Thornybank

[quote name='Sunburst79' post='1193484' date='Apr 9 2011, 03:54 AM']Hello. First post. I have a working 1996 Rumble Bass Stack (head and 2 410 HF cabs). I had a bit of an issue with crackling and the volume going up and down. Checked the tubes which were original and fine. Reseated the multi pin amp to chassis connector a few times. The Amp worked for about a day and then the noises came back. I decided that the next logical step before taking it to the shop was to clean and lube the pots - although none of the pots were actually scratchy. Which I did. I also tapped and probed all of the caps and resisters with the unit while running and none of them were particularly microphonic or intermittent. These units seemed to be designed to be field serviced and for whatever reason Fender used 148 "Fast-On" Connectors! (Spade terminal connectors) to connect various sub assembly's to the main circuit board. While the unit was apart I made point of going through and rocking each connector to ensure it was making good contact. A bad connection here is going to act exactly like a cold solder joint. Its worth taking your amp apart and checking these connectors. My amp has been flawless since July of 2010 After doing this. Normal precautions about working on high power amps apply. It worked for me and hopefully helps someone. I've never played through a vintage Blue Line SVT but this thing has noticeably better tone then my mid nineties SVT CL 810HE.[/quote] Nice to see another. I have the same tan/oxblood with one HF and one LF 410.

My tech sorted my Rumble. Some obvious ''need' tweaks in the design. Packing and courier cost figures, but he is tippie top and only charges for true work time.

Frowm SWR website Q: I'm moving to a different country. How do I change the voltage of my amplifier so that it's compatible? A: If you plan to use an SWR amplifier that was purchased in North America in a country outside of North America, it will be necessary to change the unit's voltage so that it's compatible with the foreign country's electrical system (as with any electronic product you intend to use overseas). SWR amplifiers purchased in North America are designed to run on 120 volts; foreign current is generally 220 volts. If you want the voltage of your amplifier changed permanently (for a relocation or long-term move), we recommend that you have a replacement power transformer installed in the unit's chassis. This modification can be made by any qualified Authorized FMIC Service Center. If you would like to permanently convert the voltage of your amplifier by replacing the internal power transformer, click here to locate an Authorized FMIC Service center near you. [size=5][b] Please note: SWR Professional Series models built before March 1999, feature multi-tap transformers and can be wired for 110v, 120v, 220v or 240v. A schematic for this purpose may be ordered from SWR by calling 480-596-7195.[/b][/size] Q: I do a lot of touring and am back and forth between countries with different voltage requirements. What should I do? A: As with any electronic product that you intend to use overseas, if you plan to use an SWR amplifier that was purchased in North America in a country outside of North America, it will be necessary to change the unit's voltage so that it's compatible with the foreign country's electrical system. SWR amplifiers purchased in North America are designed to be run on 120 volts; foreign current is generally 220 volts. If it will be a temporary situation (such as a tour) for which you require the amplifier to run on a voltage other than 120 volts for a short period of time, we recommend the use of an external voltage converter (or step up/down transformer). Voltage converters are available from your local or online electronics retailer and are offered in various wattage capacities, generally ranging from 100 to 10,000 watts. It is important that the capacity of the voltage converter be equal to or greater than the current draw of the amplifier (see requirements below). On SWR amplifiers, the current-draw specification is generally listed below the AC cord receptacle on the amplifier's rear panel. Depending on the model, it may also be necessary to change the amplifier's line fuse. Please consult your amplifier's owner's manual for the correct fuse rating. SWR models that require a voltage converter of 1,500 watts or greater: SM-1500™ (1,400 watts), WorkingPro™ 700 (1,440 watts), Mo' Bass® (1,200 watts), 750X™ (1,200 watts), Bass 750™(1,200 watts), Power 750™ (1,200 watts) SWR models that require a voltage converter of 1,000 watts or greater: 350X™ (840 watts), 550X™ (960 watts), SM-500™ (840 watts), SM-900™ (960 watts), Bass 350™ (840 watts), Stereo 800™ (960 watts), Black Beauty™ (840 watts), Redhead™ (840 watts), Silverado™ (840 watts), Silverado™ II (840 watts), Silverado Special™ (840 watts), Super Redhead™ (840 watts), WorkingPro™ 400 (840 watts), Natural Blonde™ (650 watts), WorkingPro 2X10C (840 watts), WorkingPro 15 (650 watts), WorkingPro 12 (650 watts), Workingman's® 4004 (840 watts), Workingman's 8004 (960 watts), Workingman's 2X10C (840 watts) SWR models that require a voltage converter of 500 watts or greater: Baby Blue Head™ (360 watts), Baby Baby Blue™ (360 watts), Baby Blue II Combo™ (360 watts), Basic Black™ (360 watts), WorkingPro™ 10 (330 watts), Workingman's® 2004 (360 watts), Workingman's 12 (360 watts), Workingman's 15 (360 watts), California Blonde II™ (360 watts), California Blonde™ (360 watts), LA 12™ (360 watts), LA 15™ (360 watts) SWR models that require a voltage converter of 300 watts or greater: Workingman's® 10 (240 watts), Strawberry Blonde II™ (230 watts), Strawberry Blonde™ (240 watts) SWR models that require a voltage converter of 200 watts or greater: Blonde On Blonde™ (180 watts), LA 8™ (180 watts) SWR models that require a voltage converter of 100 watts or greater: Interstellar Overdrive™ (33 watts), Mini Mo' Preamp™ (60 watts), Mr. Tone Controls (60 watts)