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Everything posted by martthebass
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I've started a new for sale thread on this as the last was a bit confusing (started/shelved/restarted). I've had this bass about 6 months, in that time its been out of the house three times, once for a rehearsal, once for a jam night and once for a setup/fretboard-fettle (it had some very very mild roundwound marks when I got it and I'm anal about fretless boards - I like em micron tolerance level!) trip to Jon Shukers place. I find it nice to play in the house but once on stage I find the extra string just serves to confuse me and as I dont like to have basses lying around the house doing nothing this has to go and the price I've offered it at reflects that. The bass is a 1998 model and is in excellent condition it all its trans-red goodness. There are no scratches or dings that I can find other than very mild swirlies (no belt marks on this one!) The board is clean and will take a nice low action. So....£600 for a 9.5/10 Ray5 fretless in it's original Musicman HSC, add £25 for postage if you cant collect. This is the last price the previous thread had........it wont be going any lower than this. Alternatively I'll consider a trade with a nice 4 string fretless, preferably something Fender/MM/Lakky/Sandberg shaped (in other words P or J!). So some piccies: (taken on a great camera by a poor photographer)
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Hmmmmm, If it's a case of wanting that P bass passive warmth with a J neck then I guess I'd take a look at Lakland Duck Dunn. What amp/cab setup are you using, I can usually get something nice an punchy without spitting treble on my 2 3eq Rays through my MarkBass gear.
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[quote name='tarcher' post='1140143' date='Feb 24 2011, 04:46 PM']Ta for that. Requested that info ages ago as mine came without the saddle key.[/quote] +1
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I've struggled along for a couple weeks without doing a saddle adjustment - I've done about as much as I can do with the rod now tho and need to fettle it a the bridge end. Could someone let me know the key size - none of mine fit and unfortunately Sue didn't think to include one in my pack, Cheers, Mart
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Fender 2009 US Std Jazz in 3csb, R'wood and T'shell
martthebass replied to alhbass's topic in Basses For Sale
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[quote name='lettsguitars' post='1139176' date='Feb 23 2011, 09:09 PM']warwick have similar neck thickness. check out their web site for neck dimensions. quite interesting if you're as sad as me. although i have heard someone complain about warwicks diving.[/quote] Had 2 Warwicks, both bolt ons and modern ovankol/wenge necks - a thumb 4 and a ash corvette 4. Wouldn't say they neck dove as such but they definitely hung horizontal as a preference.
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[quote name='Ian2k' post='1139175' date='Feb 23 2011, 09:06 PM']The Status is headless I belive? What's the thickness of the neck like - I don't know how to technically describe it, but what I'm used to and like with the RBX is the neck thinness, so for example at fret 1, from fretboard to the back of the neck is around 2cm.[/quote] The streamline is headless yes. Neck profile....feels similar to a modern USA precision to me, quite slim front to back but the wider fretboard width of about 1.6" compared to 1.5" on a Jazz. I find it very playable and I almost exclusively played a Jazz for years.
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[quote name='lettsguitars' post='1139128' date='Feb 23 2011, 08:40 PM']i repeat. the weight of the body is less effective than the actual design of the bass. i have a 5lb bass that balances perfectly. only 32" but 26 frets so not a short neck. the centre of gravity is the be all and end all. also helps if the right hand button isn't in the centre of the bass but slightly higher.[/quote] Not necessarily disagreeing with you but I once owned a Stingray on the lighter side of typical (about 8.5lbs) and that didn't balance as well as my current Ray4. As far as could tell the pin positions were exactly the same. Obviously the neck length, and body weight have some effect on the cog. On your 5lb special I guess you're using lightweight neck wood and tuners to ensure good balance?
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Like you I don't have a great deal of love for basses with neck dive. At the minute the 2 Rays I have certainly aren't lightweights, the 4 stringer is about 9.5lb and the 5 a bit over 10, however the weight is in the body on both so they balance well. Due to this both are tolerable on gigs even tho I'm a lightweight mid 5 footer. I've had a couple of lightweight basses (7lb ish) an Overwater Perception and an Epi EBO. Due to the small light bodies on both they both suffered with neck dive and both ended up going. The only lightweight bass I've owned (and still own) that doesn't suffer from neck dive is my Status. Because of this it gets all the longer set gigs.
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For sale or trade - STINGRAY 5 FRETLESS
martthebass replied to martthebass's topic in Basses For Sale
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For sale or trade - STINGRAY 5 FRETLESS
martthebass replied to martthebass's topic in Basses For Sale
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For sale or trade - STINGRAY 5 FRETLESS
martthebass replied to martthebass's topic in Basses For Sale
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For sale or trade - STINGRAY 5 FRETLESS
martthebass replied to martthebass's topic in Basses For Sale
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For sale or trade - STINGRAY 5 FRETLESS
martthebass replied to martthebass's topic in Basses For Sale
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For sale or trade - STINGRAY 5 FRETLESS
martthebass replied to martthebass's topic in Basses For Sale
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JT.....Dont get so excited..... It's not a Status but it does the job, It's acceptable for Jamnights and rough gigs. Is it worth £60..........IMHO, yes. Now........take a deep breath and give it up. You are achieving precisely nothing and expanding energy in order to do so. Just my 2p.
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For sale or trade - STINGRAY 5 FRETLESS
martthebass replied to martthebass's topic in Basses For Sale
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[quote name='icastle' post='1128603' date='Feb 15 2011, 05:14 PM']Yep. We do JJF as well - or rather the rest of the guys do. I've been playing something totally different for the last 4 years and they haven't noticed... [/quote] Think I play something different every time I 'have' to play JJF
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Anyone tried a EB MM stingray HH with a maple neck?
martthebass replied to Jimelliottbassist's topic in Bass Guitars
Jim, I don't think there's that much difference in sound between maple and rw boards (ducks for cover), had both and in a dark room I'm buggered if I'd hear it. However I can understand personal preference, with me I prefer rw on a Ray because the oiled board on a modern EBMM can get caked up and takes some care. Now the finished ebmms of the 80s and early 90s I think are better as are pre ebs