Woodinblack

Do you know what the cost is? I think if it was me I would ask Andyjr1515 to do it, or one of the others around here that can

Pah, dream of only having one banner to hide every week or too!

Yeh, I had a GK 4x10 cab delivered with a massive dent in the corner and a few more impact marks. Wasn't so bad (like, wasn't a write off like that), and it got me a few quid off from thomman

I don't think she would need that for a piano?

Cant help feeling the guy on the left isn't putting the same level of effort into it there!

For entirely different reasons than the input voltage.

Why would that be incorrect? noone would make one of those that couldn't do 100-240V, otherwise you have to make several of them.

From the body of the volume (or the tone if you want), to the other end of the jack socket, ie, the bit that you can't see in your photo that you would plug into the amp.

I would do a variation on what Dad is saying for someone not that comfortable with soldering. That huge earth braided cable is the main issue, but it is soldered and absolutely certainly working as an earth. Currently too well. I would leave that cable as the earth and cut off the black wire that goes through it, on the volume, tone, switch and socket - It is probably shorted everywhere anyway, and it would be harder to unsolder. So the sheild would touch the outside of the switch, the body of the volume and tone, and a soldered connection which is your blue wire. Then run one wire from the center of the switch to the volume, and the tone, and the output to the centre of the socket. I can't really see how the volume is wired under that wiring, so I can't say what pin it goes to.

Is it the right polarity?

I wouldn't worry about the middle cable at the moment, time to get the jack sorted. In the words of the song, time to rip it up and start again! Looking at the socket from that orientation, you want one wire going from the shield of the wire to the ground of the plug. I suspect you already have that, but you should check that it buzzes from the outside of the plugged in lead to the body of one of the pots. The other lead, the white one, remove it from where it is, and it needs to go to the same wire that connects the left of the green capacitor on your tone to the volume. But the thing that may be an issue is that that blob of wires on the tone might already be shorting the output. Again, measure it with the meter. Measure between the two outside terminals of the tone. If they are shorted out (ie, it reads 0), turn the volume the other way and try again. If it still reads 0 then the cable is shorted somewhere in that sheild soldering.

No switched mode power supply produced in the last 20 years should have any issues between 220 and 240v, they are designed for much bigger variations than that. I would also be very surprised if you could find a valve amp that was that senstive to that change either - partly because new ones were built to cope with 110 / 220 or 240, and old ones were designed to cope with whatever crazy voltage you had in your local areas as it used to be very different. it wasn't until the 60s that some areas stopped having DC.

Well, it isn't, you can still buy them direct, just was showing it as an option.

The old ones were in bassdirect for just over £300 - I am sure the new ones will be too when they are updated

No, they are generally fairly robust, but that wiring has been made fragile. So yes, stick a jack in the socket and buzz out across the sleve and tip of the other end, with the volume full up (and I am not sure what sort of wiring it has) there should be a non zero resistance (ie, more than a few k) between the two. If there is a short between the two, remove the black wire where the tone connects the output jack and run another wire between the two.

Yes, that is what I was refering to - it looks shorted. That black wire has been overheated quite a bit (why the insulation is breaking down) and could touch the metal shield. I don't mean the blue wire, that is the earth wire connected to the shield. I know you didn't do it, but you took the bass apart and it looks like an accident waiting to happen, so actually just moving it may have been enough. Obviously you can never fully tell with a picture, but it is worth redoing if you can. I am guessing you haven't got a meter or anything?

Fender players are fender players, if its not got fender on the label they won't change, which is fine, but it isn't a market anyone is going for. I have never labeled the Dingwals as metal basses, apart from maybe the NG2, as I tend to associate them with artists like Lee Sklar / Tony Levin (along with stingrays and sticks) / John Taylor (along with Arias!)

I would suspect that as he posted that 2.5 years ago, he has either done it or given up

With what I can see I would say that almost certainly the jack socket hot is shorted to the sheild, and that is more likely to be your problem.

Were you aware that the Mzk truss rods turned the other way to normal ones?

The only thing I can see is that maybe the centre of that switch has become shorted to one of the wires where the insulation is gone - certainly could be by the last photos, but that wouldn't produce the symptoms you are saying. Considering the sound with the jack etc, is it possible that while you are looking at the switch and making assumptions that as that is the only thing you changed, that must be the fault (which is reasonable), maybe by taking it apart, the wire in the jack socket became disconnected or something, or some other issue further down was caused? Actually looking at the last photo, did you solder the earth of the pickups to the earth of that cable going through, as if you did it might have melted the insulation inside the metal shield, which would produce the same results.

It is amazing how bad the pictures are on some even quite expensive items. I am not sure there is an excuse for bad pictures and if I see them I assume they are trying to hide stuff

As I mentioned in a previous post, that was a typo for class D

I think now it has been superseded by just modelling the amp you want and going into the PA.

I would suspect that straight frets will always be standard. Most people haven't got away from the 1950s P bass, its 70 years to the fan frets!