Twincam

Is the cavity shielded in any form? If so this also needs to be grounded. Else you can act like an antenna. So ground wire from cavity to where the bridge wire connects. As demonstrated recently after I fitted a pre amp to a basschat members bass. Loud buzz even when bridge was grounded. So extra ground from cavity fitted.

Slight update. As well as setups, fret work and refrets, some electrical work, cosmetic damage. I now can do solid colour refinishing, some metallic and candy colours. Neck refinishing. Also snapped neck repairs. Mobile setups and minor fret work NE England. Will be hoping soon to learn routing work, modifications.

Correct setup sequence is nut height, neck relief. Then string height via the saddle, if the saddle is at its minimum and still the string height is too high only then should the neck tilt adjust be used (or a shim added on non tilt adjust instruments). After all this then intonation adjusted. Adding neck tilt should be kept at the minimum required for correct saddle adjustment. Too much tilt and the string to fretboard angle changes to much in relation to each other and it becomes harder to get a low action.

Push down on the string behind the nut, while doing so play the open string in question, if the noise stops it's the nut slot cut too wide for the gauge. Or the break angle from nut to tuning peg isn't enough, this sounds possible since you have changed the bridge. Fix is to have more string raps around the tuning peg.

You can hardly get a pbass tone wrong. It has one position of pu, and 2 controls. It's hard to mess up. An active bass with 2 or more pickups, multi coil taps, multi eq. Is naturally, but not always going to be that bit more of an unknown quantity and have a wider range of tone which isn't a bad thing at all.

Indeed. But most people including me have said they have heard no difference in the different ways to string up. But now I have.

Well for the first time there's been a difference in stringing through the body vs the bridge. I was surprised. Got some eb cobalt flats the other day. Today was the first time I've had a good play on them. Couldn't get a good string balance in volume/tone. No matter what I did with the pickups, setup etc. The E especially and the A was louder and the e was weirdly over bassy, if you can have such a thing haha. This is on a Ibanez atk 400. So thought I would try stringing through the body. Got as far as the e and a and the volume balance is good and the tone is more even. The bass is now more equal. There is a clear difference. There has been no difference in sustain at all. Going to leave the other strings, I like the balance now. Im wondering if it's due to the eb cobalt strings or the atk bridge as stringing through bridge is not actually through the bridge it's more ball slotted into the bass bridge plate. Anyhow it's the first time ever I've heard a difference at all. On another note I'm not sure I do like the cobalt flats now, but at 45 odd pound there staying on! Maybe they will improve.

Well I finally got some eb cobalt flats myself. Only a few years since I said I was going to haha. What a pain fitting the e string. Silk was too thick at the ball end for fitting, either in the bridge or through body (Atk 400). So had to adjust the silk. The other strings were fine. Lots of creaking going on while initially tuning up, more than any other string I've heard by far. Didn't get much time to play them but first impressions are good. Nice and bright, good feel. I like that there slightly grippy, a bit like half rounds. Good output in volume. Tone wise I suppose there a bit like a slightly played in roundwound. Be interesting to see how they develop. Hopefully they will last a good while. The Fender flats I like, I only get 2 months maybe 3, out of them before I feel they start to decline too much for my liking.

I know what you mean about the losing confidence thing. But I really think that repair might actually come out stronger than before. And it's such a nice instrument. But if you do move it on, then it's understandable. On another note I know people are busy with other things, Jon will have a lot on I'm sure. But it shouldn't take months to get a repair done. Im not having a go at anyone btw. Hopefully it will be back with you soon.

Are we talking about the modern ones? I had one of these. I'm pretty sure it's a modern truss rod dual action, allen key. I would of remembered a nut on the end.

It will start to tension the other way (forward bow), Useful for low tension strings sometimes.

Are you turning it with the strings on? Might help to loosen the strings a touch. Also are you actually checking the relief properly. Not just eyeballing it. No harm in turning the rod the other way, just to see what happens.

I will give those a read. But my thoughts are, the higher or lower the saddle the break point angle changes and the tension of the string at a given point is shifted back and forth somewhat.

As a previous poster said a better setup lowers string tension. I'm not sure of all the science behind it. When fretting your not stretching the string down as much. And I have a theory that the higher or lower the saddle height moves the tension break point very slightly. And normally shop instruments are setup terrible! Pet hate of mine.

Typically ive just sold something on eBay, that I probably would of got slightly more on here for! Funny how I even said it's worth advertising on here too, then fail to do so haha!

Be easier to spray in contact cleaner and turn the controls back and forth a good few times, repeating as necessary. Much cheaper and easier than replacing the pots. There's plenty of online diagrams though if you want to replace the pots anyhow.

10% eBay fees and I think it's a 3.something% PayPal fee. However many sell when there a £1 max fee on eBay which are fairly regular. As long as your willing to post, on eBay you will get a quicker sale and more money or at least enough to cover fees. This i feel is just because more people use eBay rather than anything wrong with the bc forum. Of course you make your chances of a sale better if advertising on both.

There is also the fact that most bass players are not on basschat. In the last 6 years of talking to other bass players at gigs etc, excluding people I've met on here. Only a few had even heard of basschat and only 1 other was a member. And that 1 member im pretty sure (I was drunk) I told him he should consider joining basschat a couple of years beforehand haha. I've known/met many more guitarists and not any of them are members of a guitar forum.

What a fantastic looking instrument! Looking at the break once it's repaired I don't think it will give any problems, looks clean and lots of surface area. So don't be afraid of it going once repaired, although nothing is 100%. As others have said it's likely to be stronger after the repair. As for why it happened, it's hard to tell. Did the truss rod bend first and crack the wood or did the wood crack and truss rod bend after. Hopefully soon the bass will be back with you.

That all seems like an appropriate service. It's worth remembering that valves can fail anytime, even new. And if old valves were in when a bias was done it could of pushed one over the edge I suppose. As others said it could be a dirty socket, I don't see the mention of cleaning the sockets being done. So hopefully it will just be that.

Not exactly it is a wave form/vibration. Sound travels through air but it's not air itself. That's also why you can hear under water. Or why you can hear sounds, in say a block of wood being tapped with your ear held against it. Click your finger close to your face, you won't feel that much air from it. Then blow on your hand. Which is louder and which do you feel more? The sound of a port is not air rushing in and out. Just like the drivers themselves don't blow out air.

I think this on the barefaced site explains it nicely. https://barefacedbass.com/technical-information/the-mysteries-of-ports.htm What you might feel from a cab is soundwave presure but not air rushing in or out of a port.

It's more like a passive eq. Cut only, bass and treble. They did it on the ebmm USA passive subs and supposedly they sound pretty good.