absolutpepper

That looks like a Stoner Rock monster. Always fancied an Acoustic Control Corp amp.

Oooh If you want to nail the sound exactly be prepared to spend A LOT on effects, loopers to split the signals and probably 3 amps (nevermind the basses). If you are looking for more of an approximation go with - Jazz Bass 2 Big Muffs - 1 Russian (for a more intense Fuzz) and 1 Bass Big Muff (for a more blended sound) 1 Digitech Bass Synth Wah 1 Korg G-5 if you can find one (instead of the crazily overpriced Deep Impact) 1 EH Small Clone Chorus & if budget were to allow an EH Small Stone Phaser Thats what i'd do. His core sounds are a mix of heavy and blended fuzzes and more synthesized tones. A multi will only get you so far... Also its also a common misconception that the Time Is Running Out tone comes from the Deep Impact, it is actually blended clean and fuzz tones (from Russian Big Muff) underneath a Roland synth (cant remember which at the mo).

[quote name='TommyK' post='955291' date='Sep 13 2010, 07:55 PM']Has anyone tried a Ray35 against a genuine Stingray5? Any opinions/comments? +Whos got a Ray35 and what do you make of it? Cheers. [/quote] Surprised this has been dragged up from the dust of the past haha. I still have my Ray 35 and its still great. As per my previous comments they'll give you an answer as to my opinion of it having played an SR5.

I just want one of those control plates with the concentric knobs for my fretless Jazz. That'd be awesome.

You'd be better picking up a slimmer neck 5 string. You certainly risk making the bass completely unusable. Its certainly not a mod i'd be advising any time soon.

[quote name='lanark' post='940973' date='Aug 31 2010, 02:07 PM']Mormusic in York have just quoted me £299 including a full setup, for the CV, with a two week delivery time. I'm trying to get a good deal on a set of flats (as GAK are still quoting £260 inc delivery), because I'd really want to support such a great shop, but that £40 difference is a lot.[/quote] Yeah seems a little pricey. Do they not do a price match?

[quote name='lanark' post='940923' date='Aug 31 2010, 01:30 PM']Yeah - I've played the CV and loved it ... a lot. I haven't found anywhere nearby that has a VMJ in stock though.[/quote] Well the VMs are prefectly respectable and really nice to play. If you got one i'm sure you'd be happy with it...but for me the CV is just a better instrument all round and if I had to choose i'd be going for either the white CV Jazz or the James Johnston (which is great BTW).

I must confess I havent played one but I remember having a conversation with Jezzaboy about one he had. It went along the lines of the bass was lovely to look and and play but the electronics are flawed due to the cheap components and it sounded pretty bad - could never get a great tone from it. What about the upcoming Squier VM Jaguar bass? You'll get the aesthetics, probably save a good bit and can then upgrade. Plus, fewer switches so less faffing around.

CV all the way. I have a CV James Johnston and a VMJ Fretless and although the VMJ is still really nice the CV is in a higher class in terms of fit, finish, sound and quality of construction. But....play em both and pick for yourself.

Well for every pedal choice there's probably a different answer to be had from each person on here, so what I mean is that pedals/effects are so subjective. Personally I like pretty high quality pedals (Fulltone, Moog, Crowther Audio, Zvex) as opposed to mass market pedals (ie Boss, Digitech) but there are a lot of considerations - cost, rig, use, etc. If i were getting into pedals for the first time (again) i'd defo be looking for a core of the following (ive tried to cover various budgets) - 1. A tuner - most important - TC Polytune, Korg Pitchblack or Peterson Strobostomp. 2. An octave - very handy for bass, my preference here is analog - Boss OC-2, EBS Octabass, EH Octave Multiplexer. 3. A dist/fuzz/overdrive - personal preference, i have a few different types but if you need to choose one to start - EH Bass Big Muff, Zvex Mastotron/Wooly Mammoth (they are different, unique in their own ways), Fulltone Bassdrive. 4. A low pass/envelope filter - Moog Moogerfooger LP Filter, Subdecay Prometheus, EH Bassballs/Q-Tron There, i've limited it to 4. Its by no means exhaustive. After those core 4 there are mods, delays and other time based effects, etc etc. Oh and get a good pedalboard and decent power supply...those are key!

