigrig.com"]GigRig[/url] is awesome. He sorted out mine to run on 9VDC using the "Virtual Battery".
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[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='487778' date='May 14 2009, 12:30 PM']I kinda need to send mine back too, it's just getting around to it. I've recently discovered the Low-Pass and High-Pass filters put the effected signal out of phase, meaning the Blend knob becomes basically useless... I'm waiting to get my Squeezer back from Chunk in Oz before I go mailing off my other "main" filter though.[/quote] Get an Xotic XBlender, it's got a phase correction switch. It's allowed me to use my Mutron III blended.
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