Woodinblack

Generally a few hundred pounds, but I did buy one once for £1600, so I guess that. I did buy one for £2000, but that wasn't new. I can't imagine buying anything new at that sort of price - it would presumably have to be something custom as anything off the shelf could probably be got second hand.

Well, yes, if a preamp was designed to run at 18v then it won't be working properly at 9. in the same way as if it was designed to run at 9 it wouldn't be working well at 18, so not sure what the point there is. If it was designed to run at everything from 9 to 18 then unless it sounded exactly the same at 9 as it did at 18 it would be non functional or faulty. And sorry - but why would distortion increase if you are running a preamp at 9v? and why would a linear amplifier be compressing in the first place? what kind of a crazy preamp are we talking here, or am I missing something? There wouldn't be any compression (if it was a fet based circuit) or distotortion (if it was a transistor based circuit) unless you are getting close to its headroom. If most preamps are using something akin to an tl081/2/4 they can work up to within .6v of their supply rails, so on a 9v battery that is 3.9Vp/p, or on a 18V circuit 8.4Vp/p. what kind of pickups are you putting into this? ok, I had missed the point where you said it was an 18V only circuit, so fair enough if that is the case, yes it will need 9V. Its just something I hear very often about people having a 18V circuit for 'headroom' Are they? Which pickups are these? Passive pickups straight into an active circuit with almost no loading I guess could get higher. Maybe a big humbucker with big magnets and a lot of turns (like the old super distortion plus pickups). I guess the G&L MFD pickups go higher, and maybe the warman pickups if you really hit them.

I would also say that Lee Sklar has 18V on his as he has a separate battery for each pickup. I do like the 2 P pickup format, especially this way (the right way) round.

Is that true? I know people say it but 9v is a hell of a headroom for a signal that rarely goes past 1v peak to peak, hard to imagine such a poor design for a preamp if that is taking it anywhere near its limits. The original SR5005 preamp I had was 3V and it didn't have a problem with bass (replaced it as the treble control had failed).

never had a problem with my ibanezes (which is a surprise as I have had other electrical problems with them), although the EHBs have barrel jacks they are a very different type, and much bigger than normal - I would expect them to survive longer.

Still like my DX - don't have room for bigger and find it pretty flexible. Always wanted the organ one too, but after I got mine they started getting more expensive and I got an argon (mistake as it is too big outside, too small inside)

Not sure that is true of the switchcraft jack I got for the RST, it had big enough tags and holes in for the wire to go through.

Hell of a drive otherwise!

GLWS - I would have bought it if it was a 5 stroke

They seem, for whatever reason, a bit of a week spot. Some go on for ever, some fail really quickly. I have had to replace the one in a Spector RST (intermittent contact), which is a 2k bass that came out a year or two ago, but at the same token, my other spector is from 1990s and its barrel jack is going fine. Use a quality make, it makes no sense to use a budget barrel, Really don't get what it is about the construction that makes them so poor as the cheapest of flat jack sockets will go on for ever.

Very well done, but.. ooh, a bass solo, I guess that means the bar is open!

Mine just floats around. Often does the floating anchor thing, but sometimes just wanders across all on its own!

I had a musicman sub that was also < 17mm

I still have a TMB35. Haven't done much with it apart from fixing the electronics (which came prebuggered) which for a sub £200 bass was good. I did get some foil to shield the internals, but tbh it is only the jazz pickup that is noisy and it doesn't really bring much to the party. It is great fun to play, the string spacing is a bit wide for my preference, and the neck chunkier than I am used to, although getting used to it with the spectors. I have played it live quite a few times, it sounds good - or at least the P pickup does. I wouldn't call it particularly heavy, but it is head heavy, and could do with losing its ugly headstock (I think someone on here modded it to be headless). But it is a great bass to have around, there aren't that many short production 5 strings (I am picking up a ibanez AGB205 next week that I picked up in an auction) around, especially not at that price, which also puts it in the 'not worth selling' category which is ideal!

The ehb series (as people have mentioned) defaults to 18mm, but you can change it to make it wide, but the BTB is ibanezes wide string range, anything from the BTB range will work for you (although note that they are also 35" scale)

Something that is capable of running for 8 hours as a headphone amp isn't goiung to last that long running flat out at 50W

I had one of those. Wanted a discount. Offered him a full refund if he sent it back, turned out he didn't want to.

Literally if you have a harmonic directly over the pickup you will not have any of that harmonic in the final output, the string at that point will be effectively static. At the point of a harmonic, there is a zero input from that harmonic.

Got mine today, seems pretty solid and appears to work ok. Don't get clicking on the compressor, or scratching on the volume.

But why? is that to make your open strings quieter and counteract the fact they are normally louder? Obviously being under a harmonic will deny you any contribution of that harmonic in the output (assuming a single coil pickup), so maybe give you a deeper sound, and ok, I could get that, but that would completely change sound as soon as you fretted any note, so what is the point? Its easy to work out where the harmonics would be, but my question is why does it make it desirable that purely on open strings you remove that harmonic, but not any of the other frets?

The what harmonic though? obviously there are a whole set of harmonics, but they are only fixed for open strings, when you fret the notes the harmonics move with the frets

I have too many basses at 10 (or so), but honestly not sure which basses I would get rid of as I use them all. Actually, no I have a 4 string ibanez I don't use often, but that was one of my earliest decent basses, so I would be loathed to get rid of it. Looking around at the others, there isn't a bass I wouldn't or don't gig, so not sure. If I wasn't gigging, then maybe there were a couple I rarely play at home.

Well, I do but not to keep it a distance away from the desk, just because I have a X18 (not an XR18), and the output aux sockets are TRS plugs, so I have a number of short orange TRS plug to XLR sockets so that me and the drummer can plug into the socket (save looking round the back. My lead is a bit shorter so we know which is which, but the U4 sits on top of the mixer anyway. As you can see on the bottom right of this:

Deadpool came out - the money people got distracted and forgot where they put all the £s