[quote name='mcnach' post='937681' date='Aug 26 2010, 11:38 PM']Anybody tried that? I recently bought a bass finished in metallic blue... It's actually a greenish shade of blue, which is greener on the headstock while totally blue under the pickguard. It looks like it was kept somewhere where the sun could hit the headstock regularly. Not Scotland, then, obviously I had something like that happen with a white guitar. Within a year the side of the headstock where the sun hit it had turned creamy, there rest of the bass was white as originally. I like the greenish tinge, so I'll try to help it by leaving it on the table by the window during the day... and I am going to use a strong UV lamp on it during the night, to see what happens. I suspect the process will be so slow that I'll get bored before anything noticeable happens... I wonder if anybody has ever tried anything like this... (I should really be practicing the new stuff I've got to learn instead of thinking about the colours, eh? )[/quote] Do you know if its a nitro or poly finish? Im no expert but presumably nitro will 'age' and fade much easier whereas the poly may not.

Fun but no thanks!

I reckon the Lakland sounds like the way to go. Better get saving. I've promised myself no more basses this year so I'll go for it next year!!!

Apologies if its been asked before..... Did Fender ever make a P Bass that came with a Jazz neck? I really fancy a Precision but I much prefer the narrower neck.

[quote name='Johnston' post='936041' date='Aug 25 2010, 02:57 PM']Maybe a daft question but when you order one can you specify the neck dimensions or is it just luck of the draw?[/quote] I'm not sure, I didnt order mine. Getting a new Ric can be reasonably difficult at the best of times due to their production rates and procedures. I would be surprised, however, if you could specify a neck dimension that was outwith the current production technique (unless you are Chris Squire ) You'd be best scoping around for a second hand one and finding out the neck dimensions from the seller. They pop up on the forum reasonably regularly. Go ahead and join the club. In spite of the -well discussed - quirks, they are some of the best produced instruments in the world.

[quote name='spongebob' post='935874' date='Aug 25 2010, 12:52 PM']2009 necks became slimmer in April of that year. Early 2009 are supposed to be some of the thickest to date! The 2008's were slim - as are the 2009's after April. I've owned a 2003 (thick), a 2008 (slim), and now have a late 2009 (very slim) and a 2010 (bigger, maybe more like the 2003). Rickresource.com is a great source of info....neck size changes quite frequently, so you take your chance! Then again, one player's 'chunky' is anothers slim or medium, so it's quite a minefield which I knew nothing about until I became a Ric-only player! Only advice is before you buy (the best bass bass in the world, obviously!), do your checks first. BTW, if you got for a 4004, they're all chunky!![/quote] Well not all 2008s can be slim. Mine is defo a 2008 model and the neck is huge, its not a one-player assessment, lots have people have commented on it. Perhaps mine is the exception to the rule.

[quote name='Cairobill' post='935719' date='Aug 25 2010, 10:36 AM']Here's one aimed at the Rick specialists. Much is written out there about on the 'net about Rick 4003 dimensions varying wildly. I am keen to hook myself up with a second hand 4003 but I am basing that enthusiasm on playing an older 4003 which had a slim neck (I've gravitated to J basses with early vintage profiles after trying and owning every flavour of neck). I notice that there are Ricks out there with 'P bass type necks' i.e. thick and deep. Does anyone have a thumbnail guide for when 4003s were being made with slim necks? Or is that a can of worms? Apparently there are some well known eras of thick necks e.g. early 2009? I hope to try before I buy but it would be great if anyone has some thoughts on this. Cheers! Nick[/quote] I think these days its a bit of a crap shoot. I've played early 2009s with the slim neck but mine (a late 2008 midnight blue) has a neck like a baseball bat!

Depending on budget I reckon the best thing to do is buy a Fender Jazzmaster then get the Warmoth Strat conversion neck (its a direct swap). It'll be the closest to a Bass VI and still unique. Going to to make a point of doing this some time. Just need to find a bargain basement Jazzmaster with a broken neck!

[quote name='hillbilly deluxe' post='930897' date='Aug 20 2010, 01:36 PM']Fender Japan Jaguar Bottom Master ???? unfortunate name or what ?[/quote] The bottom master and sub-sonic strats are baritones but they are 27" scale so they wont really do E-E tuning a la Bass VI. I like em and would probably tune one to A-A but they are a different beast so to speak. CP

[quote name='BassBus' post='930423' date='Aug 19 2010, 11:26 PM']That's a lovely looking Washburn you have there. Enjoy it.[/quote] Thanks. I took the red model paint to the bridge to add a bit of pizazz to the status logo and I think its turned out really well. Can't wait to get it properly setup and playing/sounding as good as it looks!